What have you done to your XS today?

Went for a second start up today. Fired up on second press, lovely.
Then I noticed the Moto Gadget speedo didn’t light up. So switched on / off a few times, no joy. Check the install destructions and they say follow trouble shooting. Disconnect the multi pin blocks (1 nine pin / 1 six pin) make up some test leads and follow test steps. Thankfully the unit worked fine after a reset. Reconnect factory multi-pin blocks, switch on and.......
Nothing. All lights and indicators working, but speedo was dead. I moved the connector blocks again with power on and the speedo lit up. More jiggling and it was off and on like a newlyweds knickers.

So the supplied connectors have poor connection. I soldered and crimped the user ‘spades’. But it’s the factory crimps that are bad. I will de-pin the factory receivers and solder them. Hopefully that will sort things.
 
Finished my wiring today. Complete scratch built harness. The only original wires are the two from the rear brake switch. Everything is accessible from the right side cover.

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Now all that is left is to sort out the front brake and this bike is ready to hit the road.
 
Next project is a quick-and-dirty build-up of a 1983 Special that is barely a roller at the moment. Just needs to be running and operational for a roadworthiness inspection. Once declared roadworthy, it'll get a proper build.
- have a running engine that leaked oil badly from the sump plate despite a new gasket. Discovered it had a low spot on the sump plate mounting surface (> .025" low). Filled with JBW and filed flat. Its sump plate had been previously removed and used on another engine
- prepped a sump plate from another engine that needs a top-end rebuild and found that the repaired sump filter had come apart. Became determined to come up with a better sump filter arrangement! Has anyone done the KTM 620 paper filter mod?
- started the cleaning process on a set of BS34's, bodies currently soaking in carb cleaner
 
Gary, before I even attempt to remove the butterfly plate screws, I grind the peened ends off with a ball cutter in a Dremel .....

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I think this really helps and I've had a 100% success rate removing the screws since I started doing this. But lately, I've switched to using the diamond grit coated ball cutter and like it even better. Seems to make a finer cut and is easier to control.
 
THE LAST FURLONG.....

Today I fitted the new Venhill Throttle Cable. Which went relatively easily; most difficult bit was splaying the wires into the brass end piece and dip soldering it into a Heath-Robinson Solder Pot, made from a brass pipe end stop, filled with solder and heated by a blow torch. Did the job tho'
I really like the clean front end now all the cables and switch gear has been minimized.

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I also cured the sporadic functioning of the M-GADGET Speedo. De-pinned all the factory connector blocks soldered the crimps. On close inspection however the supplied 'user' spades are too loose on the pins when pushed together. A bit of delicate 'bendery' (Oh Matron!) and lift of the brass tabs sorted that out. Result is a solid and secure connection.

The M-Gadget Speedo doesn't like the original (with bike) VAPOR rear wheel speed sensor, and does not register any signal. I will have to make a bracket and install the M-Gadget reed sensor / magnet that came with the unit. Shame as I have to break into the wiring again.

I did set up all the parameters on the Speedo for the other items; wheel circumference / MPH register / Digital Rev Counter etc.... Looks daunting when you read the M-G destruction's but was actually fairly easy with a bit of practice using the momentary switch. The switch can now be used 'on the fly' to check system voltage / max speed achieved / set rev limits etc... And the neutral switch also works now.

I have also ordered some red UNI pod filters (from USA with free shipping) couldn't find a pair of them in Blighty.

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Now shes all dressed up again and looking great. I absolutely love this bike like no other I've owned.
Next is a good clean and polish, followed by a test run over the weekend.

Thanks again to all who contributed to my re-build over these past months; you are all stars!

Ads. :bike::devil:
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THE LAST FURLONG.....

Today I fitted the new Venhill Throttle Cable. Which went relatively easily; most difficult bit was splaying the wires into the brass end piece and dip soldering it into a Heath-Robinson Solder Pot, made from a brass pipe end stop, filled with solder and heated by a blow torch. Did the job tho'
I really like the clean front end now all the cables and switch gear has been minimized.

View attachment 225202 View attachment 225203

I also cured the sporadic functioning of the M-GADGET Speedo. De-pinned all the factory connector blocks soldered the crimps. On close inspection however the supplied 'user' spades are too loose on the pins when pushed together. A bit of delicate 'bendery' (Oh Matron!) and lift of the brass tabs sorted that out. Result is a solid and secure connection.

The M-Gadget Speedo doesn't like the original (with bike) VAPOR rear wheel speed sensor, and does not register any signal. I will have to make a bracket and install the M-Gadget reed sensor / magnet that came with the unit. Shame as I have to break into the wiring again.

I did set up all the parameters on the Speedo for the other items; wheel circumference / MPH register / Digital Rev Counter etc.... Looks daunting when you read the M-G destruction's but was actually fairly easy with a bit of practice using the momentary switch. The switch can now be used 'on the fly' to check system voltage / max speed achieved / set rev limits etc... And the neutral switch also works now.

I have also ordered some red UNI pod filters (from USA with free shipping) couldn't find a pair of them in Blighty.

View attachment 225204 View attachment 225205

Now shes all dressed up again and looking great. I absolutely love this bike like no other I've owned.
Next is a good clean and polish, followed by a test run over the weekend.

Thanks again to all who contributed to my re-build over these past months; you are all stars!

Ads. :bike::devil:
View attachment 225206
Well if it performs half as good as it looks you'll have a winner on your hands. Well done Adam!!
 
Gary, before I even attempt to remove the butterfly plate screws, I grind the peened ends off with a ball cutter in a Dremel .....

View attachment 225148

I think this really helps and I've had a 100% success rate removing the screws since I started doing this. But lately, I've switched to using the diamond grit coated ball cutter and like it even better. Seems to make a finer cut and is easier to control.
diamond ball and egg shape grinder bits on order.
 
Finished my wiring today. Complete scratch built harness. The only original wires are the two from the rear brake switch. Everything is accessible from the right side cover.

View attachment 224874

Now all that is left is to sort out the front brake and this bike is ready to hit the road.

That looks very neat and tidy, well done!
 
Echoing what all the others have said and then some. A very beautiful machine! Love the paint, cockpit and rolling stock. Could you fill us in on the wheel and tire combination? Hub/wheel diameter and width, tire brand and size. Looking to do something similar on my next build.
 
Echoing what all the others have said and then some. A very beautiful machine! Love the paint, cockpit and rolling stock. Could you fill us in on the wheel and tire combination? Hub/wheel diameter and width, tire brand and size. Looking to do something similar on my next build.
Hi Atom, not sure who’s bike you are referencing.
If it is my Welsh Flat Tracker, I’d be happy to give you info.
 
Trying to save a set of BS34's...they've been soaking in carb cleaner for 24 hrs+. The needle jets are stuck in place. Turned up an aluminum drift, thinking that would be sufficient to knock them out. No dice, zero movement, bent the drift! Any words of wisdom from the community on how this is best done? A little heat, maybe, from an electric heat gun or a propane torch?
 
Trying to save a set of BS34's...they've been soaking in carb cleaner for 24 hrs+. The needle jets are stuck in place. Turned up an aluminum drift, thinking that would be sufficient to knock them out. No dice, zero movement, bent the drift! Any words of wisdom from the community on how this is best done? A little heat, maybe, from an electric heat gun or a propane torch?
You're tapping from the bottom... the bowl side, correct?
 
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