What have you done to your XS today?

No, it is spray from Eastwoods. They claim it to be durable. We shall see. Not a show ride, actually it is the one I would ride in the winter and stuff. Just getting some fresh lipstick and a spa treatment.
Well it looks damn good from here. Got a link to the paint... or the name of it? Cheers.
 
No, it is spray from Eastwoods. They claim it to be durable. We shall see. Not a show ride, actually it is the one I would ride in the winter and stuff. Just getting some fresh lipstick and a spa treatment.
I used the same stuff. I think it's Chassis Black Gloss.
 
Got the bungs and the brackets welded by a professional
 

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I blasted and prepped to rebuild the front master cylinder but having a hell of a time finding the right rebuild kit for the round style front master… not having to worry about stopping is nice

Medic, try Niche Cycle. http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/categ...r-kits/yamaha-master-cylinder-repair-kit.html

I had the same problems. The replacement is a bit different than the original parts but still works. You can view my thread here...
https://www.xs650.com/threads/75-front-brake-refurbish.54088/#post-580979


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Progress this morning. Some more bits prepped for rust treatment and eventual painting.

Bike didn't burst into flames when I hooked the battery up. :thumbsup:

Tested and working - low and high beam and idiot light, tail and brake light, horn, neutral light. Battery is not fully charged so left it at that for now before next set of testing after a short charge on the battery.

A question though for those more knowledgeable on charging systems. I have installed a more modern solid state voltage regulator. On the rotor brushes I'm measuring 10.6 volts. This is with nothing else switched on, just the ignition switch. Battery is 12.6 volts. Is this voltage at the brushes lower than expected before cranking? Thanks.

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Progress this morning. Some more bits prepped for rust treatment and eventual painting.

Bike didn't burst into flames when I hooked the battery up. :thumbsup:

Tested and working - low and high beam and idiot light, tail and brake light, horn, neutral light. Battery is not fully charged so left it at that for now before next set of testing after a short charge on the battery.

A question though for those more knowledgeable on charging systems. I have installed a more modern solid state voltage regulator. On the rotor brushes I'm measuring 10.6 volts. This is with nothing else switched on, just the ignition switch. Battery is 12.6 volts. Is this voltage at the brushes lower than expected before cranking? Thanks.

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That does seem like a significant voltage drop. Maybe check connections, and ignition switch, for excessive resistance, with an ohm meter. Isolate them from current prior to using ohm meter. Ignition switch gets a lot of work so maybe a bad connection there.
 
That does seem like a significant voltage drop. Maybe check connections, and ignition switch, for excessive resistance, with an ohm meter. Isolate them from current prior to using ohm meter. Ignition switch gets a lot of work so maybe a bad connection there.
That's my thinking too. I'm charging the battery now and then I'll check the brown switched live and the brushes again. At the present I'm tempted to finish off testing the other electrics and see if I can get it to start. The solid state voltage regulator is a complete unknown to me so I have no reference to compare it to.
 
Last Wednesday was a cloudy but dry day; Mrs C was visiting friends and said 'Why don't you go for a ride today'. Not one to pass up a good offer I agreed.
The Brat (1200GS) would have been an easy chioce to go on as its all ready to rock; but I fancied a trip on Taffy (XS650) although a little fetteling was required before the off. All excited I headed off to the lockup / workshop.

On arrival I ulocked the doors secured by a high security (Flippin' expensive) Ingersol padlock at let myelf in. Last time I ran Taffy only for a short run around the block to wake him after the winter storage. It was still cloudy outside so decided to retorque the head, something I needed to do. I removed the Head steady frame bracket, and with the re-tourqe advice from @Jim / @5twins I set about the main studs (No's 1 - 8) @30bls.ft.

troque 3.JPG


Moved to the smaller bolt heads (No's 9 -11) under the spark plugs and rear of head requiring 16ft.lbs. But access was not achievable with my larger Torque wrench and socket attached.

So I locked up and went to get a smaller Halfords Advanced Pro wrench in the 10 - 35ft.lbs range, from the Auto store (£110).
I also went to the local bike shop to get a Bike new security chain and lock; Oxford products (£110)

On my return I found my key would not fit the barrel of the padlock, the barrell seemed to have moved in the housing. Try as I might I could not get it to work. All my tools were inside behind the door; so tried to call an emergency locksmith. The first two 'Fast / Speedy 24-7 rsponse' guys said ''I can get there tommorow mate!'' Luckily the third one (Higgs Locksmiths Newport) Dropped the non-urgent job he was going to, and arrived 20 minutes later.
A few attempts to pick the lock were unsuccesful; he sacraficed the lock with a cutting disc, and 15mins later I was in. £50 cash for his great service was money well spent....Or so I thought.

Getting inside I spy on the workbench my perfectly intact Ingersol High Security padlock! Call me 'Terry Fuckwit'** if you like I had shut up shop using my old Squire bike lock and had the Ingersol key in my pocket :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: Thats why the key didn't freakin' fit!!!!

Onto the smaller head bolts and my new torque wrench still would not fit in the space available! Oh bugger!! I need to get a crows foot adapter to complete the job.

So no ride out again today, just as the late afternoon sunshine streamed into the workshop; and I have to pick up Mrs C.
I am now £270 down, but at least I have a new tool, a lock and chain and the experiance of lifes mistakes!

I will be back armed with the other info I found on the site below:
torque 1.JPG

torque 2.JPG



**TERRY FUCKWITT
FUCKWITT3.JPG
 
A question though for those more knowledgeable on charging systems. I have installed a more modern solid state voltage regulator. On the rotor brushes I'm measuring 10.6 volts. This is with nothing else switched on, just the ignition switch. Battery is 12.6 volts. Is this voltage at the brushes lower than expected before cranking? Thanks.
That depends on the technology used in the regulator. Some are better with less voltage drop, some might push only 10V into the brushes. Yes, you definitely want more voltage to the brushes because it aids in better charging at lower rpm (like idle) but when shopping for a regulator, that information is not disclosed in the item description.
Though if you are handy, you can always make your own, plenty of circuits published online. Analog or digital, your choice. And the right circuit will have minimal voltage drop on the output, less than a volt, if implemented with a MOSFET driver with low saturation levels.
 
Good start to the morning. Cleaned up the whole exhaust, reinstalled. The crossover pipe was in pretty bad shape, so we slapped a heavy duty band clamp from Mike's on the crossover pipe to hold her together. Tuesday we dropped her off at BNM, our local exhaust magician shop. Brian just called to say he thinks my band clamp's going to do just as well as anything he could fabricate (Pretty much like this).
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That depends on the technology used in the regulator. Some are better with less voltage drop, some might push only 10V into the brushes. Yes, you definitely want more voltage to the brushes because it aids in better charging at lower rpm (like idle) but when shopping for a regulator, that information is not disclosed in the item description.
Though if you are handy, you can always make your own, plenty of circuits published online. Analog or digital, your choice. And the right circuit will have minimal voltage drop on the output, less than a volt, if implemented with a MOSFET driver with low saturation levels.
Thanks, it's an unknown quantity presently. I changed the 47 year old rectifier and the regulator largely on the influence of what I read here. The regulator is an automotive type B three wire regulator originally used on Peugeot, Lada and other vehicles back in the day. I am parking the testing now until the battery is fully charged.

There's less than zero chance of me making my own voltage regulator! I can just about crimp terminals to wire and measure voltage. Beyond that, I'm pretty much lost.
 
bolt heads (No's 9 -11) under the spark plugs and rear of head requiring 16ft.lbs.
The one in the rear is 6mm, Adam. It only gets about 7ft-lbs. Since it's a pain to get to, I usually just snug it up by feel.
 
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