What have you done to your XS today?

12v coil is always going to give a fatter spark v 6v? Faraday's law of induction?

I know to little about this - But I suppose it depends on the design current. And other things.
That the bikes Voltage is 12 V .. Does not necessarily mean that there is not lower Voltage at other places in the Circuit
Connecting a 6 V rated item to a 12 V system can Typically get the Blue smoke Out with the Poff sound

If So one could consider 2 x 12 V separate coils that can work with the Boyer Instead of the dual output Boyer
Something available at lower cost locally over the Counter
 
I know to little about this - But I suppose it depends on the design current. And other things.
That the bikes Voltage is 12 V .. Does not necessarily mean that there is not lower Voltage at other places in the Circuit
Connecting a 6 V rated item to a 12 V system can Typically get the Blue smoke Out with the Poff sound

If So one could consider 2 x 12 V separate coils that can work with the Boyer Instead of the dual output Boyer
Something available at lower cost locally over the Counter
Watch out for incorrect primary winding resistance. I haven't measured my coil in the BB kit but I'd be wary of fitting stuff that is electrically incorrect.

Can two single outlet coils work same as a single double output coil? Yes.

But for the life of me I can't think of one reason why anyone would want to?

I'd start by measuring primary winding resistance of the BB kit coil. Then look for a pair of single output coils that have the same resistance when wired to 12v in parallel. That bit is going to be very important. The BB box must think it's connected to it's BB coil. Or you may get the magic smoke appearing.
 
I know to little about this - But I suppose it depends on the design current. And other things.
That the bikes Voltage is 12 V .. Does not necessarily mean that there is not lower Voltage at other places in the Circuit
Connecting a 6 V rated item to a 12 V system can Typically get the Blue smoke Out with the Poff sound

If So one could consider 2 x 12 V separate coils that can work with the Boyer Instead of the dual output Boyer
Something available at lower cost locally over the Counter
The Norton is running a Boyer with an Accel 140403 dual tower 12 volt 3.0 ohm primary coil, so far it's a great set up. I only say "so far" cuz it's not a bike I put a lot of miles on. I changed out the two coils in series to this ASAP after i got the bike.
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Either I'm getting older or they are getting heavier.
It was a sunny day so I thought I'd look for the compression that appears to have left.

Remember, if you think you can't do it you can't.
Still looking for the lost compression, at this moment I am considering checking my tester, to see if its in there.
The cheap bike I bought with 48 thousand miles on the odometer, yes miles UK spec, looks like this..
Its been a long time since I opened a motor with so little wear.
I have rubbed the piston briefly with a ScotchBrite pad.
Needs a camchain guide but I cant find anything else yet.
Valves seem to be sealing OK, cam and followers look unmarked, will look at the seats anyway.
Looks like the pretty one, 3L1 black and gold trim Special, gets the 750 barrels and the ported head, Red appears to be mechanically sound so far.
So seals,camchainguide (from spare) and new drive chain.
Wow!
I might even paint some rust converter on the frame and Simoniz it since there is some space in the budget.
 

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I'd start by measuring primary winding resistance of the BB kit coil. Then look for a pair of single output coils that have the same resistance when wired to 12v in parallel. That bit is going to be very important.
I'd be awful leery of using 2 coils in parallel.
Parallel resistance is always "smaller than the smallest." If we assume 2 coils at 3Ω, then total resistance of the two coils will be about 1.5Ω.
Add to that... current always follows the path of least resistance. So if one coil is 3.0Ω and the other is 3.2Ω, then the 3.2Ω coil will pass less current than it's sister. So unless you closely match the coil impedance, one coil will always have a weaker spark than the other.
Seems much more reasonable to me to have just the one dual output coil.

1746377930939.png
 
I'd be awful leery of using 2 coils in parallel.
Parallel resistance is always "smaller than the smallest." If we assume 2 coils at 3Ω, then total resistance of the two coils will be about 1.5Ω.
Add to that... current always follows the path of least resistance. So if one coil is 3.0Ω and the other is 3.2Ω, then the 3.2Ω coil will pass less current than it's sister. So unless you closely match the coil impedance, one coil will always have a weaker spark than the other.
Seems much more reasonable to me to have just the one dual output coil.

View attachment 349219
Yes, that's right. There's nothing fundamentally wrong in running a pair of coils instead of one. But as I said and you agree, the parts must be electrically compatible. I can't think of any reason why you'd want to deliberately switch to two from one coil on a BB kit. The BB kit doesn't know whether it's driving 1, 2 or 100 coils. But getting it wrong electrically isn't a great idea. The transistors switching the coils aren't going to like being abused too far. Logically, a too low resistance in the primary windings is very important to avoid since the amps drawn will increase as resistance falls. But it's more complex than that and I'm not competent to think any deeper about it than that really.
 
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The Boyer red box switches voltage on and off regardless of the amperage that flows. Like a set of points. I'm do not know what Boyer recommends for coil primary resistance to use with it. My guess is any coil you can use with a set of points would work. Again I'm just guessing.
I've installed Boyers with the blue box on 5 650s. The blue box is much different than a red box. It regulates and switches amperage on and off regardless of the voltage. It uses a very low resistance coil .6 Ohms. As far as I know Boyer is the only set up that uses such a low resistance coil.
If you would use a blue box coil on a red box you would toast the red box and possible the coil. My guess is a red box coil on a blue box would not hurt anything but the spark if any would be very weak.
Like I said I've installed 5 blue box Boyers and have had 0 problems with any of them. I've used just what comes in the box. No added relays, nothing changed for mounting the pick up plate. Oh wait I do use red Loctite and maybe a extra wire tie or 2.
 
The Boyer red box switches voltage on and off regardless of the amperage that flows. Like a set of points. I'm do not know what Boyer recommends for coil primary resistance to use with it. My guess is any coil you can use with a set of points would work. Again I'm just guessing.
I've installed Boyers with the blue box on 5 650s. The blue box is much different than a red box. It regulates and switches amperage on and off regardless of the voltage. It uses a very low resistance coil .6 Ohms. As far as I know Boyer is the only set up that uses such a low resistance coil.
If you would use a blue box coil on a red box you would toast the red box and possible the coil. My guess is a red box coil on a blue box would not hurt anything but the spark if any would be very weak.
Like I said I've installed 5 blue box Boyers and have had 0 problems with any of them. I've used just what comes in the box. No added relays, nothing changed for mounting the pick up plate. Oh wait I do use red Loctite and maybe a extra wire tie or 2.
The engine I bought came with a blue box Boyer plus a twin pole coil (I assume this is how the kit comes?)
All looked brand new,I ran it a few times then stored it away for a few years
The next time I went to start it the blue box had died
So I put one of my spare black boxes on and a pair of 6v Lucas coils and the bike starts immediately on the button
 
The engine I bought came with a blue box Boyer plus a twin pole coil (I assume this is how the kit comes?)
All looked brand new,I ran it a few times then stored it away for a few years
The next time I went to start it the blue box had died
So I put one of my spare black boxes on and a pair of 6v Lucas coils and the bike starts immediately on the button

Good fix since you had the stuff. 2 6 volt coils in series is fine with a red box.
 
I just changed fork oil in XS650SH forks. 7K miles on the oil. It was black as coal. It needs to be changed more often, but I admit it’s a PITA. Wheel and fender off. I had to remove the handlebar to get the caps back on the fork tubes. It had 15W in it and it was awful. 10W should improve my ride.

Anyway, it’s ready for the Dick Russell Rally.
I've never done this but can the oil be drained out the bottom screws
Then use the bike lift to get the front tire off the ground
Then take just caps off and refill oil to specs ?
73/75/77
 
I've never done this but can the oil be drained out the bottom screws
Then use the bike lift to get the front tire off the ground
Then take just caps off and refill oil to specs ?
73/75/77
The hole is very small, manual sez wheel on floor drain, then pump handlebars a few times, caution, there is a risk of squirting out a stream of oil. Mebby hang a rag. then get wheel off floor before removing fork caps.
 
, there is a risk of squirting out a stream of oil.
No risk. It’s going to shoot across the garage, or the living room if you do the job there.

For me the issue is that I can’t get the fork caps on without removing the handlebar. I did not remove the fork tubes from the clamps. I removed the fender, the wheel, and the fork caps. I removed the drain screws and slowly pumped each leg until empty. I rinsed it out with isopropyl alcohol.

I don’t remember what the book says about how often to do it. I do believe 7K miles was too long.
 
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No risk. It’s going to shoot across the garage, or the living room if you do the job there.
Cut a piece off a jug of milk, oil bottle or somesuch plastic container. Tape that to the fork leg and let the oil spray onto that, then deflect/drip down into the drain pan.
 
The Boyer red box switches voltage on and off regardless of the amperage that flows. Like a set of points. I'm do not know what Boyer recommends for coil primary resistance to use with it. My guess is any coil you can use with a set of points would work. Again I'm just guessing.
I've installed Boyers with the blue box on 5 650s. The blue box is much different than a red box. It regulates and switches amperage on and off regardless of the voltage. It uses a very low resistance coil .6 Ohms. As far as I know Boyer is the only set up that uses such a low resistance coil.
If you would use a blue box coil on a red box you would toast the red box and possible the coil. My guess is a red box coil on a blue box would not hurt anything but the spark if any would be very weak.
Like I said I've installed 5 blue box Boyers and have had 0 problems with any of them. I've used just what comes in the box. No added relays, nothing changed for mounting the pick up plate. Oh wait I do use red Loctite and maybe a extra wire tie or 2.
Thanks for explaining the difference with the BB igniter boxes. Interesting. Very low resistance coil with the blue boxes. Box is switching a fair current. Explains neatly the big fat sparks it generates and perhaps why the BB kit anecdotally needs a good solid 12v to work at it's best.
 
Went to a blacksmith shop for cutting a mounting plate for the PMA Banshee mounting bracket
He said he would do it next time the cutting machine would be used .
A piece of aluminum, scrap rather thick .I hope it wont be to thick 6 - 8 mm ish
I found out that the stator I have is for a Kawasaki 800 Vulcan
Dont know why I have it but must have done some thinking back in time. But can still be wrong .
Looking at a regulator from France ca 60 euro
The rotor have strong magnets so testing the stator -- Plonk it was drawn in and it was difficult getting it out again
Not much to grab on
 
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