What Electrical Parts to Replace

[rodemyyamaha]

Ok.. I have a 1975 I am bobbing (see at http://rodemyyamaha.com) and I have a Pamco Ignition with the Mean Green coils. I would like to know what else I should replace. I have spent a lot of money on this jewel and want everything to be the best. I will be making my own wiring harness so anything goes. I will have brake lights, headlights, turn signals and will keep the electric starter.

Thanks!

RideHard
RideLong
RideSafe

Rodemyyamaha

 

[pamcopete]

rode....,

Well, the regulator and rectifier come to mind. The stock regulator is junk, even when it was new 30 + years ago. The rectifier uses technology that is no longer in use. The end result of this is a shortened life for the battery and rotor because they are working harder than they need to.

The rotor is $125 and the battery is $40. You can replace the reg and rect for under $20, so It's a no brainer.

Here's the scoop on the regulator:

This regulator requires you to modify the connections on the brushes of your alternator to work like the brushes on a '80 to '84 model.

1. Got to www.napaonline.com or your local NAPA store.
2. Search for part NAPA MPEVR38SB $14.99
3. Remove the ground connection from the inner brush.
4. Replace the three screws on the brush holder with nylon (not plastic) screws (M4-12)

5. Run a wire with a 7.5A inline fuse from the now isolated brush to a source of +12 volts from the ign switch (brown wire)
6. Install and wire the regulator as shown. The wire connections to the regulator use female bullet terminals.
7. The regulator does not have a ground wire. You must ensure that the case of the regulator is grounded. The battery box, where the stock regulator mounts, floats on its rubber mountings and is not a ground.

In the process of testing this setup for the '80 to '84 models I modified my bike as above and installed the regulator. Works the same as the VR291.

This regulator was used on virtually all Chrysler products from 1970 to 1989. It supplies a regulated ground on the green wire to the rotor brush instead of battery so if the rotor shorts out to ground it will not fry the regulator or blow the main fuse. I like it because it is technology from the same era as my '78 XS650 and it's available everywhere for a very low cost, not because it's a cheap product, but because there are lots of them out there and the auto stores are interested in selling them. Advance offers a one year warranty.

The wire connections to the regulator use female bullet connections, but you should remove the protective plastic from the connections for better contact.
Note: Also available from NAPA as their part number MPEVR38SB for $16.69 or from your local "retired vehicle" yard for $5.

Here's the deal on the rectifier:

Here is a suggested replacement for the rectifier on 1970 to 1979 XS650's. Go to Radio Shack and buy 2 #276 - 1185 Full Wave Bridge Rectifiers for $3.29 ea.. Wire and mount them as follows:

1. Fabricate an aluminum plate approx 3 X 2 inches. Use .125 aluminum. This is the heat sink.
2. Mount the Rectifiers per the drawing, using heat sink compound between the bottom of the rectifiers and the plate.
3. Solder wires per the diagram.
4. Recommend that you eliminate the plug and connector as they are toast and you have to solder anyway.
5. Solder the wires from the Rectifiers per the diagram to the existing white wires going to the Alternator and plus / minus (Red / Black).
6. Use a heat sink when soldering the wires to the rectifiers.
7. Mount this assembly in the same place as the original, using either the center hole (as shown) or one of the mounting holes for one of the rectifiers.
8. Note: Do not ground the black wire on the mounting screws. The battery box is floating, it is not a ground.

The Radio Shack rectifier is rated at 25 amps. Two of the three white wires go to one rectifier and the other one goes to the other rectifier, so about 10 amps max is going through one rectifier at full load, with the remainder, 5 amps, going through the other.

The "N/C" terminal can be used as a spare in case one of the diodes shorts out in the future. You could "pre solder" a short wire to it so if you have to use it you can just cut and splice the affected white wire to it.....don't even need a soldering iron!

Life is simple: Ride. Enjoy.

 

[xjwmx]

I would build this, except that I can't figure out a good parts placement and mounting on the bike. Avoiding that hassle seems like worth the cost of a used replacement?

 

[pamcopete]

xj....,

You missed it completly.........a used replacement? Like, the used replacement will also be 30+ years old.

If you keep what you have or get a used piece of crap, then you are going to fry your rotor ($125) and your battery ($40)

The rectifier is mounted in the same place as the stock piece of crap. Likewise the regulator.

 

[650Skull]

Pete, the link to www.partsamerica.com come up as a " site is no longer in service page" where else can we get the parts

 

[pamcopete]

650skull,

Yea, that used to be advance auto. I changed it to NAPA. They have that regulator for $14.99.

NAPA part number MPE VR38SB

Got to www.napaonline.com or your local NAPA store.

 

[xjwmx]

The rectifier is mounted in the same place as the stock piece of crap. Likewise the regulator.

That's how the problem starts, not how it ends. I.E. three separate parts becoming one, all held on with a hole...drilled through what? I'm sure others share my quandry. And just how are my plug and connector toast?

 

[pamcopete]

xj....,

There is some misunderstanding here.

There are only two parts. The regulator and the rectifier on pre 1980 models. You cut the plug off of the old rectifier and connect it to the Radio Shack Rectifiers that are mounted on a 1/8 aluminum heat sink. Remove the old rectifier. Mount the new Radio Shack rectifiers in THE EXACT SAME LOCATION UNDER THE BATTERY BOX plug it in to the same connector as the old rectifier.

If the plug from the old rectifier is crap, then go to mikes and get a new one.

Same deal with the Chrysler regulator. Make up a couple of wires with a female bullet connector on one end for the regulator and a male spade terminal for the connector on the other. Mount the new Chrysler regulator in the same place as the old regulator.

Here is a picture of that setup in a '78/E

Notice the use of a fender washer to use the EXISTING hole in the battery box. THE OTHER SCREW IS IN THE EXISTING THREADED MOUNTING HOLE FOR THE STOCK REGULATOR.


For 1980 + models, do all of the above and mount the Radio Shack rectifiers and the Chrysler regulator on a piece of 1/8 aluminum and connect it to the 8 terminal plug from the stock reg/rect or Mikes. Mount it IN THE EXACT SAME LOCATION AS THE STOCK REG/RECT. Plug it in.
Here is a picture of that setup:

No holes need to be drilled in the bike to mount these replacement parts. They mount in the SAME LOCATION as the stock parts. They plug into the same connectors as the stock parts.

 

[xjwmx]

Is the red arrow pointing at the 2nd hole in the new assembly? Also, is the heat sink compound really necessary? How hot does it get? That adds $5 to my cost.

 

[rodemyyamaha]

Wow.... Man did I hit the jackpot!
Pete... thanks for the detailed info and expert guidance. I purchased my RadioShack rectifier and the aluminum heat sink material. Napa was closed so I will have to pick up the regulator next week. I am going to mount this in my home made battery box so everything will be hidden and safe from the weather.
Again, thanks a million!

http://rodemyyamaha.com

RideHard
RideLong
RideSafe

 

[pamcopete]

rodemyyamaha,

That's great. Quite a few people have done this mod and they are happy.

xjwmx...good luck with your used parts.

 

[xjwmx]

Pete...good luck with your half-finished design.

 

[pamcopete]

xjwmx,

Well, it's interesting that you would be critical of an idea that you have not tried nor offered a better idea in its place.

I first suggested the idea for the regulator in November of 2006 over at The Garage and there have been over 13,000 views of that post since then with many people reporting back with their success stories. Probably a couple of thousand people have actually installed the original regulator and they are happy.

I introduced the Radio Shack rectifier mod in February of 2007, also at The Garage, and there have been 7,997 views of that post since, again with numerous people reporting back with their success stories. There are probably 1,000 people who have successfully installed the rectifier mod and I have not heard of one complaint.

I introduced the so called Chrysler regulator idea in September of 2007 and so far 2,970 people have read the post and I would expect that several hundred have installed it with good results.

I installed the original regulator and Radio Shack rectifiers in my '78/E about 10 years ago and they are still working just fine. I installed the Chrysler regulator combined with the Radio Shack rectifiers in my '81/H three years ago and it's also working fine.

There are several prominent contributors on this site as well as The Garage who have installed the regulator and rectifier in their bikes as well and they are happy and knowledgeable people.

So, the design is not half finished. It's been around for at least 10 years and available to the general population for 3 or 4 years.

Now, I don't think that any of this will mean anything to you, and that's fine. I just wanted to set the record straight for others who may be interested in replacing their regulators and rectifiers for less than $20.

I don't criticize or recommend anything that I have not actually tried myself.

Note: The Garage www.xs650garageusa.com

 

[retiredgentleman]

xjwmx;
You've got a lot to learn about people skills. Pamcopete is giving you the straight goods about electrical parts on these bikes.

Using 30 year old rectifiers and regulators is setting yourself up for a bike breakdown someplace far from home.

I removed my 30 year old rectifier and regulator. Even though they were still working, I replaced them ( following Pamcopete's methods), before they quit working when out on a long ride.

 

[650Skull]

Pete...good luck with your half-finished design.

If i was Pamcopete i would not have even bothered to answer you, his perseverance and dedication to the development of electrical and other parts for people like you cannot be questioned. It is through his generosity and time we can have cheep reliable parts to help us keep our XS on the road, and if you are man enough you would give pamcopete the apology he deserves.

 

[xjwmx]

xjwmx;
You've got a lot to learn about people skills.

Quit playing the favorite. I asked him straight questions and he blew me off. Read and see.

He has no good answers and the design is in fact half-finished, despite the many millions who have installed it.

xjwmx;
Using 30 year old rectifiers and regulators is setting yourself up for a bike breakdown someplace far from home.

What do you base this on? What fails? There are no mechanical parts in there, and it's sealed in epoxy. If you aren't technical, then answer how many have you known to fail personally (not counting from abuse)?

Your brand new homemade reg/rect is more liable to fail than a 30 year old one of the type I described, in my opinion. Search "infant mortality" in electronics components.

 

[650Skull]

Quit playing the favorite. I asked him straight questions and he blew me off. Read and see. He has no good answer and the design is in fact half-finished, despite the many millions who have installed it.

What do you base this on? What fails? If you aren't technical, then how many have you known to fail personally? There are no mechanical parts in there, and it's sealed in epoxy. Your brand new reg/rect is more liable to fail than a 30 year old one of the type I described. Search "infant mortality" in electronics.

I would build this, except that I can't figure out a good parts placement and mounting on the bike. Avoiding that hassle seems like worth the cost of a used replacement?

That's how the problem starts, not how it ends. I.E. three separate parts becoming one, all held on with a hole...drilled through what? I'm sure others share my quandry. And just how are my plug and connector toast?
07-10-2010 09:53 AM

You need to reread your posts , dont bother i put them in the quote just in-case you don't know how to scroll, and open your mind just a fraction and let some thought process start to work, 2 parts, 1, regulator......2, rectifier........... the rectifier has 2 parts that when mounted on to a plate and wired together becomes 1 part so 3 parts become 2 parts and they go where the original parts are mounted.

 

[xjwmx]

Skull - they are both very unlikely to fail. The new one is more likely to fail in my opinion. THe reason I wanted to build it or a similar one was for a cheap spare. Thanks for quoting me for me but I know what I'm thinking and typing. And favorites players on informational websites are disgusting to me.

 

[pamcopete]

xjwmx,

The regulator is covered by a one year warranty which covers the Infant Mortality period for most simple electronic devices. The rectifiers from Radio Shack are not expressly warranted, but they only cost $3.29 to replace, and the design provides one spare set of diodes that could be used in an emergency.

Unlike some after market combined reg/rects, this design keeps them separate so you do not have to replace both in the event of a failure, so the most it could cost you for the first year of potential failure is $3.29 plus tax.

The regulator is available from any auto parts store, even on weekends. The Radio Shack rectifiers are also available at any Radio Shack store, most of them also on weekends. The used part is available from..........

A used part will no longer be subject to infant mortality. They do suffer from the other end of the so called "bathtub curve", however, also know as end of life. End of life failure rates do not improve with age and they are highly unpredictable and fatal.

 

[rodemyyamaha]

Um... I meant this thread to be a way of gathering information... .about my build. XJ.. I have a question.... do you drink excessively prior to sitting down and typing on your Tandy computer?