Pulled my XS650D out of its winter hibernation spot, charged the battery and she fired right up. Although that was gratifying, the bike is not really ride-worthy, as it was put away with known carburation (if I knew I'd fix it!), shifting (false neutrals between gears) and clutch issues (slipping under power). Probably need to keep this on the back burner while I get the SG certified.
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What have you done to your XS today?
- Thread starter I am Carbon
- Start date
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- Tags
- maintenance
CaptCardboard
XS650 Enthusiast
Cleaned my carbs and got new fuel petcocks on today!
It runs the same as it did before, which isn't bad, but I'm not leaking fuel everywhere anymore!
Still fussing with syncing a bit. Right side fires stronger than the left, but when I pump up the left side I get a lot of backfiring while decelerating. I'm still waiting on some new plug wires to replace my old ratty mismatched wires that came with the bike. I'm gonna make sure I've got solid even spark on both sides before I mess with the carbs any more.
Went for a ride downtown to see some friends. Kinda made me wish I had friends that rode.
It runs the same as it did before, which isn't bad, but I'm not leaking fuel everywhere anymore!
Still fussing with syncing a bit. Right side fires stronger than the left, but when I pump up the left side I get a lot of backfiring while decelerating. I'm still waiting on some new plug wires to replace my old ratty mismatched wires that came with the bike. I'm gonna make sure I've got solid even spark on both sides before I mess with the carbs any more.
Went for a ride downtown to see some friends. Kinda made me wish I had friends that rode.
CaptCardboard
XS650 Enthusiast
I haven't yet. It's been running ok and it just seems like a waste of effort until I have matching plug wires... Which will arrive tomorrow! I'm thankful I get to enjoy riding while still tinkering.
What do you mean "special" head pipes? Are they unusual? The short pipes are fun. I like the simplified look. They're loud, but I don't feel obnoxiously so. Just a hefty baked beans with french fried onions fart sound.
Your head pipes appear to be of the “Special” model. The curve looks so. That is not a bad thing. I like that shape.
Look in the gallery of pics at different bikes and I believe you will see that the “Standard” head pipes are more straight in following the frame rails.
CaptCardboard
XS650 Enthusiast
My new Uni pods and plug wires arrived this morning!
Got those on and adjusted my timing chain and valves. Got all geared up to finally adjust points and timing and....
I do believe those used to be my advance return springs.
Anybody know if there's anything special with these springs? I work at an antique salvage hardware store that services mortise locks and have all kinds of springs about this size to service locks. I wonder if a couple mortise lock springs will do the trick.
Got those on and adjusted my timing chain and valves. Got all geared up to finally adjust points and timing and....
I do believe those used to be my advance return springs.
Anybody know if there's anything special with these springs? I work at an antique salvage hardware store that services mortise locks and have all kinds of springs about this size to service locks. I wonder if a couple mortise lock springs will do the trick.
Well, the tension needs to be correct or the timing won't advance (too stiff) or it will advance too quickly and at too low of an RPM (too weak). I suppose all you can do is try some and see. Then observe the timing advance with a timing light as you rev the bike up. The advance normally starts about 1500 to 1800 RPMs and reaches full advance at around 3K or 3200 RPM.
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YAM277
Yamaholic
SPRING HAS SPRUNG!!!!
CaptCardboard
XS650 Enthusiast
If anyone was curious. Mortise lock springs as advance return springs are not the business. My bike actually ran shittier than it did without any springs.
Guess I'll be ordering the right part. Whomp.
Guess I'll be ordering the right part. Whomp.
Hey while your busy with the mechanical advancer unit & springs I’m wondering if you have cleaned and greased that thru rod ?
If not, now would be good
That rod does rather easily go out the points cam side without even messing with the points settings.
If not, now would be good
That rod does rather easily go out the points cam side without even messing with the points settings.
CaptCardboard
XS650 Enthusiast
Good call. It just pulls right out? Just plain old grease will do? I'm sure there's YouTube videos and manuals to look up, but since we're here.....Hey while your busy with the mechanical advancer unit & springs I’m wondering if you have cleaned and greased that thru rod ?
If not, now would be good
That rod does rather easily go out the points cam side without even messing with the points settings.
I really appreciate the knowledge of this group. Working on this bike has been a lot of fun!
If that 10mm nut cracks loose there on the advancer side (seems to most often) then yes, just spread the points enough to pull the whole rod out.
Clean the journals with a round brush or Qtips, etc.. grease the journal grooves and rod ends with a good quality grease.
Put it all back and the advancer will work much better than a dry dirty rod for sure.
Pay attention to the marks on the advancer side for correct orientation.
Clean the journals with a round brush or Qtips, etc.. grease the journal grooves and rod ends with a good quality grease.
Put it all back and the advancer will work much better than a dry dirty rod for sure.
Pay attention to the marks on the advancer side for correct orientation.
I think a drop of low strength loctite screwloc or similar won't go amiss on the 10mm nut at each end of the advance rod.
My bolding in the quotation to emphasise it. Previous owner had my bike's advance rod fitted 180 degrees out. Bike would never have started if it hadn't been spotted and flagged up here. If it hadn't been corrected, I'd have no clue why the bike wouldn't start.
The factory shop manual recommends a moly grease. I use VW CV joint grease as it has a very high moly content. Before .....
..... and after .....
The "before" pic was after running for 5 or 6 years. It was bone dry when I did it the first time. Still some grease left but I figured it was time for a "refill", lol.
..... and after .....
The "before" pic was after running for 5 or 6 years. It was bone dry when I did it the first time. Still some grease left but I figured it was time for a "refill", lol.
Not much done today. Rerouted the clutch cable and a bit of wiring tidy up. But I'm still waiting for my springs arrive to fix the kill switch. eBay tracking shows they were only cleared from UK customs last night and given to the courier to ship here. Maybe I'll have them Saturday. Still a lot of cleaning and polishing up to do generally but I can't get motivated to do it now until I've fixed the kill switch and tried starting it up. And then the biggest decision of all will be what to do with the tins. I don't believe the original paint is recoverable.
That depends on what you want to make with the bike. Ratty original? Tidy up with s/h tins from a breaker? New tank and your choice of paint scheme? There are lots of options depending on intentions, taste and affordability . . .
Yes, preference is to keep the original paint but there's heavy paint/decal damage on the tank that I really don't think is recoverable. Second preference is to refinish to the original scheme (1977 bountiful blue). Third preference is single colour (blue) with some lines. Budget on this bike is well and truly blown so sadly cost is important. Second preference sounds expensive to me.
I think this year I'm likely to just live with the damaged paint.
The bike is a survivor grade machine and never intended as a show bike in any way. I've upgraded it with modern stuff where it's sensible. But I want to retain as much of the patina as I reasonably can. It's taken over 47 years to look how it does.
Paint damage-
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You could touch that nice 77 tank up and buff it and be just fine the way it is. That’s what I’d do
