Thanks old man... I hope to avoid the necessity... I have three frames and engines and buckets of bits and one is a runner, another one a hardtail...but I am not much interested in working on or building scooters anymore, getting nearer to the end of the twig... the runner seems quite sound yet, weeps a little at the gaskets goes like the wind... (the 50/50 graphite lube oil goes back to the flood, but I actually keep a can of it left over from a job in the 1980's - one makes it up one the job, very oldtimey) Thanks fellas copper A/S for the old gal it isI've always used the copper anti-seize. I don't think Yamaha speced anything special (not that I've seen anyway). I think they just say "lubed".
Aham a tinkin 'bout 3 drops DOT 5 si through the schrader valve tube ... if I feel like more 'spirimentin'. I remember from a longlongtimeago the Si "oil" doesn't have problems with rubber bits, from a brake lecture in 1980...big sales pitch for DOT 5, with an open bar!... I would not try this with a tubeless tire...maybe Si makie slip on rim...I am fairly sure I have now by experiment and research understood the tire pressure question. It is that there exists more than one mechanism of pressure loss in the matter...more or less motorcycle tires, in this inquiry. It seems that there is permeability, in which case larger molecule gas would leak slower than air... And! Solubility. Evidently some gases and the elastomeric material of inner-tubes and tires are mutually soluble, and a differential density results in condensation-evaporation through the "solute" (which it is) of the tubes and or tire. Solubility reigns.
CO2 acts as an organic solvent in the experiment...and it "leaks" (actually evaporates through) faster than air. The fact that it's a larger molecule seems to be a difficult thing to account for experimentally...but my science fair is finished... best gas tire is (probably so far) air. But I wonder about silicone oil films...
I've made up a truing jig for my wheel rebuild. So long as the wheel bearings are ok, its ok to just use a couple of vees sawn into some scrap wood. I have since stripped down the wheel completely and its ready for cleaning up.I received my stainless steel butted spoke sets today. I think that I shall clean up the hubs and rims, polish them and then re-lacquer the rims and include the hubs too. The existing rims are still in good nick and just need tidying up. There is very little run out on the rims. The wheel bearings are good amd so there's the winter project: wheel rebuilding. I shall start with the front wheel and take a few pictures of the original factory lacing first. I remember the last time I rebuilt some wheels and it actually paid dividends to carefully strip down the old wheels by unscrewing the nipples rather than just whizzing them off with a metal cutting disc in the angle grinder. By going the slow way, I learnt a lot about how to rebuild too. I'll keep this post updated with developments. My wifes sort of slowed everything down a bit by diverting me onto less important minutiae. Next job to do is to build up my wheel building jig which will be two pieces of wood with a vee cut into the end of each of them and then cross braced. The XS wheels a symetrical on the hubs and so I dont need to build in an offset.
Ive loosened off one spoke in order to check that the new nipples are the right size. Interestingly, each original nipple has its own spherical washer.
New spokes and nipples are the right size for the job. The front wheel is out of the bike and the tyre and tube are stripped off by th way, if you wondered how I managed to check that the new nipples were correct.
Close, Bullet 500 but some PO has had the good taste (?) to fit what in my yoof were called bacon slicers. Gives the bike a slice of GT250 street cred. Maybe.Continental GT250?
I don't see a door, I see a handle. And my work bench has a handle too. We mustn't go seeing things that just aren't there . . .Yebbut, yours has a door.
No, it leads nowhere except to an inexcusable digression from this thread.It leads to the Tardis.
TBH I prefer to work along the lines of KFS. For wheel building and trueing, all I need is good wheel bearings. When the tyre and tube are on the completed rim I shall need to set up level and without any binding in order to ballance.You have to rig up some way to keep the wheel from shifting side to side on the axle or you won't have much luck trying to true it, lol. I shim the wheel in my stand with washers and/or spacers .....
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Also, one side of my stand is adjustable so I can level the axle .....
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