What have you done to your XS today?

[Tiggertoo]

Very busy night last after a load of parts turned up yesterday. Firstly, fitted a new ATU and got the timing sorted, that’s in another thread.

Next I got the carbs balanced (though they were very close to begin with) using a home made manometer.

Checked the float levels using the clear tube method attached to the base of the bowls, both spot on 2mm below the joints.

As it was all warmed up I next did a second oil change and checked both filter/strainers.

The reason for a second change was because during the first oil change a couple of weeks ago I found lots of little clumps of fibres in the filter. Close inspection they seemed to be oil soaked paper towel fibres, I can only surmise that when the PO had the engine apart they had used some to plug the oil pipes and had left a little bit in while re-assembling. Also found some metal swarf/filings and a bit of black “plastic” in the sump strainer. This last was a false alarm, a closer look revealed it to be a bit of gasket from the strainer plate!

There was plenty of black sludge at the bottom of the plate and the back drain plug was missing the copper sealing washer (the front one looked rather worn out too). I had some new 30mm ID copper washers (pack of 5 ordered from a hydraulic company), when they arrived I was a bit disappointed with the quality control as they were a little bent, one was definitely more oval than round so had to sort that out.

Last nights oil change went much smoother, both filters were clean(ish) and no sign of any foreign bits. The old oil was remarkably dark considering it had only been in for a couple of weeks and had done maybe 50 miles plus a few engine runs in the garage to sort the timing!

All good now, next job for the weekend will be servicing the clutch worm drive to try and sort the difficult shifting when hot (a quick adjustment sorted the dragging clutch when hot but I think it needs more travel to change gear and find neutral more easily).

Fun times!

 

[Raymond]

. . . The old oil was remarkably dark considering it had only been in for a couple of weeks and had done maybe 50 miles plus a few engine runs in the garage to sort the timing! . . .

Just guessing here, but the new oil was washing out a lot of sludge from when the old oil was there?n Good progress and you're certainly getting to know the bike better!

 

[jaybar6]

That is why some of my posts are about suspension.
The rest is based on making 70 years worth of mistakes.

Oh yes, basic idle tuning to within "pretty good", if you have similar compression based on how much effort it takes to push through the resistance of the kickstart, balance the air draw with a gauge or just setting the butterflies to show the light through them or allow a piece of paper to move, set both mixture screws the same, ask or check the manual.
If you are lucky you can warm it up so it idles, throttle to 2 or 3 k from idle for 2 or 3 seconds then return throttle to idle.

If it hangs on to revs before returning to idle - too lean ( or you need to check throttle return )
If revs drop below idle speed before recovering - too rich ( or check the diaphragms)

If this doesn't work you probably have an air leak or dirty jet or something.

By the way if you haven't done this already make one of these so you can set mixtures easily, it works on recessed jets too, by the way the drill is to tidy it up, you make it with a grinder initially.

View attachment 336838View attachment 336839View attachment 336837

I find the something the interesting bit.

Thanks for the information, badlegbill.

 

[5twins]

Yes, several oil changes and filter cleanings in quick succession are usually required when you first get one of these to clean out all the sludge build up. This is due to P.O. neglect and not doing frequent enough oil changes and filter cleanings. It took me about half a dozen changes before the filters started coming out relatively clean. I still check and clean the filters at every change. I have extra side filters and sump plates w/ filters so swapping in clean ones is quick and easy. Then I can clean the removed filters "at my leisure", lol, and have them ready for the next change.

 

[SoCalHanz]

Last weekend I checked valve clearances and when I pulled the plugs, right cylinder indicated a lean condition. Thought my carb holders were to blame as they were cracked all over the outside. So yesterday I took out the carbs to clean and found 2 screws loose on the right side diaphragm cover and Left side airbox clamp was missing its screw. Cleaned the carbs, replaced the screws on both carbs with some alan head ones, replaced carb holders and gaskets, and replaced the missing airbox clamp screw. The bike runs way smoother now, feels fantastic.
I had initially set the mixture screws at 3 1/4 but after a ride last night, it seemed to get hot at lights pretty quick so I went to 3 1/2 and it seems to be better.
Last night I had some more parts come in, so this morning I installed new speedo and tach cables after some lube, replaced the alternator brushes because I was having some charging issues. Old ones were worn decent and i assume they were the oem ones. I also lubed and readjusted my clutch, installed new plugs so I can accurately gauge how its running now.
Went on a cruise and stopped for a hotdog.

 

[LTGTR]

Did the bike shuffle today.
Needed to put the Green 77 on the hyd. ramp so I could clean it for a show and shine on Saturday.
My mates reckon its good enough for that but I feel like a bit of wanker doing it.
Its a bike show in an old mill on the docks at Port Adelaide - a great setting. Its hosted by the Veteran and Vintage bike clubs and festivities run for about a week.
I will try to get some pics of it.
In the meantime some pickies of the shuffle.
Regards Ray.

 

[atom4488]

Did the bike shuffle today.
Needed to put the Green 77 on the hyd. ramp so I could clean it for a show and shine on Saturday.
My mates reckon its good enough for that but I feel like a bit of wanker doing it.
Its a bike show in an old mill on the docks at Port Adelaide - a great setting. Its hosted by the Veteran and Vintage bike clubs and festivities run for about a week.
I will try to get some pics of it.
In the meantime some pickies of the shuffle.
Regards Ray.View attachment 336982

That's beautiful, just love that colour scheme!

 

[Its been a long time]

No spare time for bike projects at the moment. In any case, 2024 is a write off now for riding a bike. Probably late next March or April before I think about a ride now. Got the final piece of the jigsaw in the post today to fit the CVK34 carbs to the bike. 6 x 8 x 6mm Y type fuel tube adapter to connect the 2x XS650 6mm fuel taps to the 1x 8mm fuel inlet on the carburettors.

 

[lakeview]

Solving My XS650s' "range anxiety"
Joining the stable is a 2014 FJR with front and back sliders and an Ivan's reflash. Sure miss not seeing the front wheel!
But rode the '77 to an intown appointment today.

 

[SoCalHanz]

Installed a new throttle cable and braided stainless brake hose. Crazy difference compared to the stock brake hose.

 

[Zonie]

When I got my 76 XS it had been sitting for some time. The previous owner had passed, and it was left outside. Been slowly picking at it and just got a good used front wheel. The original had a lot of corrosion due to the bike sitting and slowly sinking into the dirt. Just waiting on new bearings and seals for the wheels. As I wait I'm polishing.

 

[NP2650]

Got done refurbishing another early headlight/turn signal switch assembly. The bike this belongs to hasn't arrived yet (HaulBikes is foot dragging on this one), but I got some parts shipped to me ahead of time so I got started on what I had. I'll do a thread on this bike when it arrives. Anyway, before and after pics. It came out really nice.

 

[Mailman]

Got done refurbishing another early headlight/turn signal switch assembly. Anyway, before and after pics. It came out really nice!

Man! I’ll say it did! That’s some beautiful work right there!

 

[badlegbill]

Today I have been playing with my carbs, Red ran OK enough to warm up the suspension oil and confirm that I was heading in the right direction. There was no doubt that without a spacer I need the adjuster on the fork nut in the lowest position.
If i go to the trouble of making spacers, or getting someone to do it properly I will change the old worn items with new tops with 15 position adjusters hidden by rubber buttons.
Not what I want to talk about though, OK is not good enough so back to the carbs. This side of the pond we have a word "bollocks", for example somebody saying "You have to set things exactly per the book" is talking bollocks. Those of us who have played with abused elderly vehicles know that they haven't read the book.
Most manuals, for example skip the basic steps necessary to start from scratch, try looking up how to set the floats back to their original position. Without doing that the instructions on setting float heights confuse you when both floats sit at differing heights. Do you set the higher one or the lower one, do you match their heights by adjusting the floats. In either case the quoted float heights become only a starting point?
Reality is your best guide most of the time.
So, since setting float bowl fuel levels (which is what you are supposed to be doing) is a bitch, even if you know to take the chain adjuster cover nut off to make removing the carbs easier, Start with a static jig, which in my house is an old Rekord vice, and some clear tubing.
Since you need to remove the float bowls to adjust only do two screws or allen keys up between tries, there will be several tries.
Your goal is to set the fuel level as per the book, see it was worth getting one.
Once you have set the level static then you can put them back on the bike and check dynamic levels. if you are patient enough to have clean and sorted carbs they should be close to right ,if not identify the issue and fix it before trying again, it is probably a flow issue.
Run each carb long enough to fill the same container and time it.
If you don't have a suitable jig it is not difficult to screw some bits of wood together and definitely worth the time it takes.
My issue turned out to be different length fuel needle valves, I assume a po just bought 1 new one and didn't check.

Note that you will need a decent head of fuel, 15 inches is enough, or you will not be testing the fuel valves correctly.
I use a soda bottle with vent holes half way down, filled less than half way. Fill to about a third and attach to fuel pipe then put your finger over the vent holes and turn upside down to get realistic level.

 

[cycleranger]

Went for a ride the other day. First time I've had the bike out since May.
About half way through my fifty mile ride I looked down and noticed the left side cover was flopping a bit.
I reached down and the knob an spring were missing. Pulled over and checked it out. I assumed it fell off somewhere on the road.
I get back home and roll back into the shop. I put the bike on the center stand and look down and there's the knob on the floor!
Well damn, whatta ya' know. Well there's no way I'll find the spring, oh wait there it is over there.
So anyway, I got lucky there. I used a bit of epoxy and reattached the knob and put all back together.
Hopefully it will hold.

 

[bazz]

Gave my toolbox a citric acid bath to get rid of all the rust
And made the brackets to fit it

 

[Tiggertoo]

Not had to do much other than polishing some bits n pieces, oh and replaced the back wheel undertray screws that looked a bit chewed. Used a couple of stainless bolts instead as its much easier to get a socket on them than a screwdriver. One thing that may be of interest to others is that I came across a really good workshop manual for 74-77 models with excellent pictures (I've seen a lot of folks complaining about the picture quality in most online manuals).
Be warned though, it is a BIG (350+Mb) download so may take a minute or two. Probably because of the good quality images.
https://nealzkustomz.wordpress.com/...ce-manual-1974-77-tx650a-xs650b-xs650c-xs.pdf
These are by far the best quality pictures I've seen online.
Maybe a link should be added to the Tech Reference thread?

 

[bosco659]

I recently noticed the rubber stopper for my center stand had worn down and the stand was almost rubbing on the bottom of the muffler. Rather than replace it with what I had before, I tried cobbling a new piece to attach to the remnants of the old one. This summer I bought some fairly dense, double side foam rubber pads from China. They had 3M adhesive on both sides of the pad. One thickness didn’t appear to provide enough cushion so I doubled them up. I figured the one sticky side would adhere to the rubber on the kickstand, but what to do with the other sticky side which would rest against the muffler. I looked in my stash and found some 3M, high temp tape. It looks like a fibreglass material? I know it has great heat resistance. I stuck a few rows onto the rubber pad, trimmed it a bit at stuck it on the kickstand.

Looks ok and seems to cushion well. Time will tell if it wears ok.

 

[badlegbill]

Today I have been playing with my carbs, Red ran OK enough to warm up the suspension oil and confirm that I was heading in the right direction. There was no doubt that without a spacer I need the adjuster on the fork nut in the lowest position.
If i go to the trouble of making spacers, or getting someone to do it properly I will change the old worn items with new tops with 15 position adjusters hidden by rubber buttons.
Not what I want to talk about though, OK is not good enough so back to the carbs. This side of the pond we have a word "bollocks", for example somebody saying "You have to set things exactly per the book" is talking bollocks. Those of us who have played with abused elderly vehicles know that they haven't read the book.
Most manuals, for example skip the basic steps necessary to start from scratch, try looking up how to set the floats back to their original position. Without doing that the instructions on setting float heights confuse you when both floats sit at differing heights. Do you set the higher one or the lower one, do you match their heights by adjusting the floats. In either case the quoted float heights become only a starting point?
Reality is your best guide most of the time.
So, since setting float bowl fuel levels (which is what you are supposed to be doing) is a bitch, even if you know to take the chain adjuster cover nut off to make removing the carbs easier, Start with a static jig, which in my house is an old Rekord vice, and some clear tubing.
Since you need to remove the float bowls to adjust only do two screws or allen keys up between tries, there will be several tries.
Your goal is to set the fuel level as per the book, see it was worth getting one.
Once you have set the level static then you can put them back on the bike and check dynamic levels. if you are patient enough to have clean and sorted carbs they should be close to right ,if not identify the issue and fix it before trying again, it is probably a flow issue.
Run each carb long enough to fill the same container and time it.
If you don't have a suitable jig it is not difficult to screw some bits of wood together and definitely worth the time it takes.
My issue turned out to be different length fuel needle valves, I assume a po just bought 1 new one and didn't check.

Note that you will need a decent head of fuel, 15 inches is enough, or you will not be testing the fuel valves correctly.
I use a soda bottle with vent holes half way down, filled less than half way. Fill to about a third and attach to fuel pipe then put your finger over the vent holes and turn upside down to get realistic level.

Ok they appear ready to fit, they have been sitting for 2 hours in the image and both sides remain at roughly the same level when set within 1 or 2 mm of the book level.
I only hope that the bike agrees.
Along the way the left carb would sometimes shut off and sometimes leak at fast or slow rates.
As I mentioned above the fuel needle valve was a different length so that got blamed , new o ring, clean the seat, run a 2mm drill bit gently against the orifice and rebuild.
Four goes later leak reappeared, substituted valve seat, same problem.
Substituted float pin and hey ho no more leaks over 10 set ups, when left for 2 hours left carb elevated level at +2mm. I can live with that.

There are problems persistence won't solve but you won't know until you try.

 

[gentlemanjim]

I bolted a Honda XL250 to the steering stem.