What have you done to your XS today?

1hr 45 minutes to get the exhausts and both wheels off, tyres off and spokes all out. Quite happy with that!

So that's spokes returned and fuel tank and side covers, kind of a deja vu feeling

Here’s hoping the next go around will be more successful! At least you’re moving on it. 👍🏻
 
Well, outside for a better look at the lines ( hard to see in the shop !)
Still some details and waiting on a wire harness ( yes, still waiting !)
 

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My bike sits so low to the ground I have to hoist it up just to get my flat jack under it. So today I built a little platform I can roll it up on and slide out the center bit to put my drain pan in. Also did the squeeze trick on the #4 gear clip and have a working e-start again.
 

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Sweet! Gotta love Washington State for riding. I can't wait to return this summer. Your bike must have some snarl with that pipe!
Yeah, it rides pretty awesome. I put the Procycle TM40 Pumper carb on it at the same time I did the FMF powerbomb header and FMF Q4 muffler on it....that made it sound and feel like a proper thumper. I love that bike more every time I ride it.

I hear great things about that shock you're putting on too!
 
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Got these in the post today, genuine footrest rubbers to replace the torn ones I have.
Don't remember having them tearing on the previous xs's I've had, but they don't last long at all.
I'm going to try and extend the 20mm X 20mm square steel tube another 10mm so there is more length inside the rubber.
May even cut the tube off at the pin bracket and rotate it 45degrees so the flat surface is at the top .
I've tried searching but haven't found anything about this anywhere but interested to know if anyone has dealt with this problem.
The steel tube is 60 mm long and there is room inside the rubber for 70 mm .?View attachment 238252View attachment 238253
. I had no luck finding the original front footrests so today I cut the footrest tubes and welded in 10mm of 20mm X 20mm square tube.
Now the rubbers are supported for their entire length and it's definitely a big improvement, my feet aren't hanging off the ends anymore. I should have done it years ago.
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I spent some quality time in the garage today, mainly machining 4 bushings for a cylinder head jig/ fixture for the XT250, as I plan on having the valve seats recut, and the one piece head does not play nice with a valve seat machine.
Then I made a piston stopper for the XS, for verifying TDC. Just an M8 bolt, an old spark plug, and a piece of round bar that I machined to fit snugly in the spark plug shell. I still need to put some small tack welds on it, and make some kind of vent hole, to avoid fighting the compression when using it.
 

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Out with the 32T rear sprocket and new 34T installed. Couldn't find a 33T 520 chain silver sprocket so the 34T will have to do. Had a chance to clean up some bits around the rear hub while the wheel was off. Hopefully I can test it tomorrow. If I’m not happy with the 34T, XS650Direct advised the 33T should be back in stock this summer. For the curious - the blue thingy in the last pic is the Motion Pro chain alignment tool.



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Almost had “Helga”,our 75b keeper from New Berlin,Wi ready for the correct testing procedures.
 

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I spent some quality time in the garage today, mainly machining 4 bushings for a cylinder head jig/ fixture for the XT250, as I plan on having the valve seats recut, and the one piece head does not play nice with a valve seat machine.
Then I made a piston stopper for the XS, for verifying TDC. Just an M8 bolt, an old spark plug, and a piece of round bar that I machined to fit snugly in the spark plug shell. I still need to put some small tack welds on it, and make some kind of vent hole, to avoid fighting the compression when using it.
Made a piston stop to find TDC on the RE Bullet. Knocked the middle out of a spark plug, filed the flange off, ran a tap down the middle and wound a length of XS650 turn signal stem into it.

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The hollow stem means no fighting compression to turn the engine over.

The length of the tool was a lucky guess - there's only about 20° between stopping the piston turning the engine forward & backwards. Was worried about making it too long and tangling with the valves but if it had been a little bit shorter it wouldn't have worked.
 
Made a piston stop to find TDC on the RE Bullet. Knocked the middle out of a spark plug, filed the flange off, ran a tap down the middle and wound a length of XS650 turn signal stem into it.

The hollow stem means no fighting compression to turn the engine over.
That was a clever use of a turn signal stem! I am dreading the drilling through of the M8 bolt, as it is stainless, and I don't want to use a larger drill bit than absolutely necessary. Hopefully my favorite cutting oil, Rocol, will help somewhat.
 
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