What have you done to your XS today?

Ok I'll take a look when I get a chance
You'll of course know the old adage of 99% of fuel problems are electrical and vice versa
Very true. I once had a situation where I'd had the fuel system apart so many times I'd lost count. Bike started, revved, sounded great. Put it in gear, fine. Start to let the clutch out, mother of all bangs in the mufflers and the engine stopped. I and others were convinced there was a fuel issue I hadn't yet found.

Eventually, I discovered it was a faulty clutch interlock switch.
 
A spare ten minutes so first coat of paint on a new sidestand. Another coat tomorrow, a few days for the paint to harden, then fit it. Existing sidestand is bodged with a piece of rebar, it works but it is horrible.

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Very true. I once had a situation where I'd had the fuel system apart so many times I'd lost count. Bike started, revved, sounded great. Put it in gear, fine. Start to let the clutch out, mother of all bangs in the mufflers and the engine stopped. I and others were convinced there was a fuel issue I hadn't yet found.

Eventually, I discovered it was a faulty clutch interlock switch.
I had a misfire in the midrange of my t140e for over a year
I was blaming the MK2 amals etc etc
In the end it turned out to be a corroded bullet connector on the pickup wires
It was the only joint I hadn't checked properly, underneath the tank FFS
 
Took the E10 fuel out of the tank and replaced it with E5 fuel. This will save me from having to drain the fuel everytime I leave the bike stationary. So far I escaped damage but I didnt want to carry on walking the tight rope. E10 fuel is in the car. Just looking at the bike, I reckon I might have that clutch to bits again since I think I might be able to get it just a bit better. I need to measure the springs on full compression and then measure them in situ with the clutch lever pulled in I am concerned about them becoming coil bound since I am pretty sure that they are pattern items. Maybe I could use plastiguage wrapped around a coil of each spring? I was going to pull the lever in and mark the position of the operating arm and compare that to the position without the springs in the clutch but that wouldnt really tell me what i want to know.
 
I'm not above stirring the paint with one too... :whistle:
Now I always tell Mrs C off for doing that; she never wipes off the excess from the driver.. :yikes:
Her other painters tip is to wrap the brush, still with paint, in cling film to use next morning; but puts in the shed for months so it’s fu(ked when I want to use it.
 
Not that my wife would pick up a paint brush, but I keep mine hidden. I buy the good ones.
I'm the painter here
Not a macho thing
She's just sloppy as hell
I'd let her help Huck Finn with a fence thats about all
 
Post retirement "freshen up" after 12 years of riding after the first "restoration". New rear tire, new front tire, new front spokes (stainless), fork seals, springs, tapered steering bearings, polishing, and some paint freshen up. The rattle can lacquer did great for about 6 years then started to go wonky. Todays agenda- cut old spokes, polish front hub and rim.
 

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Timed the engine after replacing the points and condensers on my 76 XS650. Had to enlist the help of my wife to twist the throttle as I strobed it.
Got it off the lift and started it up, let it idle and then she died. Hit the button and nothing. Messed with the ignition switch and she briefly started
then died again. I removed the starter switch assembly and sprayed some contact cleaner on to the switch. Same problem. Ideas?
 
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