WELSH FLAT TRACK REVIVAL

Yeh, but you are worth it! :D
Yes Max, I am not worth it, but my bike is. If business was better and Adolf Putin wasn’t Willey waving in Ukraine:heart: I would have probably closed my eyes and pressed the buy button. Sadly business is crap, and I’m now on a budget!
 
Adam, a lot of folks in the stunt community remove it entirely and use just a short section of tube with a plug on top. While not necessarily the cleanest solution, it may be a bit tidier for you than what you have currently, while costing you next to nothing. Worth a shot to atleast test it out, worst case is you’re back to square one.
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Adam, a lot of folks in the stunt community remove it entirely and use just a short section of tube with a plug on top. While not necessarily the cleanest solution, it may be a bit tidier for you than what you have currently, while costing you next to nothing. Worth a shot to atleast test it out, worst case is you’re back to square one.
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Hey JessesS, thanks for the sympathy and idea. I’m not yet on the breadline and may buy something from Rizoma for about £80 - £100.
I just thought £300 - £400 for one lever a stretch too far. My Nissin levers are nice and adjustable, just the fluid reservoir looks shite now it’s so exposed.
 
Pics of Omar's fender and seat per request. Fender front mount bolt is using stock tank mount frame bung. Rear fender mount is using simple custom bracket attached to stock frame crossmember. Lots of obligatory foam and rubber to insulate fiberglass fender. Two inch Velcro attached to seat and fender per Omars'. Surprisingly secure; doesn't move while riding and takes a hard steady pull, from rear to remove seat.
 

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Pics of Omar's fender and seat per request. Fender front mount bolt is using stock tank mount frame bung. Rear fender mount is using simple custom bracket attached to stock frame crossmember. Lots of obligatory foam and rubber to insulate fiberglass fender. Two inch Velcro attached to seat and fender per Omars'. Surprisingly secure; doesn't move while riding and takes a hard steady pull, from rear to remove seat.
Thanks so much JP. I see the seat pad is Velcro fixed to the seat mold.
It won’t solve my problem, but has given me some ideas.
I will tumble this in my mind and hopefully come up with something suitable..
Cheers,
Ads.
 
Pics of Omar's fender and seat per request. Fender front mount bolt is using stock tank mount frame bung. Rear fender mount is using simple custom bracket attached to stock frame crossmember. Lots of obligatory foam and rubber to insulate fiberglass fender. Two inch Velcro attached to seat and fender per Omars'. Surprisingly secure; doesn't move while riding and takes a hard steady pull, from rear to remove seat.
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Sorry for the mess but following @jpdevol I wanted to show another Omar's instal. This is a pic from after Reserve Light Unit burned and the fire extinguisher dry powder is everywhere but youcan see the fabbed seat/tailsection base in this picture. This on a 77D. Since cleaned up but I never got a picture.
 
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View attachment 221008Sorry for the mess but following @jpdevol I wanted to show another Omar's instal. This is a pic from after Reserve Light Unit burned and the fire extinguisher dry powder is everywhere but youcan see the fabbed seat/tailsection base in this picture. This on a 77D. Since cleaned up but I never got a picture.
Cool, Thanks TW. More info for my mind to ponder.
 
WIRES WIRES EVERYWHERE.......And other bits and bobs.

So the Motor gadget M-Unit install has been completed; apart form a little final tidy up.
Following the wiring diagrams from Revival, M-Gadget & XS650 1980 from this site.
I am pleased overall that I did this job, especially considering I have never tackled a full 'from scratch' re-wire before.
Difficulties did arise such as the bar ends not accepting the M-Gadget indicator units. I had to drill out these to the maximum depth of my drill bit.
Also the M-Button had to be relocated to the center of the bars; normally placed at one end behind the indicator unit, as the M-Button captive wires were too short for my bars. More drilling and mods to the bar to accommodate this.

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All cables were then run back to the M-Unit under the seat. The Motor Gadget Speedo wires back under the tank.
Got everything roughly connected up to the M-Unit for a test. Blimey everything worked as it should!
So wires were cut to final lengths and all wrapped up with nice Revival cable wrap. I did find out that the supplied 'Ferrules' for the wire ends didn't hold securely with the M-Unit ports, so reverted to bare wire which was better.

Wiring the various feeds to the M-Gadget Speedo connector block was a fiddle; especially using standard gauge auto wires. But then I found cable for security alarms, which are colored multi-strand, and cased in an insulated jacket. So things like: Neutral switch / indicators / speed sensor / high beam etc... all go through the multi-strand cable to the captive connector blocks from the M-G Speedo.

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This stuff is the same thin gauge as the M-Unit Speedo wires; and makes the job easier using supplied crimp connections.

Wiring now works far more reliably and is much neater than the 'Franken-Loom' I originally had.
All good so far, just need to tidy up the M-Unit wires.

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I also swapped out the old switch gear and brake fluid pots for Revival momentary switches and Billet fluid pots: again all much neater:

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All good so far, except the Neutral light on the speedo is very intermittent. Check continuity from switch through the cable to the connector block and all good. Pulled switch from engine and cleaned up all seems OK. Tried a switch on again and neutral light is a no show. Could be a faulty sender switch?

OK so I hooked up a remote fuel bottle to carbs to go for a start. Motor turns over well; but no go.
Checked for sparks at the plug and.....nothing! Sod it I need to look at this but I've run out of time today.
Anon
Ads. :devil:
 

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Lovely day today, sun is shining and I'm not working.
Down the shop to get the bike out for a shakedown ride.
Key in, iggy on choke out and press starter.......... Put Put duff!
Battery is flat as a witches tit!

No idea of the age of the battery so ordered one of these from Halfords:
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A bit spendy but its in stock and I can pick it up today.... Hooray!
May still get a ride today, but need to check charging system of bike.
I feel like I'm doomed not to ride this bike.
Ads.:devil:
ACBUILD
 
OK new battery fitted and she fires up first press of the starter; let her warm up.
Switched off and put old battery on charge.
Filled tank to brim with fresh Shell V-Power E5 and wheeled out the shop.
Helmet on. Fired up again first press and nice idle. Took her for a couple of runs around the block, and all seems good.
She runs beautifully with smooth slick gear changes thanks to Cognito - Moto rear sets; well worth the money.
Also the Cognito rear hub with 33T sprocket is a revelation, compared to the 40T old wheelie wanger I had before.

Mind games make me think there is a charging problem; so stopped at a mates car garage workshop.
He had a little device to plug on the battery contacts; shows new battery has low power and system not charging.

Back to the shop and start investigating what the charging issue is.

Apart from that I'm really pleased as she runs & rides so much better than before.

Ads.:devil:
ACBUILD
 
So the charging issue.
First removed the gear linkage to access the stator & rotor.
Cleaned up the slip rings with fine wet & dry, and wiped down to clean off.
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Next test reading with multi meter across the two slip rings = 5.3 - 5.4 ohms
(Meter set @ 200 ohms for all tests).
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I understand 5 .0 - 7.0 ohms is good?

Then each slip ring to center nut; both reading OL.
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I understand this is OK?

Next is the stator.
Testing each white (phase) wire from stator to each other.
Readings were 0.4 ohms; this seems low to considering YouTube videos watched.
Should it be 0.8 - 1.0 ohms?
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I also tested each white wire pin to the stator housing = OL reading.

Any idea what the issue is. And what should I do next?
Cheers
Ads.
ACBUILD
 
5.3Ω ring to ring is good.

Open, ring to ground should be infinity, but you need to test that on a higher scale. A 300Ω short to ground (for instance) will not show up on the 200Ω range you're set on. Try it again on the 2M (2 mega-ohms) range.

Maybe these videos I made will help point us in the right direction.



Hello @Jim
Tried the slap test and nothing, zilch, nadir!
Seems the rotor / stator are not getting energized.
I'll move this over to my build thread tomorrow as it getting more complex; and seems to be a continuation of my build now.
Will post more images there.
Cheers
Adam
ACBUILD
 
CHARGING WOES

Following on from my post here: https://www.xs650.com/threads/what-have-you-done-to-your-xs-today.32082/page-613

As the bike starts and runs well with a fully charged battery, I assume I can disregard the black pick-up with the three wires from the stator shown below?
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So I tried the 'Slap Test' @Jim suggested and got no reaction; meaning the rotor/stator is not getting energized?
Checked the wiring back to the Reg/Rec which seems to be all good. I conclude this points the finger at the Reg /Rec?
I will try tomorrow Jim's suggestion to test the Reg/Rec as shown in his video. I guess the rotor /stator gets energized via the brushes with Ignition on?

Anon.
 
CHARGING WOES

Following on from my post here: https://www.xs650.com/threads/what-have-you-done-to-your-xs-today.32082/page-613

As the bike starts and runs well with a fully charged battery, I assume I can disregard the black pick-up with the three wires from the stator shown below?
View attachment 241069
So I tried the 'Slap Test' @Jim suggested and got no reaction; meaning the rotor/stator is not getting energized?
Checked the wiring back to the Reg/Rec which seems to be all good. I conclude this points the finger at the Reg /Rec?
I will try tomorrow Jim's suggestion to test the Reg/Rec as shown in his video. I guess the rotor /stator gets energized via the brushes with Ignition on?
Yup, that's the ignition pick-up so that's not on your list of suspects.

. . . best leave your other questions for them as knows.
 
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