What have you done to your XS today?

[Adamc]

Taffy had a bit of a work over.
1. Checked timing.
2. Adjusted valves.
3. Checked timing chain adjustment.
4. Balanced carbs with manometer.
5. Cleaned & re-gapped spark plugs.
Bike fired up instantly and ran better than ever.
Next job, adjust clutch.
Then a shakedown ride.......

 

[Its been a long time]

Taffy had a bit of a work over.
1. Checked timing.
2. Adjusted valves.
3. Checked timing chain adjustment.
4. Balanced carbs with manometer.
5. Cleaned & re-gapped spark plugs.
Bike fired up instantly and ran better than ever.
Next job, adjust clutch.
Then a shakedown ride.......

Sounds promising. Fingers crossed for a good ride very shortly.

 

[Its been a long time]

 

[Its been a long time]

Battery on charge, ready to give the bike a run in the morning. This week, brass head nut washers fitted, new clutch cable, clutch push rod and seal changed. See how it goes in the morning.

 

[Adamc]

Battery on charge, ready to give the bike a run in the morning. This week, brass head nut washers fitted, new clutch cable, clutch push rod and seal changed. See how it goes in the morning.

View attachment 351374

Hey IBALT how did you remove the clutch push-rod?
Was the old one a two piece or a one piece?

 

[Its been a long time]

Hey IBALT how did you remove the clutch push-rod?
Was the old one a two piece or a one piece?

Just pulled out. The part of the pushrod there is pretty short and it only pulls out a short distance and it's out of the guide bush. It's easy to see how replacing the 8mm long standard guide bush with a 10mm long one is a good idea. It's the two piece pushrod with a ball bearing in the middle.

Whole job is very simple. It would be better to remove the front sprocket though and if I ever do it again, I will. It's difficult to push the right side 1/3rd of the seal in properly with the sprocket fitted. Can be done, but a better way is to remove the sprocket for better access on fitting the new seal.

With the new guide bush fitted the sideways movement on the pushrod is greatly reduced but still there. The pushrod isn't worn at all but it's not a close fit in the guide bush.

 

[Its been a long time]

Oil free zone. At last.

 

[Jan_P]

PMA one step forward and one back

The seller of the Regulator kindly answered Normal 13.3 to 13.5 Lights On Should Work

BUT a set back the .Rotor and Stator needs to be concentric the rotor sits on the Crank axle and Stator on the cases
And not much play When I installed i used shims of cardboard But not good enough so had to redo it
It rubbed somewhere causing noise
Full circle of thick paper material and with that there tightening the rotor and then the stater getting the play hopefully.
Not much radial play room

Oupp.. h ..hhh that was difficult to get the Key way in

After tightening I could not get the paper shims out but it will wear off I believe. No Worries
Then I damaged one of the threaded holes I Made .Need to see if I need to make it take a larger Screw

Perhaps ending with going back to stock after Evaluation period or doing better fastening plates .Better machined
Puuhh ..hh as they say in the Movie --- " I m to old for this S*it "

 

[Mikey]

Just pulled out. The part of the pushrod there is pretty short and it only pulls out a short distance and it's out of the guide bush. It's easy to see how replacing the 8mm long standard guide bush with a 10mm long one is a good idea. It's the two piece pushrod with a ball bearing in the middle.

Whole job is very simple. It would be better to remove the front sprocket though and if I ever do it again, I will. It's difficult to push the right side 1/3rd of the seal in properly with the sprocket fitted. Can be done, but a better way is to remove the sprocket for better access on fitting the new seal.

With the new guide bush fitted the sideways movement on the pushrod is greatly reduced but still there. The pushrod isn't worn at all but it's not a close fit in the guide bush.

I've alway wondered with a 2 piece push rod how do you get out the ball bearing and the second half of the pushrod ?

 

[Its been a long time]

I've alway wondered with a 2 piece push rod how do you get out the ball bearing and the second half of the pushrod ?

With a magnet.

 

[Adamc]

I've alway wondered with a 2 piece push rod how do you get out the ball bearing and the second half of the pushrod ?

Yes @Mikey I'm still no wiser regarding the two piece rod and the ball bearings. MAybe you have to use a magnet to extract the whole assembly?

 

[Its been a long time]

Yes @Mikey I'm still no wiser regarding the two piece rod and the ball bearings. MAybe you have to use a magnet to extract the whole assembly?

But, for a seal and bush change you only remove the first part of the pushrod.

 

[Adamc]

Taffy had the M-Unit Iggy Bypass properly integrated into the loom today.
Went for a slightly longer ride, only about 5 miles; carburetion is not perfect but getting better the more I fiddle with the screws etc.
I have a bit of clutch slip, and neutral is impossible to get. More adjustments needed, was OK before the service I did recently.
Maybe I will do the one piece push rod and gggGary plates which I already have.

 

[bazz]

I fitted a new starter gear today
Is this amount of wear pretty normal on these engines?

 

[Resto_Paul]

Dumped my break in oil today after probably 125-150 miles. Pulled both strainers out and also pulled my clutch cover to hopefully fix the leak I have there. Bottom strainer was pretty clean however the side one has me a bit concerned. I knew I'd have a little bit of material from breaking in the rings but does this look excessive? No big chunks but lots of small silver and almost brass colored bits. I don't recall anything inside the engine even being this color. Only thing I can think of is maybe remnants stuck in the covers from chrome somehow. Tomorrow I'll reinstall the side strainer after installing the clutch cover. Probably going to use a little hylomar or three bond on the clutch cover gasket to ensure no more leaks.
What do you guys think of all this debris on a fresh rebuild?

 

[Jan_P]

It can be difficult to get everything clean inside when assembling
Worked with Hydraulic cylinders .. everything was shiny and oily inside .so it was virtually impossible get clean
And sometimes getting problems with seals and pistons.

One can check with a magnet here .. And if it is metal
I would guess a bit much particles ..but maybe remnants from work done but first guess OK
Warm up and listening for sounds .. now in the start and inspect filter again after the same distance or sooner

 

[Resto_Paul]

Yeah I had the engine completely apart, blasted and cerakoted cases, rephased crank and cam, 2nd overbore on the cylinders with new pistons, and covers were chromed so could be some of that was stuck in the passages. Engine fires right up and seems to run well with the only notable noise being a slight one from the oil pump/tach drive area.
Plan i guess is to run it a few hundred more miles and dump the oil again and at least check the side strainer. Like I said the lower one was extremely clean.

 

[zrx1100]

Yeah I had the engine completely apart, blasted and cerakoted cases, rephased crank and cam, 2nd overbore on the cylinders with new pistons, and covers were chromed so could be some of that was stuck in the passages. Engine fires right up and seems to run well with the only notable noise being a slight one from the oil pump/tach drive area.
Plan i guess is to run it a few hundred more miles and dump the oil again and at least check the side strainer. Like I said the lower one was extremely clean.

dont worry about it. these motors can generate metal.

 

[Resto_Paul]

dont worry about it. these motors can generate metal.

Yeah I'm aware and on a fresh rebuild I definitely expected some but that's only a few hours of run time. Like I said the yellowish material is what's throwing me off....no idea what that's from. Even looked at all my teardown and assembly pics.

 

[Jim]

Like @zrx1100 said, these motors will make some metal.

While not ideal, metal in the screens isn't uncommon after a rebuild. My advice has always been to put another 2-300 miles on it and change the oil again. What you want to see is less and less metal at each change. By the 3rd change at about 1k miles, they should come out about clean.


If it keeps making metal, then you have a problem.