What have you done to your XS today?

hey Gary.......wowee those look awesome......good work! btw....i am looking for a set linked carbs so if you have an "extra" set ;) let me know as i am getting the banana girder for The One Show in Portland, OR. WRMDOVR
Well, I finished hacking off the trash left behind from the upper frame brace, the mid controle mounts, cut the neck lock off. Now to finish smoothing this sucka out before I weld in the new neck gussets, tank, fender and other mounts.
I'm doing a service check. Is this pushrod seal is marking the floor, or should I be looking elsewhere.



It's cold in the garage, so I'd rather sit by the fire and hang here.
A bit hard to tell, I'd check to see if the sprocket nut is tight for sure. The old saw is to follow clean metal up to the leak. Could, maybe be the starter gearcase cover.
That tank looks great on it. Direct fit?
No You have to take the rubber pucks off the 650 tank and mount them to the frame for the 750 tank, and then bend the little tab thing to bring the tank down a bit. Then I cut off maybe an inch of the seat pan and foam off the front of the seat.
I found a little time this afternoon to work on fitting a Hayabusa rear set to my XS650. First I pressed out the factory rubber-steel mounting bushings. I didn`t want to cut the stock peg mounting studs off and just drill them out and tap them so I made some concentric`s to adjust the difference in the 2 different mounting hole centers. Now I have to shorten and re thread the linkage rod and it should work. At least it all lines up as it should. If I have to I`ll just make a new shifter shaft bracket and use regular 1/4" rod ends. The brake side is a different story. The stock rear pass peg and muffler mount needs to be removed so I can check the fit and modify as needed. I was going to remove the rear pass mounts from both sides anyway along with the center stand brackets. The Hayabusa master cyl will clear (I think) and should work OK. Might have to use a pressure brake light switch though. Start lever looks like it will clear too?? With a little luck I`ll be in this set up for less than $100 even if I have to buy rod ends. My $500 build-finish this project budget went to "Hell" 2 weeks ago anyway so whats another $100 here and there?

hayabusa rear set 001.JPG hayabusa rear set 004.JPG hayabusa rear set 005.JPG hayabusa rear set 007.JPG hayabusa rear set 008.JPG hayabusa rear set 010.JPG hayabusa rear set 011.JPG
Got the roller bearings in the steering head and the tree mounted. got both calipers refinished rebuilt and ready to back on. New rear master cylinder installed. And the fork legs mostly disassembled..Too cold in the garage so I quit for today. I have to get the 17mm headed bolt to finish taking the forks apart. hope to finish disassembly tomorrow so I can take the lower tubes to the powder coater.
We are showed and iced in so heated up the garage and drilled out my damper tubes, packed up my 2 into 1 intake manifold to ship it to the ceramic coater. got my fork sliders, chain guard and brake pedal cleaned and ready to go to the powder coater, hopefully tomorrow,. Ordered a good set of used OEM fork tubes to replace my pitted ones and packed up my 389 Amal to be sent out to be board and sleeved back to stock demintions. I also have coming a three wheel stud puller. I am going to practice on my extra cases and figure out the best way to get them out. While I am waiting for the puller, I am hitting them several times a day with a 50/50 mixture of Acatone and ATF. Said to be the best penetrating solution Hot Rod Mag. has ever found. We'll see. I'll apply a little Propane torch heat and see what happens.
I'm waiting for the POR-15 tank sealer kit to show up.
stud puller..
Get each stud good and warm/hot but not glowing with a propane torch or heat gun, then use the the stud puller. They are "locktited" the heat will soften it. Trust dummy, that's the (only) way to do it. Once they are heated even a single wheel puller will do it.



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