Welding thread

I spent the last 17 years of my working career in the metal fabrication welding industry. I regret that in all those years I never learned to weld. It was easier for me to take my projects to the shop and get one of the pro’s to weld it up for me. Fast forward to a couple a years ago. I went and bought a nice welder for home use. It’s a Lincoln 210MP and its capable of MIG, stick and Tig (but not for aluminum). It’s been sitting pretty on a stand without any use. I meant to take a course in welding but with the onset of Covid, all classes were cancelled.

Just before Christmas last year, a local college had advertised on line that they were offering an “Introduction to welding” course. I jumped on the opportunity right away and signed up. Pleasant surprise it was free! 5 weeks, 2 days per week, 8 hours per day. The course would focus on stick and mig.
The first two days were slow but now we’re actually burning some welding rod (2 weeks stick then 2 weeks Mig).

Cant agree more with the need to practice, practice, practice. For many of the students in the course, they will learn the basics, but not use it again for a long time, because they dont have the equipment. Once I’m finished I need to keep at it to improve my skill level by practicing at home. Once I feel comfortable with the basics of Mig, I may look into a Tig course in the future.
@bosco659 welding is one of those things that’s easier learned by doing. That’s not to say that there’s no value I taking an online course, quite the contrary. Any and all info you can get will make you a better welder but there is no replacement for striking an arc and burning up steel. Covid has definitely created some serious obstacles when it comes to teaching the industrial arts. I honestly don’t find myself doing much MiG welding as opposed to TIG and brazing. But that’s mostly in the repair and restoration side of things. Sadly my MiG welder
 
Nice work Rustie! You have steady hands. Practice indeed is so important and being calm and comfortable is key. I run a small welding supply company in Victoria, and worked for Lincoln Electric for 9 years until I left in 2017 to start what I'm doing now. I've been in the industry since 1988 so have seen a lot of cool things over the years, and welded with most processes except laser. I am not a ticketed welder though.
So many machines are available these days to purchase, and many of them like that Power Mig 210mp, are multi-process capable. They have automatic settings to make it easier to use in the hands of users not so proficient with understanding how to set them up properly (with respect to anyone using them). In general, there are less skilled welders available in the industry so the manufacturers make machines to work better in the hands of less skilled operators.
 
Nice work Rustie! You have steady hands. Practice indeed is so important and being calm and comfortable is key. I run a small welding supply company in Victoria, and worked for Lincoln Electric for 9 years until I left in 2017 to start what I'm doing now. I've been in the industry since 1988 so have seen a lot of cool things over the years, and welded with most processes except laser. I am not a ticketed welder though.
So many machines are available these days to purchase, and many of them like that Power Mig 210mp, are multi-process capable. They have automatic settings to make it easier to use in the hands of users not so proficient with understanding how to set them up properly (with respect to anyone using them). In general, there are less skilled welders available in the industry so the manufacturers make machines to work better in the hands of less skilled operators.
Hi Van Isl., my 210MP is still under factory warranty. Do you recommend I buy the extended warranty? It’s a couple of years old now and hasn’t been used yet. Factory warranty was 3 years iirc.
 
Bosco, I don't think it's necessary. Generally, those 210mp machines don't have many warranty problems. The Square Wave Tig 200, on the other hand, should be avoided. I do recommend you use it though before the 3 years, just to be certain. You can use it without shielding gas with the innershield wire supplied to make sure it's ok. You can also stick weld with it. If it stick welds it should Tig weld.
 
Bosco, I don't think it's necessary. Generally, those 210mp machines don't have many warranty problems. The Square Wave Tig 200, on the other hand, should be avoided. I do recommend you use it though before the 3 years, just to be certain. You can use it without shielding gas with the innershield wire supplied to make sure it's ok. You can also stick weld with it. If it stick welds it should Tig weld.
Ok thx. I’ll fire it up in the next couple of weeks. I think I bought it March 2020 So it’s coming up on its 2nd birthday.
 
@bosco659 welding is one of those things that’s easier learned by doing. That’s not to say that there’s no value I taking an online course, quite the contrary. Any and all info you can get will make you a better welder but there is no replacement for striking an arc and burning up steel. Covid has definitely created some serious obstacles when it comes to teaching the industrial arts. I honestly don’t find myself doing much MiG welding as opposed to TIG and brazing. But that’s mostly in the repair and restoration side of things. Sadly my MiG welder
Over the last couple of weeks I was practicing stick welding and put in about 20 hours of burning rod. Surprised how much I improved in that short of time. Next week will be another day of stick practice (flat and horizontal) then a few weeks of MIG. Enjoying this course immensely and would never get this much instruction and practice time at home messing around by myself.
 
VFT Today.:thumbsup:
02Feb04-MillerWelder.jpg
 
Over the last couple of weeks I was practicing stick welding and put in about 20 hours of burning rod. Surprised how much I improved in that short of time. Next week will be another day of stick practice (flat and horizontal) then a few weeks of MIG. Enjoying this course immensely and would never get this much instruction and practice time at home messing around by myself.
Samples of a couple of practice weld beads. 3/32 7014 rod. Getting better, but my MIG welding isn't as consistent yet.

42464A3C-31E8-4D68-B9E0-A44C7275DF7D.jpeg
 
Stick welding of a cast iron Urn ?

I now have an inverter weld that can weld sticks of a little larger diameter
I can buy cast iron electrodes

https://www.biltema.se/en-se/tools/...es/electrode-for-cast-iron-eni-ci--2000046174

A lady asked me if I could repair a garden Urn looking like about that .. It fell over in a storm and it broke separated at the
smallest diameter
It is hollow where it broke --- and the wall thickness ca 8 - 10 mm
It does not have any loads on it unless accidents .. I am not up to quality in stick welding these days but if it was steel I could do it
I would insert small metal round wire in the crack getting a little distance for penetration . And tack it
And then go for it not getting it perfect .. But perhaps good enough .
Please share experiences of these sticks. and / or other methods chemicals or other ways to do it.



1646337657638.png
 
I used to have to weld cracks in cast iron cylinder heads. Here's the standard drill used....
Use a torch to preheat the entire part. Don't recall the temperature exact, but about 600°f sticks in my head.
Wire brush the crack just before welding.
Use a nickel silver rod to weld the crack and immediately put the torch back on it, gradually reducing the heat evenly over the entire part.
 
Stick welding of a cast iron Urn ?

I now have an inverter weld that can weld sticks of a little larger diameter
I can buy cast iron electrodes

https://www.biltema.se/en-se/tools/...es/electrode-for-cast-iron-eni-ci--2000046174

A lady asked me if I could repair a garden Urn looking like about that .. It fell over in a storm and it broke separated at the
smallest diameter
It is hollow where it broke --- and the wall thickness ca 8 - 10 mm
It does not have any loads on it unless accidents .. I am not up to quality in stick welding these days but if it was steel I could do it
I would insert small metal round wire in the crack getting a little distance for penetration . And tack it
And then go for it not getting it perfect .. But perhaps good enough .
Please share experiences of these sticks. and / or other methods chemicals or other ways to do it.



View attachment 208909
If I were to do it, I would braze it. But as Jim Said no matter how you do it pre-heating is key.
 
If I were to do it, I would braze it. But as Jim Said no matter how you do it pre-heating is key.

Thank You
Yes I suppose you gentlemen are right .but the location is such that there is no Acetylene torch nearby.
Making preheating nor Brazing .. that simple to do --as to take he inverter on the shoulder strap.
Being " Traveling repair Man " standing on the knees doing it in the garden .
Have to ask around if there is a shop . And ask the lady if it is so important
a replacement is around $ 400
 
Generally you will want to use a 99% nickel rod and stress relieve the weld after by peening. You may need to chamfer each side of the area to be welded so you're not putting a bead just on the top of the surface. Small short welds would be better than long continuous welds. (Space the welds out to avoid excessive localized heat input) You could cover the piece with a fire proof blanket to allow slow cooling after welding.
 
Generally you will want to use a 99% nickel rod and stress relieve the weld after by peening. You may need to chamfer each side of the area to be welded so you're not putting a bead just on the top of the surface. Small short welds would be better than long continuous welds. (Space the welds out to avoid excessive localized heat input) You could cover the piece with a fire proof blanket to allow slow cooling after welding.

Thank you Sir
Whats your view on the preheating... I have seen online that some cast iron can be welded without preheating.
Which in this case would save time and problems. .Can do it without moving the object .. The Welding inverter is small and much easier to move.
I do have a small Propane torch but I don't think it is sufficient .. More for a spot on a rusted bolt or so
I have the possibility to put a backing ( Sheet metal tube or so ) on the inside since it is hollow and broken into 2 pieces.
I was thinking to separate a bit when tacking 2 - 3 mm or so ..getting the weld into the slot so to speak.

The fire proof blanket is a good advice not heard of that before That I can remember.
 
Preheat is done for many reasons but in this case the goal is to reduce the potential for rapid temperature change of the cast iron, which will lead to cracking after the weld, especially if it is quenched after the weld. In many cases, the slow cooling is more important than the pre-heat. I think your propane torch is sufficient and you can warm the local area until its too hot to touch. Its not that thick at 10 mm, so should heat quickly. Some sort of a heat sync on the back side could be helpful, but did you plan to weld both sides?
The problem with cast iron is you never know the composition of the material and usually things like garden urns are made of garbage material and could or will contain elements which don't like to be welded like sulphur. It is a difficult task for many welders so don't be hard on yourself if it doesn't work out well. At least you're giving it a go for this lady. :thumbsup:
 
All the responses are quite accurate, Iron is prone to cracking if it cools too quickly as the metal applied will shrink pulling it apart from the base metal.
Also grind out the end of the crack, like stop drilling cracked plexiglass.
You can also braze it with a torch if you have the experience, though it's no longer a popular welding method, and it will not be as crack prone
 
I have had great success Tig welding cast iron. I don't usually use the normal method of preheating and all that. I start by die grinding the crack. Just to open it up just a bit and give me some cleaner metal to weld to. I then take a nickel stick electrode and knock all the flux off and chuck it up in a drill and clean it with a bit of Scotch Brite. Next, Tig it up as you normally would, then when it's all welded up, wrap it up tightly in a welding blanket or leather welding jacket and let it cool on its own

I know it's not the conventional way of doing it but it's held up well for me. I worked in a custom fab shop that would take I'm a lot of repair work. The vast majority of those customers were farmers who had broken a piece off their tractor. More often then not it would be a cast iron piece. Never had one come back.
 
Back
Top