NEW DEVELOPMENTS - FINAL DRIVE / CARB FLOATS / WIRING LOOM
FINAL DRIVE - GEAR LINKAGE:
I only made two rides this season on this new to me machine. Both attempts to deliver the images for the 2022 calendar.
On the first ride the rear-set gear linkage failed by sheering a stupidly small bolt; a cobbled together roadside repair got me home.
The ride did show up an un-ergonomic position of the gear lever, mentioned in posts above. The standard adjustments did not allow enough range to alter that position so I decided to investigate a solution. Initially a shortened connecting rod would raise the lever; but not without interference with the mounting plate. A longer arm on the shift selector was also a possibility.
Anyhow I decided to remove the whole unit and investigate further.
Low and behold, this has obviously been an issue for a PO who has attempted some corrective repair and failed badly.
The backside of the plate has been butchered to try an allow the rose joint on the connecting rod some vertical clearance.
This has not been done with any shop tools and is a total mess. Further investigation shows the bearings are also mashed in the spindle housing.
Also there is wear causing slop in the leaver 'mech' interface.
I am not happy with the general mess discovered; and the quality of the alloy used is pretty poor too.
I have resolved to buy a new pair of rear-sets that are bespoke to the XS650. More later.
FINAL DRIVE - REAR HUB & SPROCKET:
The final drive gearing is also a problem on the highway. It currently runs with 17 Front / 40 Rear! This is great around town, with good wheelie potential; but she runs out of puff above 50.MPH; and with the thinly padded seat my butt is getting a bigger workout that George Michael in a rent boy toilet!!
I have looked at a few options as suggested by Raymond and a few others. The real problem is the Husqvarna Off Road Hub will not permit a sprocket much less than 38 teeth. The mounting holes are too near the perimeter of the sprocket / hub location.
My solution is to source / buy a new hub allowing me to retain rear disc brake operation
CARBURETOR ISSUES:
I had fully cleaned and rebuilt the carbs prior to going out on the bike; and got her running really well for the first ride. All was going well until the rear-set issue; but as I hobbled back home the engine started to miss fire. She then dropped onto one cylinder intermittently; offering more gas did not help.
Eventually she cut out. After a minute to check things visually, no leaks were found or loose wires, she started up no problem. Off we go and after a few hundred yards the same symptoms. This happened a few times over. It felt like fuel starvation to me. Again she started up and then ran fine back to the shop.
I thought things through my mind and recalled an insignificant issue during the carb rebuild. On removing the carb float pins they they were difficult and a little resistant to move; the left carb in particular. The rebuild kits do no supply new pins so I reused the original ones after cleaning them up. The left pin was still difficult to reinsert to the posts and the float would not move freely. Some fiddling seemed to free it up and the bowls were refitted.
I removed the carbs and pulled off the bowls, and sure enough the LH float was sticking closed. It would free up with a light tap; but stick again with a few flicks up and down. I ordered new pins from Yambits and have now fitted them; reinstalled the carbs and air filters; hopefully that is the cure (Good weather will let me find out!).
Old pins on left you can see a very slight bend/ New pins on right from Yambits needed a bit of polishing.
ELECTRICAL FRANKEN-LOOM:
I have also spoken about this before. The loom is a mess to my eyes, although I have seen much worse on happily running bikes on this forum.
First thing, I had never heard of an AUXILIARY LIGHTING DEVICE before, and on forum member recommendation I unplugged it and tossed it over the horizon. It says you must then bridge some connections to retain operation of the headlights high/low beam; but mine it seems work fine regardless.
Next job was to address the loom as a whole. Raymond advised me to strip it all out and start a-new. Jim convinced me, he's very persuasive, to try a Moto-Gadget M-Unit system installation. So I have now obtained all the components including: M-Unit Basic / M-Button sync lead / Blaze Handle Bar Indicators front / Blaze Pin Indicators rear / Full Loom Wiring kit. I need to decide on whether to go with the current handlebar OEM Jap switches, or get Momentary Switches from either M-Gadget or Revival in the USA (Brilliant custom builds). Revival have a much better design of switch, and Josh is extremely helpful via email; but their ordering system is a nightmare if parts are out of stock:
https://revivalcycles.com/
So this is a part of the winter project. Photo will be taken before, during & after the rewire.
FINAL SOLUTIONS TO DATE:
I have ordered some kit from COGNITO MOTO in the USA (Super custom builds).
Brilliant to deal with even via email (Thanks John). Easy to order everything; even custom bespoke if you have deep pockets.
Custom XS650 Rear Hub / Custom XS650 Rear-Sets; both allowing standard size sprockets and disc brake conversion.
I will rebuild the new hub to the old rim using new spokes.
Nice air-box (Not ordered)
Check out their other parts too, they are good:
https://cognitomoto.com
So watch this space as The Welsh Flat Tracker evolves!