I have one of those rectifiers. They take 8mm female terminals. A bit bigger than I was used to, usually 6mm.
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What have you done to your XS today?
- Thread starter I am Carbon
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Nice work on that reg/rec, very tidy! I purchased that same Volf Meter lol, and I didn’t like how slow it was to refresh the readings, and how it said volf… I bought this analog gauge that looks pretty similar to the stock gauges, only thing about it is the needle is very jumpy, but has been holding up for a cheap gauge. Made this bracket for it, I’d like to try and relocate it where the center “console” indicator box is and fabricate a new little cluster there with that gauge and indicators together.
Are you still running the original alternator or a PMA type?
I use a meter very similar to this on my commando
It's from a BMW boxer twin
Nice neat install
I too use a similar voltmeter. I used a white digit gauge which is easier to see in daylight. Works well. A friend made me the mount that fits nicely on the bars with 3M tape. Working well although it hasn’t seen a lot of riding hours this year (yet).
Clean! I like that ignition switch mount, what’s going on there? Is all that mounted to the stock gauge cluster bracket?
I'm still using the original alternator so I used a type B reg.
After replacing fork seals and oil this winter I’ve never been real happy with the front suspension performance, which to modern day standards, would be poor at best. The oil I removed from the forks was an unknown weight. I searched on line and decided to try 15W oil. The forks were quite stiff on compression and I thought the ride was a bit harsh. I had some time today so I did a quick oil swap to 10W. Well that made quite the difference and I’m almost tempted to try 5W oil. The suspension is stock 34mm with progressive springs.
Nothing stock there. All custom made bits by the po.
My forks are the later variant. I put 15W Belray fork oil in the XS650SH because it’s all I could get. No good. It’s much better back to 10W. I believe 5W will offer piss poor dampening on the rebound. Speaking for myself, I wouldn’t try it as I feel I already know what the result will be. The only modification I’m running with is increased oil level in the fork. This decreases fork dive in hard braking.
Me and Dad putting that car together in 1983- we found the continental kit in an Idaho junkyard, and pulled it off with hand tools on a hundred degree day, praying for the bolts to just snap. She's logged some miles, MD to CA and back, as well as all over the midwest and New England. Good eye!
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OHV or L head?
On my present 650D I am running 5w fork oil. But I do have a history of preferring lighter rather than heavier oil in the forks. It's easy enough to give it a try. You can even blend equal amounts of 5 and 10w if you want to try 7.5w oil.
Today I got my X's on the road "legally" I'm very very pleased with it
It certainly runs better than I ever expected and the handling is superb for a rigid frame
It revs out with no flat spots and brakes well too
There's no smoke from it all and the motor just feels "strong" if you know what I mean
It certainly runs better than I ever expected and the handling is superb for a rigid frame
It revs out with no flat spots and brakes well too
There's no smoke from it all and the motor just feels "strong" if you know what I mean
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Sky King
XS650 Addict
I am not always a fan of customs but that one I like! Sprung solo saddle and tool box are nice touches. Really good looking Bobber you have there.
But how are the brakes?
Brilliant fanx
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Also really like that toolbox, overall nice aesthetics 
You keeping the raw finish or painting?
You keeping the raw finish or painting?
After swapping out the fork oil from 15W to 10W, I noticed a bit of wetness on the bottom of the left fork tube. I thought it might be the drain screw but it was snugged up and leak free. I believe the oil was coming from the damper retaining bolt at the bottom of the tube. I removed the axle and tried to tighten the bolt and it was already tight. I saw a trick on the web tor stopping leaks on hydraulic connections (banjo bolts and crush washers). I stuck a long hex key into the bolt and gave the key a couple of sharp hits with a hammer. I put the ratchet on the key and got a bit of movement and hopefully that will be enough to stop the seepage.
