What have you done to your XS today?

DaveO

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Changed the oil. Went for a run along the coast to Whitley Bay past Spanish City* and back by a meandering route. Noticed some mist from the breather. Had a look on the forum. Decided the new (to me, pinched from the kitchen) measuring jug was the problem, so dropped the oil and filled it to the lower mark using the dipstick. I'd put 2500cc in. Its right there on the crankcases. But this is for a newly rebuilt dry engine.

Now I have to test it out, but it looks like rain and me and "her indoors" are going out for lunch.

*Oh girl it looks so pretty to me just like it always did
Like the Spanish City to me when we were kids


https://youtu.be/irhuT22ds-8?t=328
 

Lucky Phil

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Hi Every body
I have to call today Brake Sunday.
1st accumulated required parts :whistle:, this took forever. 2 back drum brake first, everything cleaned/replaced and polished then assembled, easy:thumbsdown:

3 Start front brakes, had to make a few imaginative purchases like braided lines then the fittings to mate to new MC via an inline switch, T piece and onto the early (75/76 C) type calipers. Discovery made, the small convex nipples in the caliper fluid feed port are in fact just pressed in and easy to wiggle out with a snug fit pin punch and concentrated heat giving room for a M10 1.0 banjo bolt.
I'm happy with the assembly, no surprises yet but yet to add fluid and bleed🙏
I've attached some pics, I think I need more practice with the camera.
 

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Adamc

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hello Chaps and Lasses,
Having a look at the next phase of rewiring with the MG M-Unit.
On to the ignition part.
I am a numpty when it comes to Auto Electrics..........No Really!
I think these weird looking thingies are Starter Relays?

Screenshot 2022-08-01 at 22.00.55.png

Could @Jim @Mailman @Raymond @5twins
Confirm my suspicion and wether I still need them in the wiring with an M-Unit?
Just a bit confused as M-Gadget state the M-unit replaces relays.

TA very much!
Ads :umm:
 

Jim

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One is the starter cutout relay. It kills power to the starter solenoid once the engines running (charging).
The other is the headlight relay. It automatically turns the headlight on when the engine's running (charging).


lighting relay.jpg
 

Adamc

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One is the starter cutout relay. It kills power to the starter solenoid once the engines running (charging).
The other is the headlight relay. It automatically turns the headlight on when the engine's running (charging).


View attachment 220680
Thanks for the quick response Jim. Do I need this with the M-Unit?
The YouTube videos do not make it clear; Neither does M-Gadgets instructions or downloads.
There are no markings on the component to say which relay is which.
Im running low beam Head / Tail lights from the AUX1 output on the M-Unit which is live when the iggy is on..
Cheers Ads.
 

Adamc

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Thanks for the quick response Jim. Do I need this with the M-Unit?
The YouTube videos do not make it clear; Neither does M-Gadgets instructions or downloads.
There are no markings on the component to say which relay is which.
Im running low beam Head / Tail lights from the AUX1 output on the M-Unit which is live when the iggy is on..
Cheers Ads.
Oops the wire colours make it obvious.
 

Jim

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On the starter cutout function... you'll get disagreements here on whether it's needed or not. My opinion is it's not. I'm not using it on my bike (rather, it's disabled during start... effectively done away with).
The light relay is also not necessary.... imo. Have it come on with the iggy switch or it's own headlight switch.
 

Adamc

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On the starter cutout function... you'll get disagreements here on whether it's needed or not. My opinion is it's not. I'm not using it on my bike (rather, it's disabled during start... effectively done away with).
The light relay is also not necessary.... imo. Have it come on with the iggy switch or it's own headlight switch.
Thanks again for the advice Jim.
 

teamWicked

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My taillight stopped working after my ReserveLight Unit went up in flames. Brake light still worked after I put a jumper in the harness connector. Because of that fact I have been scouring the schematics looking for a reason my taillight didn't work. I replaced the 1157 bulb. Tested both with a 12v power supply and they are good. It turns out after some testing that the socket was bad. I picked up a socket that fits OK at Autozone and proceeded to grind the crimp lip of the bad socket, remove it and installed the new socket with bend over tabs. The fit was wonky so mixed up some Loctite 2 part epoxy that has been opened and in the tool drawer for 10-20 years and smeared it around the joint and set it in the sun to cure. 2 hours later it is almost cure but I set the socket opening facing up and epoxy flowed into the index grooves for the 1157 bulb. Getting out dental picks I carefully scraped the grooves clean and the 1157 goes in fine and locks in place. When I went to reassemble I realized I had it backwards. Uhg. Got a new socket amd started over. Jere it is with the epoxy curing and facing down so the grooves don't get fouled. This sits under the tail section so the excess epoxy is not an issue.
 

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bosco659

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My taillight stopped working after my ReserveLight Unit went up in flames. Brake light still worked after I put a jumper in the harness connector. Because of that fact I have been scouring the schematics looking for a reason my taillight didn't work. I replaced the 1157 bulb. Tested both with a 12v power supply and they are good. It turns out after some testing that the socket was bad. I picked up a socket that fits OK at Autozone and proceeded to grind the crimp lip of the bad socket, remove it and installed the new socket with bend over tabs. The fit was wonky so mixed up some Loctite 2 part epoxy that has been opened and in the tool drawer for 10-20 years and smeared it around the joint and set it in the sun to cure. 2 hours later it is almost cure but I set the socket opening facing up and epoxy flowed into the index grooves for the 1157 bulb. Getting out dental picks I carefully scraped the grooves clean and the 1157 goes in fine and locks in place. When I went to reassemble I realized I had it backwards. Uhg. Got a new socket amd started over. Jere it is with the epoxy curing and facing down so the grooves don't get fouled. This sits under the tail section so the excess epoxy is not an issue.
Looks like my tail light. Aftermarket? If it’s what I think it is,replacements are quite inexpensive. With the epoxy fix you might have ground issues.
 

Adamc

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More wiring work on the new loom plus:
New front sprocket (to go with the new rear 33t one and new chain).
IMG_1763.JPEG

What a pig to remove! None of my strong-arm kit would budge it.
Borrowed a mates Milwaukee Big Boy rattle gun.....Took it off in a trice.
And also put the new one back on.

All this Iggy wiring runs inside the down tube and was poorly routed 2mm away from the spinning chain.
Cheapo wire connector block just hanging down below the casing, exposed to water.
Also the wires are incorrectly colored after leaving the rotor area block.
This was a disaster waiting to happen. I am going to pull it all out and rewire completely.
IMG_1761.JPEG
IMG_1762.JPEG


Another poor wiring situation.
This bundle of black cables leaving the solenoid is going to the starter motor.
This should be an 6awg cable? (Could I get away with an 8awg as space is tight in the down tube?).
InkedIMG_1764.jpg
 

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Raymond

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Adam, all these problems you're confronting and dealing with now, saving so many tears later. I'm sure you know that. I don't think you wanted to re-wire the bike but you will get your reward with a practical scoot from a garage queen.
 

46th Georgia

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Adam, all these problems you're confronting and dealing with now, saving so many tears later. I'm sure you know that. I don't think you wanted to re-wire the bike but you will get your reward with a practical scoot from a garage queen.
Amen to that. As an electrician, I'm a pretty good painter. When I built my last hot rod, a '50 Ford pick-up, I bit the bullet and made a new harness instead of trying to fix the ancient hacked up thing that was in there. I had a good how-to manual and friends that were a phone call away if I couldn't figure it out. End result? I never had another problem with electrics. Sure, it took me forever, but was worth it 10x's over.
 

teamWicked

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Looks like my tail light. Aftermarket? If it’s what I think it is,replacements are quite inexpensive. With the epoxy fix you might have ground issues.
16596204499405905551861841464455.jpg
It is an aftermarket taillight assembly. I have no grounding issues. YET. :) The socket has "bend over" tabs and ground continuity is good so far. Your point is well and gratefully taken.
 

bosco659

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View attachment 220954It is an aftermarket taillight assembly. I have no grounding issues. YET. :) The socket has "bend over" tabs and ground continuity is good so far. Your point is well and gratefully taken.
I bought one of these as a replacement when one of the mounting inserts pulled out. Bike looks great btw!


DF5AFA14-8339-4225-98DF-3F199EFCF27B.png
 

jpdevol

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This bundle of black cables leaving the solenoid is going to the starter motor.
This should be an 6awg cable? (Could I get away with an 8awg as space is tight in the down tube?).
The XS starter specs current draw at 12V 37A no load to 8.3V 100A @ full load 3000rpm (that's from the book). The short cable run makes a difference in you favor. Still 8ga would be pushing accepted boundaries, but doable on a "well tuned motor". 6ga more forgiving of extra cranking. Attached chart mostly useless (lengths), but gives an idea
 

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