What have you done to your XS today?

[Raymond]

You need to remove the fuel pipes and vacuum pipes if fitted. If the rubber bungs have become stiff with age, might need to wiggle the back end of the tank while pulling back and up. +1 to greasing the rubber pucks and the brackets on the tank before replacing.

 

[Camp Cook]

Lift the rear of the tank off of the post where you removed the bolt. Not too high but just enough to clear the post. Wiggle the back of the tank side to side while applying a pulling force rearward. Easier to do with an empty tank. There’s two rubber pucks that engage into pockets in the frame. They are probably stuck from age. When reassembling, grease the pucks and post for easier re/re next time.

This is for a ‘76 but I believe the ‘80 is similar, maybe differing at the rear tank bolt.

Tank and side panels are off and at the paint shop

thank you for the advise

now I'm trying to find a post I made on this site about the turn signals do not work but can't find it.

 

[Frank Falcon]

I modified my Kickstarter lever by adapting a bicycle pedal in place of the little round shaft with the rubber on it. Sorry I didn't take a picture of it, but if someone asks I'll add one later

 

[bosco659]

Getting ready to Evaporust my tank again. I cleaned it last week, got it dry as I could, then thought I’d let it dry overnight before swishing around some oil to protect the tank. Big mistake as the darn thing flash rusted. The rust is very light and spotty but I’ll feel better doing it over again. I don’t want to contaminate my newly rebuilt petcocks so I made a couple of block off plates. For temp washers on the screws I used faucet washers. Problem is I couldn’t find my stash of gasket material. I’ll have to hunt for it tomorrow. I know I kept pieces of inner tube but they were nowhere to be found.

 

[Frank Falcon]

Cardboard from a cereal box works pretty good as gasket material in a pinch. I've used it with good results. Put the shiny side towards the liquid. Good luck

 

[Frank Falcon]

Here are pictures of the Kickstarter I modified. The first picture shows what I cut off of the Kickstarter.

 

[bosco659]

Cardboard from a cereal box works pretty good as gasket material in a pinch. I've used it with good results. Put the shiny side towards the liquid. Good luck

Thanks, I was thinking of alternative materials. I rummaged around last night and found a box clearly marked “inner tube” right on the top of my shelf in my basement shop. I snipped off a couple of pieces and made some gaskets so I think I’m back in the game.

 

[magoo66]

Still gathering some small old m/c parts worth the $ while others sleep.

Still gathering some small old m/c parts worth the $ while others sleep.

Whoops,TMI I’m sure.Magoo ya done it again.

 

[bosco659]

Getting ready to Evaporust my tank again. I cleaned it last week, got it dry as I could, then thought I’d let it dry overnight before swishing around some oil to protect the tank. Big mistake as the darn thing flash rusted. The rust is very light and spotty but I’ll feel better doing it over again. I don’t want to contaminate my newly rebuilt petcocks so I made a couple of block off plates. For temp washers on the screws I used faucet washers. Problem is I couldn’t find my stash of gasket material. I’ll have to hunt for it tomorrow. I know I kept pieces of inner tube but they were nowhere to be found.

View attachment 343359View attachment 343360

I’m getting ready to do the Evaporust thing again. It should be quick because it’s only a super light rust that’s on some parts of the tank from flashing. Once I rinse the Evaporust out, how can I dry it quickly, avoiding rust again before spraying it with oil? The darned thing rusted so quickly last time. I’m rather surprised because all other times I’ve used Evaporust, the surface remained quite resistant without additional treatment.

I was just thinking, maybe last time it wasn’t really dry and humidity levels in the tank were high enough for the rust to form overnight? I think this time I’ll try running a hair drier on very low heat ( or maybe no heat) to dry it quickly then add oil right away.

Any other suggestions?

 

[Bob Wegman]

I’m getting ready to do the Evaporust thing again. It should be quick because it’s only a super light rust that’s on some parts of the tank from flashing. Once I rinse the Evaporust out, how can I dry it quickly, avoiding rust again before spraying it with oil? The darned thing rusted so quickly last time. I’m rather surprised because all other times I’ve used Evaporust, the surface remained quite resistant without additional treatment.

I was just thinking, maybe last time it wasn’t really dry and humidity levels in the tank were high enough for the rust to form overnight? I think this time I’ll try running a hair drier on very low heat ( or maybe no heat) to dry it quickly then add oil right away.

Any other suggestions?

I would go with the hair dryer. I derusted a tank using a POR15 kit and they recommended using a hair dryer and it worked for me.

 

[bosco659]

I would go with the hair dryer. I derusted a tank using a POR15 kit and they recommended using a hair dryer and it worked for me.

Thx. Did you use higher heat or cool just for the air flow? I was thinking about using the discharge port from my shop vac - lots of air volume but no heat and lots of noise.

 

[Vincenthdfan]

I’m getting ready to do the Evaporust thing again. It should be quick because it’s only a super light rust that’s on some parts of the tank from flashing. Once I rinse the Evaporust out, how can I dry it quickly, avoiding rust again before spraying it with oil? The darned thing rusted so quickly last time. I’m rather surprised because all other times I’ve used Evaporust, the surface remained quite resistant without additional treatment.

I was just thinking, maybe last time it wasn’t really dry and humidity levels in the tank were high enough for the rust to form overnight? I think this time I’ll try running a hair drier on very low heat ( or maybe no heat) to dry it quickly then add oil right away.

Any other suggestions?

I thought your experience rather odd too because of times when I've used Evaporust and was in no rush to put the tank into use, I waited on the fresh water rinse and just left the Evaporust residue in the tank as a preservative. Its always worked well leaving that slight yellowish looking film behind until later when I was ready to rinse and use.

 

[Vincenthdfan]

The best way to avoid flash rust after a freshwater rinse is to toss a bottle or two of alcohol in the tank, swish it around, then carefully blow dry the remainder with a hair dryer....I say carefully because you dont want to ignite the alcohol fumes with the hair dryer.

 

[Resto_Paul]

I cut and buffed the tins and frame for my chopper this week so they're ready to go. Engine is apart now and internals out to Hugh for a rephase. I'll be blasting and cerakoting all the external portions of the engine next. Getting closer.....

 

[bosco659]

The best way to avoid flash rust after a freshwater rinse is to toss a bottle or two of alcohol in the tank, swish it around, then carefully blow dry the remainder with a hair dryer....I say carefully because you dont want to ignite the alcohol fumes with the hair dryer.

Interesting you left the Evaporust residue in the tank. Does it rinse out easily afterwards?

While rummaging around the garage I found half a jug of methyl hydrate and will swish that around if I decide to rinse the tank with water now.

Part of me says I should bite the bullet and put a liner in it now.

 

[Bob Wegman]

Thx. Did you use higher heat or cool just for the air flow? I was thinking about using the discharge port from my shop vac - lots of air volume but no heat and lots of noise.

I used the hair dryer on a low to medium heat setting.

 

[Jim]

For drying the inside of a tank, I use a heat gun on high.
I do not blow inside the tank, I heat the outside and get accelerated evaporation on the inside.

Jus' don't get so close ya scorch the paint...

 

[Vincenthdfan]

Interesting you left the Evaporust residue in the tank. Does it rinse out easily afterwards?

While rummaging around the garage I found half a jug of methyl hydrate and will swish that around if I decide to rinse the tank with water now.

Part of me says I should bite the bullet and put a liner in it now.

I've had no troubles rinsing dried product out with a garden hose.

If you did have trouble, you could always re-wet the evaporust first with a small amount of fresh evaporust, then drain, then fresh water rinse. It doesnt coagulate and I've always found it very forgiving to work with.

Just remember the alcohol rinse and warm air dry immediately thereafter to absorb and dry any remaining water residue....that is the key.

Then preserve with some two stroke oil swished around....that'll keep it rust free for as long as you need.

 

[bosco659]

I've had no troubles rinsing dried product out with a garden hose.

If you did have trouble, you could always re-wet the evaporust first with a small amount of fresh evaporust, then drain, then fresh water rinse. It doesnt coagulate and I've always found it very forgiving to work with.

Just remember the alcohol rinse and warm air dry immediately thereafter to absorb and dry any remaining water residue....that is the key.

Then preserve with some two stroke oil swished around....that'll keep it rust free for as long as you need.

Thanks I’ll go at it tomorrow.

If the tank is bare metal, such that it can flash rust, does keeping it full of fuel during the riding season keep the rust under control? I never had a problem with rust before and honestly was quite surprised to see a few spots when I emptied the tank this winter.

For the oil bath, I found some never to be used again 10W40. Goud enough or is there something you like about the 2 stroke oil?

 

[Jim]

If the tank is bare metal, such that it can flash rust, does keeping it full of fuel during the riding season keep the rust under control?

Keeping it topped off as much as possible is the best way. I'm sure you know all this, but as fuel burns off, the vent in the cap lets air in. Air contains moisture. When the moisture gets cooled by the fuel, it condenses to water and sinks to the bottom 'cause it's about 2 lbs/gl heavier than gas.
So the more air you keep in the tank, the more you're butting up against corrosion issues. In the hot part of summer here, humidity can climb to 90%. I'll go out of my way to try and top the bike off after every ride or every 25-30 miles of short rides to the hardware store or whatever.

Which brings me to a minor rant... those who drain their tanks in the off season. Why?!?
Gas contains practically no water. Unless you're replacing that gas with pure nitrogen, you're using the air conveniently floating around your garage. What's the humidity of that air you just let in... 25-50%. Guess what that does at night when the tank cools down? Turns to water and puddles at the bottom of the tank. That won't happen with nice pure non-ethanol gas.

Go find some premium, booze free gas and top it off when you put it to sleep. Your tank will thank you.