There's a couple of howto's in Tech on how to disassemble, clean and reassemble the ign switch.
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What have you done to your XS today?
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There's a couple of howto's in Tech on how to disassemble, clean and reassemble the ign switch.
Eric12171
XS650 Enthusiast
Back at it finally,
Swapped in a different motor over the winter,
Starting a new seat out of a triumph seat.
Trying out the monster craft mid brackets
Xs 400 brake pedal works with a little clearancing on the exhaust.
I could have done a neater job of it, but oh well.
It is super comfortable now though
.
That was the mission.
Swapped in a different motor over the winter,
Starting a new seat out of a triumph seat.
Trying out the monster craft mid brackets
Xs 400 brake pedal works with a little clearancing on the exhaust.
I could have done a neater job of it, but oh well.
It is super comfortable now though
.That was the mission.
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I bought a triumph 5ta front mudguard yesterday
I cut the middle out and shortened it to fit the yam instead of the plastic BMW one
Incidentally if anyone is looking for a decent heavy duty stainless steel fork brace/ mudguard bracket
Just use a BMW boxer one
All you have to do is elongate the holes at the front vertically to get the mudguard blade level with the tyre
I cut the middle out and shortened it to fit the yam instead of the plastic BMW one
Incidentally if anyone is looking for a decent heavy duty stainless steel fork brace/ mudguard bracket
Just use a BMW boxer one
All you have to do is elongate the holes at the front vertically to get the mudguard blade level with the tyre
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Highly recommended. I followed this guide and I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was to clean the ignition switch. I also disassembled and cleaned the kill switch. The small detent springs inside were rotten/broken so I got some Chinesium ones which worked perfectly. Cleaning both those switches makes a big difference to system voltage drop. Well worth doing.
As the Carbs are apart waiting for new brass from Mikuni; I set about checking the ignition switch. Removal was easy from under the seat pan (Non-Standard location of course). Taking the switch apart showed up some green corrosion on the cables. Pulled the housing apart and the springs and switch plates exploded across the floor. No chance of finding those blighters. So a new on / off switch ordered to replace the iggy key switch; makes life simpler.
Also checked the tank filler cap. to make sure the breather was good. Came apart easy and all good internally on the cap.
This Kawasaki tank has been nicely hand painted (no transfers / stickers) all emblems and coach lines are paint.
Sadly I have a leak developing on the lower left hand seam which is discoloring the paint; and losing fuel.
Looking inside there seems to be a silver coating of some sort? Be good to get a borescope in there.
Not sure how to tackle this to be honest. I dont want to lose this tank or paint job as it makes the 'look' of Taffy.
I think this pipe in the base is an overflow from the tank cap area. Poked a wire up this and it seems clear of obstruction.
Petrol tap works perfectly both at 'On' and 'reserve'
All comments greatfuly recieved.
Well, that saves you the trouble of cleaning the ignition switch!
LOLSorry to see the developing fuel leak. I do know someone who can fix that without damaging the paint. But if the tank already has a failed lining it could be a tricky job. What a shame, the paint looks great
If you are still using the original kill switch and you need the small springs, I think I have a couple I can send to you.
Thanks for the offer IBALT: I dont run a bar mounted kill switch, the new On/Off switch will do that job.Well, that saves you the trouble of cleaning the ignition switch!
Sorry to see the developing fuel leak. I do know someone who can fix that without damaging the paint. But if the tank already has a failed lining it could be a tricky job. What a shame, the paint looks great
If you are still using the original kill switch and you need the small springs, I think I have a couple I can send to you.
I would however like the contact details of your tank repair guy if you could?
Understood.
Look up Jim Boulby in Lincolnshire on Facebook. He's done my 650D tank last year and also an irreplaceable Buell RS1200 tank for me. You'll find him either by name or by his other account called Fuel Tank Man. Tell him I sent you. Recently he's repaired a leaking black/gold XS650B tank for a pal locally here and he's more than happy with the result. Unfortunately at this time of the year you might find he's really busy, but he's the guy to sort that out for you. Good luck with it, I hope the failed liner in there isn't too much of an issue for you.
Thank you.
Hi IBALT,
I'm no guru with a multi meter and have no idea what +VE terminal voltage is. So I just took the following measurements:
1. Battery voltage was 13.8v (After two cranks to check compression).
2. Ignition Off:
2. Ignition On
No idea what this is telling me or whether its what you wanted?
Thanks. Looks like you have ~1v voltage drop between the battery and the ignition coil. A new ignition switch should improve that. I'm assuming all the wiring is new given that you've fitted a motogadget doo-hickey.
There's no obvious smoking gun there that I can see but ~1v loss sounds quite a lot with new wiring. (I would have thought that with a motogadget and new wiring you'd have lower voltage drop since there's no fuses etc to cause loss of volts). The higher the voltage on the ignition primary winding, the fatter the spark will be.
Also worth checking what voltage you have on the brown switched live wiring when the engine is running. Should be well north of 12v.
For reference, my 650D with 48 year old wiring, ignition switch and kill switch (both cleaned) now has a voltage drop of ~0.4v. Considerably less than you have.
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Zonie
XS650 Addict
Zonie
XS650 Addict
Well I got the switch out. It was a bit of an adventure, but it is out. Decided to look at the new switches available before digging in to mine.
Every switch I looked at, didn't match the one I have, until I saw one from a European model. How or why, I have that one is beyond me. But it is what it is.
Think I will order a new one and not bother with fixing the one I have.
Resto_Paul
XS650 Enthusiast
I pulled the carbs on my project bike completely apart yesterday...the varnish inside was like molasses and the slides were comoletely stuck. Ran them through the sonic cleaner a few times and got them spotless. Quick shot in the blasting cabinet followed by a last dip in the sonic cleaner and blowing them completely out. Then I Cerakoted the bodies and bowls today. All of the brackets, other screws, and choke parts are in the oven right now done in black Cerakote and the tops were chromed. Just waiting for new throttle shaft seals to show up and I can use the Keyster tuning kits to rebuild them fresh inside and bolt them back together next week.
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Into the tedious part of the refresh. Last few days held a lot of sanding and polishing. Fork lowers most of today. Gotta see if I have any rattle can satin black in inventory for the inside of the front hub. Stainless spoke set arrived today, hopefully I'll get the new fork seals in and the roller bearing steering neck conversion done next.
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Well, looked at my XS nearly every day as I worked on other bikes.
New to me Yamaha FJR1300 I finally tagged a few weeks ago. I got it in the dead of winter and took about 2 months to tag it. I did a few things to it over that time but did not want to change fluids until I rode it a few good rides so I could tell if I did anything wrong. Changed its oil, brake fluid and rear drive oil. Tonight I bled the brakes of 2 other bikes, '22 Bonneville and '21 Scout.
I really wanted to change the steering bearing on the XS this winter cause it was a tad notchy but did not get around to it.
Weather has had some warm days so I have been alternating the FJR and Scout for rides nearly every other day. Bonneville and XS650 are the only bikes I fogged the cylinders, stabilized the gas and left to sit for the winter.
New to me Yamaha FJR1300 I finally tagged a few weeks ago. I got it in the dead of winter and took about 2 months to tag it. I did a few things to it over that time but did not want to change fluids until I rode it a few good rides so I could tell if I did anything wrong. Changed its oil, brake fluid and rear drive oil. Tonight I bled the brakes of 2 other bikes, '22 Bonneville and '21 Scout.
I really wanted to change the steering bearing on the XS this winter cause it was a tad notchy but did not get around to it.
Weather has had some warm days so I have been alternating the FJR and Scout for rides nearly every other day. Bonneville and XS650 are the only bikes I fogged the cylinders, stabilized the gas and left to sit for the winter.
Finished sanding and polishing the front rim, laced it up with new SS spokes, notched the steering head and installed the roller bearings. After a nap, will polish and detail the brake rotor mount. Monday front rim goes to the shop for truing, new tire and balancing.
grouchie83
Just on this planet to serve the cats, apparently.
Stripped down the clutch cover and scrubbed it down in the parts tank. Interestingly, looks like someone had done some welding on the inside of it previously. So either my Dad had some welding done on it, his Dad had some welding done on it, or it's not the original cover but a replacement for when my Dad hit that deer waaaaaaaaaaay back when.
Edit: photos!
Outside looks fine...
Inside looks like a weld repair, then sanded down. Talked to my Dad, he says it's the original cover, and said it wasn't damaged in the accident. No idea. Doesn't leak or anything.
Edit: photos!
Outside looks fine...
Inside looks like a weld repair, then sanded down. Talked to my Dad, he says it's the original cover, and said it wasn't damaged in the accident. No idea. Doesn't leak or anything.
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