What have you done to your XS today?

I have a truing stand too. Maybe I should give it a go.. any tips? I guess I should take lots of pictures so I’ll know which way the spokes go..
Yes, lots of pics. All spoked wheels have a pattern to 'em. Study it, figure out the pattern for that wheel and you'll do jus' fine. It ain't rocket science, it just takes patience.
 
Today I worked on fixing my center stand using the foot-lever off of a parts bike XJ 550.

My center stand had been mutilated by the PO making it a super pain in the ass to get the bike up onto it.

A little cutting, grinding, tacking, checking clearance, welding, brushing, cleaning, and painting.
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This will be one of the few modernisation projects (maybe the only one?) and completely reversible - found just enough space up where the stock beep-beep horn mounts to fit a pair of Stebel Magnum 80s, with relay. A couple of hardware brackets and some rattlecan black...

The challenge is that drivers on our motorways either drift across lanes without looking, or look and don't see - a good hefty horn blast makes them reconsider their actions.

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Good idea using a relay, the stock button push burns up at the contacts. But you can buy new ones. It's the same as the starter push button as well which gets burnt. On my 650D the contacts were burnt and the spring had lost it's effectiveness. New ones fixed it no problem.

Should be effective waking up sleepy drivers.
 
Good idea using a relay, the stock button push burns up at the contacts. But you can buy new ones. It's the same as the starter push button as well which gets burnt. On my 650D the contacts were burnt and the spring had lost it's effectiveness. New ones fixed it no problem.

Should be effective waking up sleepy drivers.
I hope so!
 
Big thanks to everybody who helped my understanding of the significance of the "clocking" of the actuator arm. Clutch back together with "artisanal" paper gasket, test ride shows huge improvement in clutch action, acceptable load at the lever, plus control over the take-up point. 👍👍

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I need to do this. My clutch is awful and makes riding a fun bike not fun.
 
Changed out my front sprocket to 18-tooth, installed an x-ring chain and a new 34 tooth rear.

A few observations. My chain guard was removed at some point and the old standard chain with the stock 17-tooth sprocket was dragging a bit on the shifter rod. The new x-ring chain with the 18-tooth sprocket barely drags, if at all, and less than the old chain. The chain/sprocket combo is from MMM. The chain is EK 530SRX2-104.SLJ. A “QX-Ring”. Drivability wise, the first gear is definitely taller, which is good. The punch in the higher gears is less in lower rpm. Will need to test on longer rides to see how I like it. I have a 17/33 combo to try as a compromise.

Also fitted Ferodo shoes on the rear and will be getting the shifter rod protector from GLJ.
 
I need to do this. My clutch is awful and makes riding a fun bike not fun.
Yep, a bad clutch ruins everything - just pull it down and fix it. You'll appreciate it every time you ride it afterwards.

I didn't get mine right in one go bc I didn't understand enough about the actuator arm "clocking", but it's right now.
 
Changed out my front sprocket to 18-tooth, installed an x-ring chain and a new 34 tooth rear.

A few observations. My chain guard was removed at some point and the old standard chain with the stock 17-tooth sprocket was dragging a bit on the shifter rod. The new x-ring chain with the 18-tooth sprocket barely drags, if at all, and less than the old chain. The chain/sprocket combo is from MMM. The chain is EK 530SRX2-104.SLJ. A “QX-Ring”. Drivability wise, the first gear is definitely taller, which is good. The punch in the higher gears is less in lower rpm. Will need to test on longer rides to see how I like it. I have a 17/33 combo to try as a compromise.

Also fitted Ferodo shoes on the rear and will be getting the shifter rod protector from GLJ.
what ever you do: never go with a 16 sprocket combine with a 530chain! that will mill the chaindriveshafthousing and that made the sealing could pop out... oil get to the rear wheel a.s.o.... you dont will like that.
 

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Yes, lots of pics. All spoked wheels have a pattern to 'em. Study it, figure out the pattern for that wheel and you'll do jus' fine. It ain't rocket science, it just takes patience.
Just received the new spokes. There were two bundles in the package. Are all the spokes the same or are there differences? A quick visual inspection didn’t detect any differences. Seems bend angles may differ?
 
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Anyone ever seen something like this? Looks like it's been welded and then cracked open again. Hole is about 10mm deep.
Thinking to do a quick fix with Belzona and weld it properly next time top end is disassembled.
Doesn't leak compression as I measured 190psi on both cylinders.
 

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Anyone ever seen something like this? Looks like it's been welded and then cracked open again. Hole is about 10mm deep.
Thinking to do a quick fix with Belzona and weld it properly next time top end is disassembled.
Doesn't leak compression as I measured 190psi on both cylinders.
Not need too weld ! Remove the wireshit and replace it with a Bushing(!)- M16x1,25 OD. I know some stupids do such "drills" to hook the wire in.

You need just somthing like this:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/13722808856...c_physical_ms=9044592&adtype=pla&gad_source=1

I recomend a short tap M16x,1.25 cause that made that you not remove the Head. Just crank to the "OPEN EXHAUST" point and hold a vacuumcleaner at the Muffler ,while Tapping ... even as it is just "aftertapping" that tiny chips gets out by the vacuumcleaner. get that Bushing in and lock it with Loctite Headproof 4xx . Make shure tha the Bushing hat electrical contact to the metal. Dont drown it too the Glue!
 
I have a truing stand too. Maybe I should give it a go.. any tips? I guess I should take lots of pictures so I’ll know which way the spokes go..
You got this! First is a pain but it gets easier. Yeah videos. The hub has marks from the old spokes that act as guides.
PS those marks are completely normal.
 
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Just received the new spokes. There were two bundles in the package. Are all the spokes the same or are there differences? A quick visual inspection didn’t detect any differences. Seems bend angles may differ?
One packet is the inner and the other is the outer. Look closely at the bends at the end of the spoke and make note when you remove the old ones as to which goes where. The heads of the spokes may sit a little different in the hub than the factory spokes, but that's ok. Below is a quick link to when I rebuilt my 75 wheels if it helps. Take your time, when you get frustrated just walk away for a bit and come back fresh. You got this.

https://www.xs650.com/threads/spoke-wheel-rebuild.57489/

Here is another thread I found helpful.
https://xs650chopper.com/how-to-lace-a-wheel-from-scratch/
 
One packet is the inner and the other is the outer. Look closely at the bends at the end of the spoke and make note when you remove the old ones as to which goes where. The heads of the spokes may sit a little different in the hub than the factory spokes, but that's ok. Below is a quick link to when I rebuilt my 75 wheels if it helps. Take your time, when you get frustrated just walk away for a bit and come back fresh. You got this.

https://www.xs650.com/threads/spoke-wheel-rebuild.57489/

Here is another thread I found helpful.
https://xs650chopper.com/how-to-lace-a-wheel-from-scratch/
Thanks @willis this will be helpful. I’ll plan to get the wheel off today and tackle the spokes soon. Upon closer inspection I noticed the different bend angles.`I’ll post pics and an update later. I appreciate your help!
 
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