What have you done to your XS today?

Although I wasn’t due for an oil change, I was anxious to try out a different oil, with the goal of reducing clutch drag. Ever since I’ve owned the bike, I have run BelRay EXL 20W50 mineral oil. I decided to try Shell Rotella T4, 15W40 (JASO, MA2). I dropped the sump plate and was pleased there was only dirty oil in there and no plastic or metal bits on the sump screen. Similarly, the pleated filter was just dirty and no extra bits were stuck to it.

After the change, I went for a spin and tried to work the clutch a lot to squeeze out the 20W50 and work in the 15W40. After riding it until the engine was hot, I tried shifting to neutral. I still can’t do it from a standstill but it “appeared” to be easier when rolling to a stop. I didn’t notice any significant increase in valve train noise as reported by others.

Much more riding is needed to see if the viscosity change has really benefited me, but so far the results are encouraging. The other good thing is the cost per oil change is lower and the 5L jug will take care of two changes for me.

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I had the same issue with clutch drag. I tried all the adjustments, cable routing and then I took the clutch to pieces. The clutch springs were the wrong specification and were too heavy and were becoming coil bound and unable to compress to end of the lever movement. ....Somebodies idea of "upgrading" the springs. replacing the springs improved but didnt totally solve the issue. I solved the issue by replacing the friction plates and plain plates although when comparing the two sets, I couldn't see a difference ( using vernier calipers). Now I get neutral ok but not super easy. I sometimes have to blip the throttle to clear the plates because they still drag a little.
 
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Gettin' There
What I call the Galt bike is out of the workshop, but not done yet. I have to diagnose why the headlight doesn't work, hook up the brake light switches etc., but it starts and drives.
 
Hi bosco, Your right side petcock is partially blocked. Buy a new tap or clean the tap throughly with carb cleaner and replace the gasket/rubber with a new kit. Jay
Update, I checked both petcocks and they are flowing quite freely. While I was in the neighbourhood, I removed my Uni filters, washed them out and will oil and reinstall them tomorrow. Fresh plugs too.
 
One of those rare "too hot to do much" days today.

Easily fixed the non working right side indicators. Dark green wire bullet had pulled out of the female 4 way bullet connector. Gently squeezed the female connector and the male bullet went home nice and snug. If only everything was that simple to fix ;)
Maybe your "bullet" is a little too small.
 
Update, I checked both petcocks and they are flowing quite freely. While I was in the neighbourhood, I removed my Uni filters, washed them out and will oil and reinstall them tomorrow. Fresh plugs too.
Just a thought ? Your carb rack on the manifold boots tight?
Any leaks at the manifold rubbers?
Good luck !
 
Painted the tank and rear fender to match my Tacoma. I plan to paint the frame the same color and maybe a decal on the tank later this year. I thought the color came out fairly nice. I used a company called 2K . They put the paint code in a spray can for me and sold me a 3 part system primer base and clear ,which had an activator in it that had to be added internally before use. Anyways just thought I'd share some progress. I've been doing a lot of the stuff I wanted to do when I first assembled it last year but didn't get to do to needing to have it road ready by a scheduled date I had plans on. Furthermore I e changed a few things I didn't know I wanted to until I looked at it all together.
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Update, I checked both petcocks and they are flowing quite freely. While I was in the neighbourhood, I removed my Uni filters, washed them out and will oil and reinstall them tomorrow. Fresh plugs too.
well done bosco, glad it was not the right hand petcock causing your plug colour symptoms. It will be interesting to see if the changes affect the plug colour. could be a small air leak on the intake manifolds after your hot run warmed every thing up. I seem to remember the tick over was changed too?
 
Painted the tank and rear fender to match my Tacoma. I plan to paint the frame the same color and maybe a decal on the tank later this year. I thought the color came out fairly nice. I used a company called 2K . They put the paint code in a spray can for me and sold me a 3 part system primer base and clear ,which had an activator in it that had to be added internally before use. Anyways just thought I'd share some progress. I've been doing a lot of the stuff I wanted to do when I first assembled it last year but didn't get to do to needing to have it road ready by a scheduled date I had plans on. Furthermore I e changed a few things I didn't know I wanted to until I looked at it all together.View attachment 332477View attachment 332478View attachment 332477View attachment 332478View attachment 332479View attachment 332480View attachment 332481View attachment 332482View attachment 332483View attachment 332484View attachment 332485View attachment 332486
Hey @Jim; some young punk is coming for ya!
 
Got my NOS starter safety relay off EBay. I love how a NOS part smells, like an old time parts house. Not like an Autozone or any of the chain stores. I’m talking the one like you would go to when you were a kid or the old Mom and Pop.
 

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Double score today! Intake boots and a few other misc parts for the bobber showed today. Too bad I’m leaving again on Monday. Wife’s got us running all over the next couple months but yes, I’d like to get that done as it puts a finishing touch on that bike that I wasn’t enthused about when I was totally unable to ride. Now I’m getting into short jaunts and the season is quickly dwindling.
 
Chasing more oil leaks under the engine. Replaced the copper washers under the two dome nuts, but there wasn't an obvious problem with the ones I removed. Torqued the nuts to 14.5lb ft. There's a drip again from the starter drive gears cover. I have already put a new gasket on there and checked the screws are tight. But there's still a leak. I struggle to see the gasket leaking, I'll have to take the left side engine cover off to see if it's running down from the sprocket area or somewhere.

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Pulled the left side engine case off to look closer at the starter gear cover oil leak. Front sprocket nut found finger tight. What a shame I didn't pick that up when I was in there earlier. Not to worry. Everything is in order but I'll have to buy a 36mm socket to tighten it up.

Is there anything else I need to check here, or is it just tightening up the nut with the tab washer that's required?

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Chasing more oil leaks under the engine. Replaced the copper washers under the two dome nuts, but there wasn't an obvious problem with the ones I removed. Torqued the nuts to 14.5lb ft. There's a drip again from the starter drive gears cover. I have already put a new gasket on there and checked the screws are tight. But there's still a leak. I struggle to see the gasket leaking, I'll have to take the left side engine cover off to see if it's running down from the sprocket area or somewhere.

If the leak at a copper washer continues, you may want to anneal them.
 
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