More progress yesterday afternoon and this morning. Cleaned and lubricated the ignition switch as suggested. Was pretty clean already and hasn't made a huge difference to the voltage at the ignition coils. I conclude that the voltage drop I'm seeing at the coils is a result of multiple 47 years old crimps and bullets. So, a big effort to go through and replace them all. After thinking about it, I've decided to use the red/white switched live to the coils to switch a relay and send battery voltage to the coils. I can't get a better spark from the coils than that. I've ordered what I need to do that. Should be here Tuesday. Meantime, I tapped into the red/white and put a temporary voltmeter I had into the circuit. The voltmeter is broken despite it being unused. I am not a big fan of Chinese electronics. (I have bought two relays for my ignition circuit mod. So I have a spare in my pocket should the installed one fail).
This morning we have a very sunny and warm day. The only one so far this year. So I've sprayed the mufflers rusty areas previous treated with Jenolite rust treatment. There's a real rust trap where the mufflers mount to the rear footrests. And the underside generally has a fair bit of rusty patches. I want the original mufflers to last as long as they can. So treating the rust and spraying the areas with barbecue paint is a sensible option, I think. Some of the painted black area will be visible but I'm not too bothered about that.
One snag that I also spotted the lower chain run is eating into the exhaust cross over tube. It's maybe 50% of the way worn through. I have fitted a stainless steel worm drive clip over the area where the chain rubs. I need to trim the tail off the clip, I'll do that before refitting the mufflers. At the moment the black barbecue paint is curing in the warm sun. Should be nice and dry after lunch.
Pictures -
View attachment 326453
View attachment 326454