WELSH FLAT TRACK REVIVAL

Regarding the Motogadget M-Unit; it is designed for most inputs to provide a ground signal (except “Ignition Lock”). That is opposite the general wiring on stock harness. It will be easier to start from scratch and make your own harness/loom.

It does replace all fuses and relays with the exception of the starter relay. Basic Schematic attached.

A benefit of the Motogadget system is for handlebar buttons signal to be combined on a single wire to the M-Unit, but that requires the addition of the “M-Button” (~$55USD).

Thanks JP for the input and wiring info, much appreciated.
Earlier in this thread you will find I have indeed bought an M-Button, along with a full M-Gadget wire kit and other M-Goodies; plus other lovely stuff from Cognito & Revival. I’m a sucker for jumping in feet first. Started out with just handlebar end indicators, and got suckered into a full overhaul. When will I ever learn?
 
Can't really tell from the pic how it mounts or what it holds?
hello @Jim
Extra pictures ref my broken off frame tab.
IMG_1679.jpeg
IMG_1680.jpeg


The tab should be attached to the upper frame rail. The second image shows the other three attached.
It could be welded back in place but I'm worried the heat will damage the frame finish either side?
The tray plate is made of aluminium which screws into the captive thread on the frame.
I could attempt to brass braze the tab back (lower temps than welding); or use JB Weld.
Appreciate your advice.
Ads.
 
hello @Jim
Extra pictures ref my broken off frame tab.
View attachment 217519 View attachment 217520

The tab should be attached to the upper frame rail. The second image shows the other three attached.
It could be welded back in place but I'm worried the heat will damage the frame finish either side?
The tray plate is made of aluminium which screws into the captive thread on the frame.
I could attempt to brass braze the tab back (lower temps than welding); or use JB Weld.
Appreciate your advice.
Ads.
OK, I see it now. I doubt JB Weld will last long in that application. And welding or brazing both are gonna damage the paint.
What would you think of using an adel clamp there instead of the tab?
If it were me, I'd remove all 3 other tabs and use 4 adel clamps. Reason being... it'll give your electrics a slight amount of vibration isolation. Here's a pic of what I'm suggesting. Yes, that's an aircraft application, but I've seen it done on bikes too. You can actually make it look quiet professional.... without all the heat and bother of welding.



1656429057635.png
 
OK, I see it now. I doubt JB Weld will last long in that application. And welding or brazing both are gonna damage the paint.
What would you think of using an adel clamp there instead of the tab?
If it were me, I'd remove all 3 other tabs and use 4 adel clamps. Reason being... it'll give your electrics a slight amount of vibration isolation. Here's a pic of what I'm suggesting. Yes, that's an aircraft application, but I've seen it done on bikes too. You can actually make it look quiet professional.... without all the heat and bother of welding.



View attachment 217530
OK, I see it now. I doubt JB Weld will last long in that application. And welding or brazing both are gonna damage the paint.
What would you think of using an adel clamp there instead of the tab?
If it were me, I'd remove all 3 other tabs and use 4 adel clamps. Reason being... it'll give your electrics a slight amount of vibration isolation. Here's a pic of what I'm suggesting. Yes, that's an aircraft application, but I've seen it done on bikes too. You can actually make it look quiet professional.... without all the heat and bother of welding.



View attachment 217530
Thanks Jim,
you really are a font of knowledge; and we are all very greatfull.
Don’t know where I’ll get those clamps, but I will search now.
Cheers, as always.
Adam. :thumbsup:
 
PHASE 2 THE REWIRE BEGINS

I have now assembled most of what is needed for the rewire and M-Unit installation.
I also purchased a few quality tools that I did not own such as IWISS Crimpers / Wire Stripping / Ferrule Crimpers.
My Dads 50 year old mains plug-in soldering iron whilst still functional has its limitations. So I invested in this:

DREMELL SOLDER KIT.PNG

A butane powered soldering tool of great versatility. Its also easy to use around the bike due to not having a lead to drag around. Having used this for the past two days I can highly recommend it.

The other items I have bought are MOLEX MIZU P-25 Waterproof Mini-Connectors in various sizes:
MIZU P25 Connectore Image.PNG
CONNECTOR COMPARISON.jpeg


As you can see above the size comparison allows easier positioning for joints that need to be separated; or routed through confined areas.
For example I have used these on the M-Gadget Blaze Handle bar Indicators. It means in the future I can disassemble the flashers without having to de-wire the whole internal handlebar loom (If it was hard wired you would have to). Again highly recommended.

Now onto the rewire.
I had previously removed all the handlebar controls & grips and offered up the M-Gadget indicator to the bar end.
Imagine my surprise when the indicator wouldn't fit down the bar end! The 14mm ID was short on depth.
IMG_1681.jpeg
IMG_1684.jpeg
IMG_1685.jpeg
IMG_1683.jpeg


I had to buy a new 14mm HSS bit to fit my drill. For some reason they are called Blacksmiths Bits when over 12mm?
Bar ends were drilled out to the maximum depth the drill bit would go; in order to accommodate not only the indicator assembly but also the M-Gadget Mo.Button. Other holes were drilled into the bars in accordance with M-Gadget instructions. This does mean re-installing all the handle bar furniture and Revival Momentary switches to mark out the holes for the internal wiring.
Then set about it with the Auto-Hole punch (Brilliant tool) and 6mm drill bit.
IMG_1686.jpeg
IMG_1687.jpeg

As usual always use a little cutting fluid when drilling metalwork.

Once all holes were de-burred (another new tool) and swarf blown out of the bars the wiring could begin.
Now if you intend on doing this yourself allow plenty of time because its is a real FAF! (Fuc*ing Awkward Fiddle!)
My eyesight is not what it was in my twenties; and finger dexterity has also suffered to an extent. Coupled with the Revival terminals in the switches you need a watchmakers patience and skill. Yes the air was blue at times. Using some thin solid wire makes the process of poking the various wires through a little easier.....but its still frustrating! Then if you follow M-gadgets wiring plan you have to get half of the M-Buttons wires across to the other side of the bars to reach the other switch cluster.
Only to find the wires are too short to reach through and across my tacker bars! So strip it all out again and re-think.

I didn't want to extend the wires, so I decided to put the M-Button in the bottom center of the bars, and splay the wires out to each end. I created an elongated hole in the lower section of the bars, and drilled a hole through the top yoke to feed the green 'can-bus' wire and common ground wire, together with the front indicator feeds, back to the M-Unit located under the seat. The elongated hole allowed me to push the M-Button up into the bars. Tip here, connect all the grounds together, it makes sense and means only one ground wire exiting the bars.

IMG_1731.JPEG
IMG_1736.JPEG


During this process I also fabricated and fitted a bracket to hold the M-Gadget Speedometer.


IMG_1740.JPEG


IMG_1742.JPEG


IMG_1746.JPEG


IMG_1744.JPEG


Once the kit was installed I tested how it worked by rigging up a power feed and ignition feed to the M-Unit; not forgetting the ground. The M-Unit went thorough it auto-check procedure and looked ready to go. Press a button on the bars and....Nothing!
Checked the other side switches and.....Nothing! Lots of swearing and pulling out my hair! Calm down have a cup of tea then come back and check all connections again. I did find a weak joint on the ground wire; re-soldered and back to the buttons. Bloody hell everything is working.

Capture.PNG


When you step back and look at the bars in their wire free minimalist state you do notice other things. The main one for me is how UGLY :poo: the brake reservoir looks. I hadn't really given it a second look before; but it has to go and be changed for something far better.

What I did learn is that the M-Unit is sensitive. All connections MUST be secure and especially any ground connections.
Having good quality tools made a big difference to the installation and the enjoyment in doing it; compared to the cheapo wire strippers I used to use (now scrapped). A selection of Tweezers and prongs also aid in pulling the wires through little holes.
Do not underestimate the time it takes to do this.

Next job is to finish the ancillary wires to lights and the speedo' unit Etc.... Then on to the Ignition part of this system.

All the best
Ads. :devil:🏴
 

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PHASE 2 THE REWIRE BEGINS

I have now assembled most of what is needed for the rewire and M-Unit installation.
I also purchased a few quality tools that I did not own such as IWISS Crimpers / Wire Stripping / Ferrule Crimpers.
My Dads 50 year old mains plug-in soldering iron whilst still functional has its limitations. So I invested in this:

View attachment 220386
A butane powered soldering tool of great versatility. Its also easy to use around the bike due to not having a lead to drag around. Having used this for the past two days I can highly recommend it.

The other items I have bought are MOLEX MIZU P-25 Waterproof Mini-Connectors in various sizes:
View attachment 220387View attachment 220388

As you can see above the size comparison allows easier positioning for joints that need to be separated; or routed through confined areas.
For example I have used these on the M-Gadget Blaze Handle bar Indicators. It means in the future I can disassemble the flashers without having to de-wire the whole internal handlebar loom (If it was hard wired you would have to). Again highly recommended.

Now onto the rewire.
I had previously removed all the handlebar controls & grips and offered up the M-Gadget indicator to the bar end.
Imagine my surprise when the indicator wouldn't fit down the bar end! The 14mm ID was short on depth.
View attachment 220389 View attachment 220390 View attachment 220391 View attachment 220392

I had to buy a new 14mm HSS bit to fit my drill. For some reason they are called Blacksmiths Bits when over 12mm?
Bar ends were drilled out to the maximum depth the drill bit would go; in order to accommodate not only the indicator assembly but also the M-Gadget Mo.Button. Other holes were drilled into the bars in accordance with M-Gadget instructions. This does mean re-installing all the handle bar furniture and Revival Momentary switches to mark out the holes for the internal wiring.
Then set about it with the Auto-Hole punch (Brilliant tool) and 6mm drill bit.
View attachment 220393 View attachment 220394
As usual always use a little cutting fluid when drilling metalwork.

Once all holes were de-burred (another new tool) and swarf blown out of the bars the wiring could begin.
Now if you intend on doing this yourself allow plenty of time because its is a real FAF! (Fuc*ing Awkward Fiddle!)
My eyesight is not what it was in my twenties; and finger dexterity has also suffered to an extent. Coupled with the Revival terminals in the switches you need a watchmakers patience and skill. Yes the air was blue at times. Using some thin solid wire makes the process of poking the various wires through a little easier.....but its still frustrating! Then if you follow M-gadgets wiring plan you have to get half of the M-Buttons wires across to the other side of the bars to reach the other switch cluster.
Only to find the wires are too short to reach through and across my tacker bars! So strip it all out again and re-think.

I didn't want to extend the wires, so I decided to put the M-Button in the bottom center of the bars, and splay the wires out to each end. I created an elongated hole in the lower section of the bars, and drilled a hole through the top yoke to feed the green 'can-bus' wire and common ground wire, together with the front indicator feeds, back to the M-Unit located under the seat. The elongated hole allowed me to push the M-Button up into the bars. Tip here, connect all the grounds together, it makes sense and means only one ground wire exiting the bars.

View attachment 220397View attachment 220398

During this process I also fabricated and fitted a bracket to hold the M-Gadget Speedometer.


View attachment 220403

View attachment 220404

View attachment 220405

View attachment 220406

Once the kit was installed I tested how it worked by rigging up a power feed and ignition feed to the M-Unit; not forgetting the ground. The M-Unit went thorough it auto-check procedure and looked ready to go. Press a button on the bars and....Nothing!
Checked the other side switches and.....Nothing! Lots of swearing and pulling out my hair! Calm down have a cup of tea then come back and check all connections again. I did find a weak joint on the ground wire; re-soldered and back to the buttons. Bloody hell everything is working.

View attachment 220407

When you step back and look at the bars in their wire free minimalist state you do notice other things. The main one for me is how UGLY :poo: the brake reservoir looks. I hadn't really given it a second look before; but it has to go and be changed for something far better.

What I did learn is that the M-Unit is sensitive. All connections MUST be secure and especially any ground connections.
Having good quality tools made a big difference to the installation and the enjoyment in doing it; compared to the cheapo wire strippers I used to use (now scrapped). A selection of Tweezers and prongs also aid in pulling the wires through little holes.
Don not underestimate the time it takes to do this.

Next job is to finish the ancillary wires to lights and the speedo' unit Etc.... Then on to the Ignition part of this system.

All the best
Ads. :devil:🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿
Keep up the details as I'm about to start mine soon. I have to find where to mount 2 coils & 2 ignition units as I'm running a Vape 277 setup.
 
Keep up the details as I'm about to start mine soon. I have to find where to mount 2 coils & 2 ignition units as I'm running a Vape 277 setup.
No worries Dunc. I will continue this build thread until it completed to my aims. I hope your system works out well.
 
Simply superb Adam!
Like you, my M-button ended-up mid-bar (figured easier to retrieve if needed).

Dunc - I have that system mounted on frame backbone (albeit aftermarket frame); if you have a thread going I can post some pics there.
 
View attachment 220406

When you step back and look at the bars in their wire free minimalist state you do notice other things. The main one for me is how UGLY :poo: the brake reservoir looks. I hadn't really given it a second look before; but it has to go and be changed for something far better.

You need a nice ISR m/c with integrated reservoir.

1659200695358.png
 
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