What have you done to your XS today?

Yamikaze

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gggGary

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Yamikaze

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5twins

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No, the small increase in width shouldn't be an issue. Yes, you can go wider on the front too. I built a new front wheel for my '83 using a slightly wider 2.15" rim (stock is 1.85"). I'm using the same tire I always did on the old smaller rims, it fits fine .....

ivf7jEE.jpg
 

gggGary

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I am running stock brakes. What's the difference? Hole angle?
Yes spoke hole angle is straighter for the smaller diameter disk brake hub. I'm kinda get r done, made a reamer to adjust the spoke hole angle when I used their alloys with disk front hubs . That may not work as well on a steel rim.
 

Yamikaze

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Yes spoke hole angle is straighter for the smaller diameter disk brake hub. I'm kinda get r done, made a reamer to adjust the spoke hole angle when I used their alloys with disk front hubs . That may not work as well on a steel rim.
No I don't think reaming would be an option on a steel rim. Their pricing seems fair, and if shipping works out... I think I will shoot them an email and see what they have to say about the front rim.
 

bosco659

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Bosco, exactly which Pit Bull stand model did you get? I see they have many.
5T, it’s model F0092-000, for a Triumph Bonneville. Not a straight shot in from the rear, you need to angle in the right support arm to clear the rear brake rod, but it’s very easy to do. Lifts the wheel up about 1-1/2 “. It’s the only model that was found to fit. This has a removable handle. Not sure if the part number provided includes this option. If you look for one or order it, make sure you keep an eye open for this optional feature if desired.
 

LTGTR

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Just a few 650 related jobs that ive done in the last week. Photos show the following:
Balanced the carbys on my 2nd "barn find" 77D using my manometer. Anybody who has tried to get a takeoff nipple and hose (to tap into the vacuum) onto the left hand carby will know you have to trim back the hook on the butterfly spring to fit them on. I found if you insert a bit of wire between the spring and bracket you have enough room - much easier.
Fabed some brackets to strengthen the 2 beams in the ridge of my 2nd shed so I can lift a motor in/out. Used 50mm angle to reinforce the beams and spread the load and inserted a 75 x 50 mm beam between them. Remounted the fluro and used up some gold pressure paint to paint the brackets. Tested it out by lifting the motor out of my engine stand to do some mods on it.
Modified/improved my engine stand - it had non pivoting wheels on it and was really hard to manouver - put some castors on it - popped the spare engine back in using my new lifting beam - everything worked a treat.
Regards Ray.
 

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bosco659

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Just a few 650 related jobs that ive done in the last week. Photos show the following:
Balanced the carbys on my 2nd "barn find" 77D using my manometer. Anybody who has tried to get a takeoff nipple and hose (to tap into the vacuum) onto the left hand carby will know you have to trim back the hook on the butterfly spring to fit them on. I found if you insert a bit of wire between the spring and bracket you have enough room - much easier.
Fabed some brackets to strengthen the 2 beams in the ridge of my 2nd shed so I can lift a motor in/out. Used 50mm angle to reinforce the beams and spread the load and inserted a 75 x 50 mm beam between them. Remounted the fluro and used up some gold pressure paint to paint the brackets. Tested it out by lifting the motor out of my engine stand to do some mods on it.
Modified/improved my engine stand - it had non pivoting wheels on it and was really hard to manouver - put some castors on it - popped the spare engine back in using my new lifting beam - everything worked a treat.
Regards Ray.
Very nice work. I have ‘77 carbs on my ‘76. The vacuum barbs I used seem to be a smaller diameter than yours and with the thin walled tubing on my gauge set I was able to balance the carbs without trimming the spring. I do remember that range of movement of the throttle shaft was limited once the hose snd barb were installed. It was a long time ago that I did this do I’ll check this out and maybe trim the spring hook as you suggest.
 

teamWicked

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Taking a hint from @Mailman in the " Standard issue" thread I put 1/2 my new to me front fender into vinegar today. I may just look for some rusty wrenches, taps and dies too.View attachment 204164
20220107_162632.jpg

...and 7 days later I flipped today so the rusty side is in vinegar. I did scrub it periodically with a wire tooth brush. And my bucket is 1 inch too shallow to get all of the remaining rust. I will carefully over it to a 5 gallon bucket and get more vinegar.
 

bosco659

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View attachment 204709
...and 7 days later I flipped today so the rusty side is in vinegar. I did scrub it periodically with a wire tooth brush. And my bucket is 1 inch too shallow to get all of the remaining rust. I will carefully over it to a 5 gallon bucket and get more vinegar.
That’s pretty impressive. I never thought vinegar would do that good of a job. I think for me, in the past I’ve been too impatient with rust removal products. I’m going to give it a try! Thanks for the follow up pic and post. Will the vinegar damage untreated base metal? What I mean is, if you threw in a piece of raw steel, what would it look like after 7 days?
 

more cowbell

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Howdy everyone,
Plan was to take it apart cleaned, inspected and sealed.
Well have a look what I found. The pistons and cylinder have scratches and one of the rod bearings look bad.
Where do I go from here ? machine to next size piston and new rod's? or dig deep and get 750 with rephase?
Its all a question of money like a lot of other things.
 

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teamWicked

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That’s pretty impressive. I never thought vinegar would do that good of a job. I think for me, in the past I’ve been too impatient with rust removal products. I’m going to give it a try! Thanks for the follow up pic and post. Will the vinegar damage untreated base metal? What I mean is, if you threw in a piece of raw steel, what would it look like after 7 days?
Much of the fender interior plating is gone in the 7 day section. You see the mottled dull silverish metal. I am thinking it was not very thick and road use degraded it. When the other side has 7 days soak I will rinse clean and shoot a rubberized undercoat from a rattle can. I will save some of the vinegar to soak sockets in. Many of mine are rusty in the 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 square drive. Can't complain about that rust though, I bought a fairly complete Craftsman set in Cold Lake Canada in 1986 when I needed to rebuild my 2 liter BMW 4 banger from my 76 2002 sedan. So I have most of them still except the 10mm. Now, the fender does have some bubbling under the chrome on the tob side. If that fails, is there a good way to prep chrome for paint?
 
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Jim

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Where do I go from here ? machine to next size piston and new rod's? or dig deep and get 750 with rephase?
Where you go is a choice you'll have to make. I can say though that your piston (left) is not just scored, there's some pretty serious galling going on there too. Same with the rod little end. Yes, both will have to be replaced. You might want to have a good look at your oil pump too. That looks like oil starvation damage.
 
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