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Welded Frame, Bike wont start.
- Thread starter nikiforova
- Start date
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
Yeah I definitely blew an ignition fuse or two yesterday. Got ‘em replaced this morning and it was getting 12 volts then all the sudden it’s reading 8-8.5. Ive been thinking about switching to inline fuses to get away from this bulky fuse box. Would yall recommend that? Also, is there a chance the gonzo is fried because of how I had it wired?
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
Im working on tracing it back now. Im about up to the coil. I dont think ive come across any connections so far? maybe ive missed them in this heap of wires. It sorta hurts my brain to look at.
I did call around and theres a local(ish) mechanic who works on older bikes. He said he might have a few stock tci's hanging around from bikes hes parted out. Just needs to make sure and then test them. If im unable to figure this out with yalls help I may bring it to him. Electrical work was one of the big things I didnt want to find myself too deep into. Im going back to school in the coming weeks and I was hoping to have this bike set up for then. Its a real shame to think that all I had to do was unplug the TCI and the other electronics and she'd probably be up and running. Lesson learned, consult the forums before doing work.
Edit: Looking back at the wiring diagram you provided, It seems that coming out of the fuse box one of the two r/w wires goes straight to the handlebar switch with what looks like no connections and the changes to brown with a few connections before landing at the main switch. Should I be more focused on tracing the r/w to br and testing each one of those connections? Where abouts does that wire change to br?
The gonzo could be damaged. I'd get another ordered - good to have a spare anyway.
The only issue with the fuse box is the clips can get weak if been hot and glass fuses. Current available boxes with blade fuses are larger. Inline is an option if issues develop. All will blow if wires not right
The kill switch and fuse box are points of interest to see where voltage is going. I can go quicker - didn't want to overwhelm ya
I can walk through hot jumper if needed.
All your call
The only issue with the fuse box is the clips can get weak if been hot and glass fuses. Current available boxes with blade fuses are larger. Inline is an option if issues develop. All will blow if wires not right
The kill switch and fuse box are points of interest to see where voltage is going. I can go quicker - didn't want to overwhelm ya
I can walk through hot jumper if needed.
All your call
Also, the only TCI igniters - that I know of that will work - is what you have and $800 for new original or 82-83 used if can find - probably 80-81, but connector different (6 pin)
Should've said before - Tip: to trace power, I like to ground black probe in gas tank back mount hole (mid-bike) and jam something to hold it there, then you can poke connectors with red probe around the bike to verify voltage.
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
Cool Im going to get another Gonzo ordered asap. I have another stock fuse box coming in the mail tomorrow or monday. Mine is honestly shot tbh, the main fuse holder is loose and the headlight fuse holder is non existent. hopefully that will help in terms of holding voltage. I appreciate you not overwhelming me. Do you know whereabouts the wire from the fuse to the main switch changes from r/w to br?
Yeah im not sure how much he'll charge if he has one. He said that if he has some that they'd be from the late models because those are what he parted out. Im going to be dropping off my old tci tomorrow and hes going to check if hes got the exact one or a 6 pin.
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
This is actually exactly what ive been doing! Its like that mount hole was made for tracing power. Cant think of anything else it would do!!
Not sure.
I'll be in front of my computer tomorrow afternoon.
Maybe... emphasis on maybe... I can be more helpful
Maybe... emphasis on maybe... I can be more helpful
Still not had time to read through this
But I hear talk of buying a third Ignition Box .. that sounds wrong to me
You don't keep on replacing a light bulb at home 3 times if the lights don't come on.
Electronics can fry the regulators do if connected wrongly. So it can happen.
And as a ground rule ..the cheapest simplest first .. you save money and often find the fault quicker
Apologize if I have missed something here .But I am still at pulling separate wires ground and power
Thus eliminating other causes .And then after that consider new Hardware.
Might be there at the end that a new box is needed ,but after other checks
I don't know the Gonzo but Mr Jim does.
If the 12 V and ground is not there . I cant see any point in buying a third Box in fact the Stock one can still be OK
Since that is what is called a Control experiment methodically.
Box 1 did not spark
Box 2 did not spark either
--> Then there is a clear Possibility the first Box can be good
I Would provably insert the stock Box 1 and again ..try to ensure that 12 V and Ground is there at the relevant pins
And start looking for a Spark
One advantage with the stock setup is that there exists ..fault finding instructions and service manuals online
fex there
https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/01/10/xs650-manuals/
Again apologize if I am off I have not read it and wont get time as i Looks now ..
But I hear talk of buying a third Ignition Box .. that sounds wrong to me
You don't keep on replacing a light bulb at home 3 times if the lights don't come on.
Electronics can fry the regulators do if connected wrongly. So it can happen.
And as a ground rule ..the cheapest simplest first .. you save money and often find the fault quicker
Apologize if I have missed something here .But I am still at pulling separate wires ground and power
Thus eliminating other causes .And then after that consider new Hardware.
Might be there at the end that a new box is needed ,but after other checks
I don't know the Gonzo but Mr Jim does.
If the 12 V and ground is not there . I cant see any point in buying a third Box in fact the Stock one can still be OK
Since that is what is called a Control experiment methodically.
Box 1 did not spark
Box 2 did not spark either
--> Then there is a clear Possibility the first Box can be good
I Would provably insert the stock Box 1 and again ..try to ensure that 12 V and Ground is there at the relevant pins
And start looking for a Spark
One advantage with the stock setup is that there exists ..fault finding instructions and service manuals online
fex there
https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/01/10/xs650-manuals/
Again apologize if I am off I have not read it and wont get time as i Looks now ..
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
Sorry for asking for clarification so many times, I am still a bit confused..
Ive highlighted the three r/w that I believe I should be tracking down. The only one with black dots to represent connections is the one highlighted in orange. It begins at the fuse box, changes to brown, then makes its way to the main switch. Is that correct? Where should I check for power lost in the other two wires?
I understand what youre getting at. Im down to give a shot at running a second battery wired to the TCI/Gonzo and trying for spark. Is there a way to further isolate the reg if that may be the problem? Im interested in that as well.
Attachments
You can just unplug the voltage regulator. "for testing purposes"
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
If i unplug it and try to turn the bike over could this cause a spike in voltage and hurt my electronics? Im at the point where I have 4 things I want to try.
1. Track down where im losing power.
2. Ensure my wiring to the gonzo is correct.
3. Jump the Gonzo
4. Isolate Gonzo or Regulator
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
Okay this is where I’m at this morning: the gonzo is not getting enough power, however, there is no power being lost from the ignition fuse to the tci harness on my bike. Once I plug into the gonzo harness I experience a 2 volt drop.
Voltmeters, VOMs have their place, but I do more of my testing with a turnsignal bulb with alligator clips.
the bulb doesn't light, there's a break somewhere,
the bulb lights but is dim, there's a bad connection frayed wire etc. in the circuit
the bulb lights BRIGHTLY I have a good SOLID 12 volts and I need to look elsewhere.
The white wire taped to the bulb is just a hook to hang it somewhere convenient.
This rig has found and fixed more problems than 90% of the voltmeters in the world. ;^)
the bulb doesn't light, there's a break somewhere,
the bulb lights but is dim, there's a bad connection frayed wire etc. in the circuit
the bulb lights BRIGHTLY I have a good SOLID 12 volts and I need to look elsewhere.
The white wire taped to the bulb is just a hook to hang it somewhere convenient.
This rig has found and fixed more problems than 90% of the voltmeters in the world. ;^)
nikiforova
XS650 Addict
I like this. Ill have to give it a go. My current readings are pretty not great
-Battery 12.33
-ignition fuse 11.67
-Coil 11.67
-Power to harness 11.67
However, both the coil and harness volts drop once they are plugged in. I guess its time to clean/replace those terminals and their connectors
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