What have you done to your XS today?

Although I wasn’t due for an oil change, I was anxious to try out a different oil, with the goal of reducing clutch drag. Ever since I’ve owned the bike, I have run BelRay EXL 20W50 mineral oil. I decided to try Shell Rotella T4, 15W40 (JASO, MA2). I dropped the sump plate and was pleased there was only dirty oil in there and no plastic or metal bits on the sump screen. Similarly, the pleated filter was just dirty and no extra bits were stuck to it.

After the change, I went for a spin and tried to work the clutch a lot to squeeze out the 20W50 and work in the 15W40. After riding it until the engine was hot, I tried shifting to neutral. I still can’t do it from a standstill but it “appeared” to be easier when rolling to a stop. I didn’t notice any significant increase in valve train noise as reported by others.

Much more riding is needed to see if the viscosity change has really benefited me, but so far the results are encouraging. The other good thing is the cost per oil change is lower and the 5L jug will take care of two changes for me.

View attachment 331757View attachment 331758
Quick update - switching from 20W50 BelRay to 15W40 Shell Rotella still seems to be a good thing. Today, before I went for a ride, I put it in gear (engine off), pulled the clutch and rocked the bike to break the clutch plates free. They immediately let go where the 20W50 felt very sticky and you could feel the drag pushing it. With cold 20W50, if you pulled the clutch and tried the estart, the extra load was quite noticeable and the bike would move forward a bit when the started engaged. Not so with the 15W40. I haven’t had it out for a good long run yet so I can’t say if the valve train noise is more apparent.
 
That's a great green colour!
Thank you, When I was in high school I bought a new 1969 Triumph T100C. It was a beautiful green I thought. Unfortunately, it was stolen and never recovered. So, when I came upon the Yamaha I thought I would try and recreate the past in my mind. The Yamaha isn't as bright green as the Triumph was but I liked it. The color is from a 1997 General Motors color called Bright Green.
 
Couldn't put up with the dead odometer (bad gears inside the speedo) on Madness, so went to back to a stock set of gauges from SOIR,
Were some wiring snafus from the change but got it ironed out, with a couple of do-laters to go.
20180612_184532.jpg KIMG7150.JPG
KIMG7149.JPG
Had to test........
Devils Lake
KIMG7151.JPG
Baraboo looking North from the old train station.
KIMG7154.JPG

KIMG7155.JPG
Circus world on the Baraboo River.
KIMG7156.JPG
All good for now.
 
Couldn't put up with the dead odometer (bad gears inside the speedo) on Madness, so went to back to a stock set of gauges from SOIR,
Were some wiring snafus from the change but got it ironed out, with a couple of do-laters to go.
View attachment 331880 View attachment 331884
View attachment 331885
Had to test........
Devils Lake
View attachment 331883
Baraboo looking North from the old train station.
View attachment 331882

View attachment 331886
Circus world on the Baraboo River.
View attachment 331881
All good for now.
Seems like a very pleasant corner of the world. Like the non-OEM gauges, too bad the odometer is offending!
 
My 72 has been in my basement since I picked up my 96 Virago XV750 in 2001. I just cleaned up my work bench, got the necessary tools in place and began my plan for dismantling. The reason: I felt a high frequency vibration after a 9 hour trip from Gainesville, GA to Sunset Beach, NC and 9 hours back the next day. I took all back roads, (normally only 6.5 hours by car), I didn't push it hard, the oil was new and the ambient temperature was mild.
For those of you who are thinking, "It's a 650, they naturally vibrate your teeth out and make your ass and hands numb!" I know that and have lived with that for 75K miles. This is a different kind of vibration. Not the kind that makes your bike walk around the driveway on the centerstand whilst warming up! It's a much higher frequency.

This is after 25,000 miles on the 750 kit and all new engine bearings. I bought the bearings from Mikes and I suspect they might be th problem since the Mikes steering head bearings went bad after about 2 years. I have a 75 engine with 12K miles on it. (That's where I got the crank to make the 750 kit work on a 72). I'm thinking that since the original bearings in the 72 lasted about 75K miles, then I can use the 75 bearings that only have 12k on them.

I'm assuming, (and hoping), that the top end is OK, and since the lower engine bearings and trans are easier to inspect and replace, I'll start there. FYI, all bearings were changed except the lower con rod bearings for 2 reasons: 1) I don't have the tools or the expertise and, 2) the 75 crank had only 12K miles.

As usual, all your opinions, comments and helpful hints will be gladly appreciated. I want to get my old 72 back on the road and take it to the Vintage Yamaha Rally this year in September! BTW, there were 23 XS's at the VYR in 2019. In 2021 and 2022, I saw 5 at most. Come on you new guys, go there and show off your 650s.

Oh, and hello to my old forum friends.
 
My 72 has been in my basement since I picked up my 96 Virago XV750 in 2001. I just cleaned up my work bench, got the necessary tools in place and began my plan for dismantling. The reason: I felt a high frequency vibration after a 9 hour trip from Gainesville, GA to Sunset Beach, NC and 9 hours back the next day. I took all back roads, (normally only 6.5 hours by car), I didn't push it hard, the oil was new and the ambient temperature was mild.
For those of you who are thinking, "It's a 650, they naturally vibrate your teeth out and make your ass and hands numb!" I know that and have lived with that for 75K miles. This is a different kind of vibration. Not the kind that makes your bike walk around the driveway on the centerstand whilst warming up! It's a much higher frequency.

This is after 25,000 miles on the 750 kit and all new engine bearings. I bought the bearings from Mikes and I suspect they might be th problem since the Mikes steering head bearings went bad after about 2 years. I have a 75 engine with 12K miles on it. (That's where I got the crank to make the 750 kit work on a 72). I'm thinking that since the original bearings in the 72 lasted about 75K miles, then I can use the 75 bearings that only have 12k on them.

I'm assuming, (and hoping), that the top end is OK, and since the lower engine bearings and trans are easier to inspect and replace, I'll start there. FYI, all bearings were changed except the lower con rod bearings for 2 reasons: 1) I don't have the tools or the expertise and, 2) the 75 crank had only 12K miles.

As usual, all your opinions, comments and helpful hints will be gladly appreciated. I want to get my old 72 back on the road and take it to the Vintage Yamaha Rally this year in September! BTW, there were 23 XS's at the VYR in 2019. In 2021 and 2022, I saw 5 at most. Come on you new guys, go there and show off your 650s.

Oh, and hello to my old forum friends.
Welcome back! Start a thread on your overhaul?
 
Just when you think stuff is starting to go well..... Last time I switched my bike on, the indicators worked perfectly. Today, the right side indicators don't work. Left side indicators, fine. Neither front nor back on the right side are working. I have touched nothing. Time to look inside the left side switch gear again I think.

Can anyone tell me, am I going to have any issues pulling the indicator left/right switch apart? As in bits flying everywhere across the garage when I take a screw out? I suspect the switch because the left side is fine and both right side flashers have stopped working.
 
Could just be a wire loose or a blown indicator bulb??? Switch is easy to take apart, the big issue is to not bend the wires much because they can easily break at the solder joints.
 
Last edited:
Could just be a wire loose or a blown indicator bulb??? Switch is easy to take apart, the bit issue is to not bend the wires much because they can easily break at the solder joints.
Thanks Paul. It's a load independent flasher relay so it would work just fine on one bulb if one had blown. Hence me thinking there's an issue with the switch. I have inspected the switch previously and lubricated it. But I think I have to open it up properly to look at the contacts. It is possible the wire has come adrift. I'll look at it in the morning now.
 
It is possible the wire has come adrift. I'll look at it in the morning now.
That's actually pretty common with these old switches. Iirc, two of the three solder joints had failed on mine. A bit of a pain to resolder... but doable.
 
Although I wasn’t due for an oil change, I was anxious to try out a different oil, with the goal of reducing clutch drag. Ever since I’ve owned the bike, I have run BelRay EXL 20W50 mineral oil. I decided to try Shell Rotella T4, 15W40 (JASO, MA2). I dropped the sump plate and was pleased there was only dirty oil in there and no plastic or metal bits on the sump screen. Similarly, the pleated filter was just dirty and no extra bits were stuck to it.

After the change, I went for a spin and tried to work the clutch a lot to squeeze out the 20W50 and work in the 15W40. After riding it until the engine was hot, I tried shifting to neutral. I still can’t do it from a standstill but it “appeared” to be easier when rolling to a stop. I didn’t notice any significant increase in valve train noise as reported by others.

Much more riding is needed to see if the viscosity change has really benefited me, but so far the results are encouraging. The other good thing is the cost per oil change is lower and the 5L jug will take care of two changes for me.

View attachment 331757View attachment 331758
Hey?
Can I ask a silly question?? Where did you find that oil filter screen ??? That looks so much better than stock !
Thanks 😊
Nick
 
Thanks Paul. It's a load independent flasher relay so it would work just fine on one bulb if one had blown. Hence me thinking there's an issue with the switch. I have inspected the switch previously and lubricated it. But I think I have to open it up properly to look at the contacts. It is possible the wire has come adrift. I'll look at it in the morning now.
I'll put money on a solder blob coming loose. Always best to work over a cookie sheet when doing fiddly bits like this. Done these so many times I don't bother removing the control from the bike anymore, with care you can do it working with it hanging from the handlebar by it's harness.... bit of flux a well warmed solder pencil tinned with some solder, touch a bit till the blob re-forms on the switch, done. Keeping the wire/blob on the switch when you remove the pencil 'til the solder cools is the trick.
 
Back
Top