What have you done to your XS today?

A little of this and little of that. Dan claims it's running smoother now.
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Pulled Taffy (XS650) out for a wash and brush up. A quick spin around the block a few times to warm up; ran perfectly?! Still need to dig and find the hot misfire issue.
The Brat (R1200GS) had all its tupperware and tin-ware reinstalled following ABS removal; now the Nazi ba$tard will crank but no start.
Merlin (GL1000) carbs are rebuilt again, but I will test off bike for leaks before install.

Workshop now has power, and I installed 1 LED Strip light over the workbench and 4 LED panels on the ceiling; "Let there be light" someone once said.
Panels need a bit of alignment, but I ran out of time. Makes a huge difference though. And I can make a cup of tea when I like!

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Not much bike time presently but pleased with a set of Tourmax inlet rubbers that were described as new, and they are. Less than half the price I've seen them anywhere else and they have the magic letters ARS in the moulded rubber so they should be OEM quality. They certainly look like it.

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well done badlegbill.:cheers:
So today i confessed my shame and took a fresh look at the carbs with satisfactory results.
primary, secondary and air jets are clean, the same sizes and in their proper places finally.
Set the butterflies by eye and did not have to adjust when on the bike. There is a first time for every thing.
It idles solidly but is a bit slow coming back down to idle so probably a little lean.
Need to grind most of the handle off my adjustment stubby because of clashes with the petcock.
I know I could lift the tank but I could also make a tool that lets me adjust the fuel screws with the engine at normal temperature without needing to disturb anything else.
Next I took the fork top adjusters out cleaned and greased them so that I now have three positions I can set and while I was there I bounced the forks so that I knew they were straight before messing with the suspension settings which currently give me 10mm static sag and 40mm seated on the forks which I can live with and puts my cable/zip tie in the middle third under hard breaking. Not yet got the oil warm so don't know how the numbers and feel will change
The same springs were bottoming regularly, I have previously given notice that I am a larger than usual gentleman at 270 lbs, now I have proper numbers for the front end with the original springs and slightly more than the recommended amount of oil to increase compression damping; have to see how the seals hold up under the higher pressures.
Looking forward to finding out how it sits and rides now.
It just occurred to me to put a ball of clay on the top of the back tyre to check clearance under load before hooning.
 
So today i confessed my shame and took a fresh look at the carbs with satisfactory results.
primary, secondary and air jets are clean, the same sizes and in their proper places finally.
Set the butterflies by eye and did not have to adjust when on the bike. There is a first time for every thing.
It idles solidly but is a bit slow coming back down to idle so probably a little lean.
Need to grind most of the handle off my adjustment stubby because of clashes with the petcock.
I know I could lift the tank but I could also make a tool that lets me adjust the fuel screws with the engine at normal temperature without needing to disturb anything else.
Next I took the fork top adjusters out cleaned and greased them so that I now have three positions I can set and while I was there I bounced the forks so that I knew they were straight before messing with the suspension settings which currently give me 10mm static sag and 40mm seated on the forks which I can live with and puts my cable/zip tie in the middle third under hard breaking. Not yet got the oil warm so don't know how the numbers and feel will change
The same springs were bottoming regularly, I have previously given notice that I am a larger than usual gentleman at 270 lbs, now I have proper numbers for the front end with the original springs and slightly more than the recommended amount of oil to increase compression damping; have to see how the seals hold up under the higher pressures.
Looking forward to finding out how it sits and rides now.
It just occurred to me to put a ball of clay on the top of the back tyre to check clearance under load before hooning.
Hi badlegbill: from your write up, it sounds like you know what you are doing. A lot of knowledge. Is that genuine "It idles solidly but is a bit slow coming back down to idle so probably a little lean." ?
At 270lb, you are too heavy for the heavyweight division of the UFC, need to lose 5lb to qualify. Enjoy your ride.:)
 
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Hi badlegbill: from your write up, it sounds like you know what you are doing. A lot of knowledge. Is that genuine "It idles solidly but is a bit slow coming back down to idle so probably a little lean." ?
At 270lb, you are too heavy for the heavyweight division of the UFC, need to lose 5lb to qualify. Enjoy your ride.:)


That is why some of my posts are about suspension.
The rest is based on making 70 years worth of mistakes.

Oh yes, basic idle tuning to within "pretty good", if you have similar compression based on how much effort it takes to push through the resistance of the kickstart, balance the air draw with a gauge or just setting the butterflies to show the light through them or allow a piece of paper to move, set both mixture screws the same, ask or check the manual.
If you are lucky you can warm it up so it idles, throttle to 2 or 3 k from idle for 2 or 3 seconds then return throttle to idle.

If it hangs on to revs before returning to idle - too lean ( or you need to check throttle return )
If revs drop below idle speed before recovering - too rich ( or check the diaphragms)

If this doesn't work you probably have an air leak or dirty jet or something.

By the way if you haven't done this already make one of these so you can set mixtures easily, it works on recessed jets too, by the way the drill is to tidy it up, you make it with a grinder initially.

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I find the something the interesting bit.
 
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Very busy night last after a load of parts turned up yesterday. Firstly, fitted a new ATU and got the timing sorted, that’s in another thread.

Next I got the carbs balanced (though they were very close to begin with) using a home made manometer.

Checked the float levels using the clear tube method attached to the base of the bowls, both spot on 2mm below the joints.

As it was all warmed up I next did a second oil change and checked both filter/strainers.

The reason for a second change was because during the first oil change a couple of weeks ago I found lots of little clumps of fibres in the filter. Close inspection they seemed to be oil soaked paper towel fibres, I can only surmise that when the PO had the engine apart they had used some to plug the oil pipes and had left a little bit in while re-assembling. Also found some metal swarf/filings and a bit of black “plastic” in the sump strainer. This last was a false alarm, a closer look revealed it to be a bit of gasket from the strainer plate!

There was plenty of black sludge at the bottom of the plate and the back drain plug was missing the copper sealing washer (the front one looked rather worn out too). I had some new 30mm ID copper washers (pack of 5 ordered from a hydraulic company), when they arrived I was a bit disappointed with the quality control as they were a little bent, one was definitely more oval than round so had to sort that out.

Last nights oil change went much smoother, both filters were clean(ish) and no sign of any foreign bits. The old oil was remarkably dark considering it had only been in for a couple of weeks and had done maybe 50 miles plus a few engine runs in the garage to sort the timing!

All good now, next job for the weekend will be servicing the clutch worm drive to try and sort the difficult shifting when hot (a quick adjustment sorted the dragging clutch when hot but I think it needs more travel to change gear and find neutral more easily).

Fun times!
 
. . . The old oil was remarkably dark considering it had only been in for a couple of weeks and had done maybe 50 miles plus a few engine runs in the garage to sort the timing! . . .

Just guessing here, but the new oil was washing out a lot of sludge from when the old oil was there?n Good progress and you're certainly getting to know the bike better!
 
That is why some of my posts are about suspension.
The rest is based on making 70 years worth of mistakes.

Oh yes, basic idle tuning to within "pretty good", if you have similar compression based on how much effort it takes to push through the resistance of the kickstart, balance the air draw with a gauge or just setting the butterflies to show the light through them or allow a piece of paper to move, set both mixture screws the same, ask or check the manual.
If you are lucky you can warm it up so it idles, throttle to 2 or 3 k from idle for 2 or 3 seconds then return throttle to idle.

If it hangs on to revs before returning to idle - too lean ( or you need to check throttle return )
If revs drop below idle speed before recovering - too rich ( or check the diaphragms)

If this doesn't work you probably have an air leak or dirty jet or something.

By the way if you haven't done this already make one of these so you can set mixtures easily, it works on recessed jets too, by the way the drill is to tidy it up, you make it with a grinder initially.

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I find the something the interesting bit.
Thanks for the information, badlegbill. :)
 
Yes, several oil changes and filter cleanings in quick succession are usually required when you first get one of these to clean out all the sludge build up. This is due to P.O. neglect and not doing frequent enough oil changes and filter cleanings. It took me about half a dozen changes before the filters started coming out relatively clean. I still check and clean the filters at every change. I have extra side filters and sump plates w/ filters so swapping in clean ones is quick and easy. Then I can clean the removed filters "at my leisure", lol, and have them ready for the next change.
 
Last weekend I checked valve clearances and when I pulled the plugs, right cylinder indicated a lean condition. Thought my carb holders were to blame as they were cracked all over the outside. So yesterday I took out the carbs to clean and found 2 screws loose on the right side diaphragm cover and Left side airbox clamp was missing its screw. Cleaned the carbs, replaced the screws on both carbs with some alan head ones, replaced carb holders and gaskets, and replaced the missing airbox clamp screw. The bike runs way smoother now, feels fantastic.
I had initially set the mixture screws at 3 1/4 but after a ride last night, it seemed to get hot at lights pretty quick so I went to 3 1/2 and it seems to be better.
Last night I had some more parts come in, so this morning I installed new speedo and tach cables after some lube, replaced the alternator brushes because I was having some charging issues. Old ones were worn decent and i assume they were the oem ones. I also lubed and readjusted my clutch, installed new plugs so I can accurately gauge how its running now.
Went on a cruise and stopped for a hotdog.
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Did the bike shuffle today.
Needed to put the Green 77 on the hyd. ramp so I could clean it for a show and shine on Saturday.
My mates reckon its good enough for that but I feel like a bit of wanker doing it.
Its a bike show in an old mill on the docks at Port Adelaide - a great setting. Its hosted by the Veteran and Vintage bike clubs and festivities run for about a week.
I will try to get some pics of it.
In the meantime some pickies of the shuffle.
Regards Ray.
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