What happened to my clutch...? Update... :)

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radxs650

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I registered the '79 XS 650 F this year, and took it for a decent shake down blast yesterday. I knew that the clutch ws in need of adjustment so I had a peek at the adjustment procedure in the T/M this morning... I loosened the lock nut and pushed in on the center adjuster (odd little set up) and all of a sudden I have NO clutch at all...!?!

The cable seems to be Waaaay too long or something. At the lever end there is literally enough room for three adjusters, probably two inches of free play. What on Earth could have gone bad here...?

Well, I will take the cover off and order a new set of clutch plates and a new cable.

What else should I change out while doing this job...?

Also, is there a better diagram of the clutch set-up than the manual...? Possibly a pdf somewhere...?

Thanks,
Rob
 
Last edited:
You have an XS650F, meaning it's a standard, correct? New clutch cables come only in the length for the Special which had long pull-back bars. You have to get creative with the extra length.
 
I use Venhill.Co.uk for my cable needs, and custom make them to my bikes requirements. I think Venhill are available around the globe.
Revival USA also supply Venhill cables. Check their website for details and videos of how to make them.
 
Verify what's going on behind the left cover, the adjustment side, before ordering anything. Take that cover off and see what your cable is doing.
Read up on adjustment procedures in this forum too. There's plenty of info and experience to go along with.......manuals can be iffy for a novice.
 
I agree with what nj said. Did you loosen the adjuster and this happened, sounds like the cable may have come out of the cradle inside the cover. Pulling that cover is not that difficult and it’s always good to see what the engine seals are doing underneath there.
 
nj1639 said:
Verify what's going on behind the left cover, the adjustment side, before ordering anything. Take that cover off and see what your cable is doing.
Read up on adjustment procedures in this forum too. There's plenty of info and experience to go along with.......manuals can be iffy for a novice.
Click to expand...

nj & wingedwheel,

I will pull that cover in the AM... been crazy busy this week. Hopefully something will pop out at me when the cover is off.

I did read up on the adjustments, both ends, doesn't seem too odd so I can certainly dial it in IF the components are good. If not, a new clutch is a good thing. :)

Thanks,
Rob

@jetmechmarty

I found new, replacement cables for the standard with Mike's XS and my local Yamaha dealer, they swear it is for the Standard and Not the longer cable for the Special.

rad__
 
If your cable is loose inside the cover you should be able to pull it right out, the metal elbow just sits in the cover. Make sure to lube it while you have it loose and if you replace it make sure to lube the new one as well.
 
So I had a few minutes and pulled the left cover and Man, what a gunk fest...! The cable would not pull through the hole in the cover but as soon as it came free by just a little the cable let go. I do not know whether it had been still attached or not. The cable is in fact Very hard to pull back and forth through the outer case so there's that.

To pull that cable off the tank must come off, correct...?

Does the fuel need to come out due to having no "OFF" with the fuel taps...? I started to pull off one of the outlet lines and fuel flowed in the "ON" position. I would assume that it would on Pri and Res also.

Back to cleaning and trying to pull the cable.

Thanks,
Rob
 
While you’re in there hang the cable up to allow some lube to drain down in your cable unless the end broke off. You will probably need to give the cam lever a good cleaning while you’re at it, just make sure you don’t lose the ball bearing that’s inside there that pushes against your shaft. That worm gear inside that mechanism should move freely.
 
bosco659 said:
Yes the tank needs to be removed. If fuel comes out of your vacuum petcocks, in the on position, I’d say the petcocks need attention. Maybe best to drain fuel out using the prime position.
Click to expand...

Well I'll just siphon the fuel out and finish the drain with the petcock. I have not pulled the hose off completely and I did not want to wait to see if it was just a small, residual amount to come out and maybe stop.
Getting a drain hose on there is going to be a quick trick.
And yes, a kit for the taps should help.

Thanks


Wingedwheel said:
While you’re in there hang the cable up to allow some lube to drain down in your cable unless the end broke off. You will probably need to give the cam lever a good cleaning while you’re at it, just make sure you don’t lose the ball bearing that’s inside there that pushes against your shaft. That worm gear inside that mechanism should move freely.
Click to expand...

10-4 on the cable lube.

The ball is well inside the cam lever mechanism. Soaking in the cleaning tank and I'll retrieve it from there as I clean the cam. It moves quite freely as is. Not sure how, wicked dirty.

Thanks
 
I pulled the old cable, paying close attention to the routing as I went.

There is this odd piece of hose wrapped around a section of the cable near the carbs. Is this a common thing to do with the XSs...? Protection from something chafing on the cable jacket..?

PME18x.jpg


Possibly from this...?

u1x3iG.jpg


And while we're at it... as @bosco659 mentioned, it appears that the fuel taps may need a rebuild. Are there O-rings or gaskets or both of them..?

Any preferred kits that you would like to share...?

Thanks,
Rob
 
No telling what the PO had in mind for that custom shield.
On the routing- mine goes along the right side of the backbone of the frame and drops down behind the carbs but then I'm running Uni Pods and not the stock airboxes. Routing can be a personal preference, usually based on what works......
Petcocks- I replaced mine with the old school manual On-Off-Reserve and then linking the vacuum barbs together with a length of vacuum line- some just cap those manifold barbs off, some manifolds don't even have those barbs.
Other opinions may vary.
 
^^^ Good info on those links, thanks.

I'll open the fuel tap(s) and have a peek in there.

And I could not leave it alone, so I pulled that bit of hose off and nuthin'... No idea why that was on there unless, as mentioned to protect the cable outer jacket...? Dunno. :unsure:
 
You guys are great, saved me from myself. A new clutch cable and all is well. The old cable was so unable to move freely hence the suspected clutch plate issue.
I have yet to go for a test blast, but the clutch action and feel is perfect.
I sourced a new replacement stock length cable from the local Yamaha dealer. Oiled the new cable a week or so back and installed it today. We have been stupid busy, travelling for two weeks down in Memphis and Nashville, finally home and put out the fires and found some garage time...

Now to get to the Son's Honda CRF maintenance and the longest running Triumph project in history...! :D

Thanks all,
Rob
 
I just got a motion pro cable for $12.14 off Amazon. It was listed as a 76 to 81 standard cable these are a few inches shorter than the Special cables.
I put lower bars on the specials, hated the special bars.
 

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