I'm sure you will. Good luck with it.
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What the fork is wrong with my seals?
- Thread starter bosco659
- Start date
I’ve tried a number of sources to get NOK or SKF seals and have given up. Non responsive suppliers have me 
. For interests sake I contacted Racetech to see if they had seals available. They told me to use OEM Yamaha seals and steer clear of aftermarket stuff because of inconsistent quality. So I reluctantly ordered a pair of seals from Yamaha. Expensive as $hit for what they are but I figured Racetech knew what they were talking about. Seals will be here by the end of the week. Although I said I’ll re/re over the winter, the current seals are sticking do much that I’ll do the work now.
. For interests sake I contacted Racetech to see if they had seals available. They told me to use OEM Yamaha seals and steer clear of aftermarket stuff because of inconsistent quality. So I reluctantly ordered a pair of seals from Yamaha. Expensive as $hit for what they are but I figured Racetech knew what they were talking about. Seals will be here by the end of the week. Although I said I’ll re/re over the winter, the current seals are sticking do much that I’ll do the work now.
Btw - 2 Yamaha seals- $90 cdn
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DS2 on those expensive Yammy seals?
Inquiring minds.
PS DS2 on the dust boot wiping area..........
Inquiring minds.
PS DS2 on the dust boot wiping area..........
I got roped in to buying some Gucci fork seal grease and wonder if I should use that again.
I do have a good supply of DS2 and can use that too. Do you wipe that on the seals then apply grease on top? For the dust covers, I do have the old ones that are still in usable condition. I think those ones will go back on because I don’t trust the others now.
Yes DS2 on dry rubber then grease in the gap between the wipers.
Interesting comment from Race Tech:
“Make sure to prep the stanchion tube surface with green or brown Scotch Brite type scuffing pads.”
Does everyone do this? Intel from Race Tech - preparation of the tubes is to remove contaminants; give the tubes the ability to carry some oil into the seals and also to help seat the seals. They said drill press, lathe or elbow grease to do this.
@arcticXS suggested this back in post #64 of this thread.
found this on line…. But the more you search, the more inconsistencies you’ll find.
“Make sure to prep the stanchion tube surface with green or brown Scotch Brite type scuffing pads.”
Does everyone do this? Intel from Race Tech - preparation of the tubes is to remove contaminants; give the tubes the ability to carry some oil into the seals and also to help seat the seals. They said drill press, lathe or elbow grease to do this.
@arcticXS suggested this back in post #64 of this thread.
found this on line…. But the more you search, the more inconsistencies you’ll find.
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For any (used) chrome I use a Brillo or SOS pad. They do much better than scotchbrites
Just water, Vic. The pads come saturated with soap.
Makes an excellent lubricant as you scrub.
Best used with running water... rinse frequently.
I know certain members here (cough cough...
) scoff at the idea, but it's the best chrome cleaner I've ever found.
Makes an excellent lubricant as you scrub.
Best used with running water... rinse frequently.
I know certain members here (cough cough...
If I think the tubes need "cleaning" I'm more of a black buff on a denim wheel kind O guy.
I have used fine like 1000 or 1500 wet n dry paper wet. Mainly concentrating on smoothing/rounding any rust pit edges.
Though you aren't likely to do much damage to hard chrome.
Hint I keep a spritz bottle of water with a bit of dish soap in it handy for the "wet".
But I'm jus' a wanker.
I have used fine like 1000 or 1500 wet n dry paper wet. Mainly concentrating on smoothing/rounding any rust pit edges.
Though you aren't likely to do much damage to hard chrome.
Hint I keep a spritz bottle of water with a bit of dish soap in it handy for the "wet".
But I'm jus' a wanker.
Before going for a ride tonight, I tried cleaning the tubes quickly with some green scotch brite material. I went for a 50km spin and when I got back the forks were sticking again and there was a black gooey, sticky mess on the tubes again. I moved the dust caps up on the tubes and wiped the tubes clean with solvent. I bounced the forks a dozen times and sure enough they started sticking again. I hope to get the new seals today. I’m not 100% sure what to do about the dust boots. I definitely won’t put the ones back on that are currently on the bike. When I pick up the seals I’ll price out the Yamaha boots. Pretty sure they’ll be another $100
I asked the dealer to look into warranty for me on the currently installed seals. He didn’t seem hopeful that Alls Balls would cover them.
I asked the dealer to look into warranty for me on the currently installed seals. He didn’t seem hopeful that Alls Balls would cover them.
You made me go look:
I second the finish can be too fine, if you look at std hydraulic piston rod the surface visual looks typical of a fine ground finish, its smooth to the touch, but still has visible striations. The seals need the oil the striations in the grind drags under them to keep them lubricated. A perfect mirror polish, the seal wipes off all the oil and wears in no time. Not a issue on a outboard motor lift, but something that sees frequent cycles and its really noticeable. It's more of a real issue on rotary sealing surfaces than it is cylinder - linear travel sealing. Rotory the surface never gets rewetted and wears fast!
The age old 2 hone approach is one way of getting there, hone to size with something akin to 160 grit, Then hone it smooth with a 400-600 hone but leaving the scratches in from the coarse hone, but making it smooth only on the surface with the finer one.
I second the finish can be too fine, if you look at std hydraulic piston rod the surface visual looks typical of a fine ground finish, its smooth to the touch, but still has visible striations. The seals need the oil the striations in the grind drags under them to keep them lubricated. A perfect mirror polish, the seal wipes off all the oil and wears in no time. Not a issue on a outboard motor lift, but something that sees frequent cycles and its really noticeable. It's more of a real issue on rotary sealing surfaces than it is cylinder - linear travel sealing. Rotory the surface never gets rewetted and wears fast!
The age old 2 hone approach is one way of getting there, hone to size with something akin to 160 grit, Then hone it smooth with a 400-600 hone but leaving the scratches in from the coarse hone, but making it smooth only on the surface with the finer one.
Well I picked up my seals today. The manufacturer is KYB (as RaceTech suggested). I enquired about the dust boots ant the dealer and looks like they’re almost the same price as the seals. I was going to order them but they need to come on a slow boat from Japan so it gave me an excuse to cheap out.
The dust boots or covers I have on have ribs on the flat sections. The on line pics I’ve seen for the XS650C show them with no ribs. When I was at the dealer he said for 34mm forks, there was a p/n for 650A&B and a different one for my C. The aftermarket covers I have (both newer and old, are of the ribbed design). I wonder if that’s why they are so tight to fit onto the forks? Perhaps the C cover has a slightly larger ID?
Good news from my parts supplier is that Alls Balls has given me a 100% refund.
I think my fork seals re/re will happen later in the month. Too much other stuff happening.
The dust boots or covers I have on have ribs on the flat sections. The on line pics I’ve seen for the XS650C show them with no ribs. When I was at the dealer he said for 34mm forks, there was a p/n for 650A&B and a different one for my C. The aftermarket covers I have (both newer and old, are of the ribbed design). I wonder if that’s why they are so tight to fit onto the forks? Perhaps the C cover has a slightly larger ID?
Good news from my parts supplier is that Alls Balls has given me a 100% refund.
I think my fork seals re/re will happen later in the month. Too much other stuff happening.
I have to say, that's pretty much a first in my experience where a 3rd party parts supplier does that. The customer usually get blamed for something you did, even when you didn't. I strongly suspect that you are not the only person who has reported recent issues with their seals.
Whatever, it's good news that you were refunded. Softens the blow a little.
Good luck with the rebuild.
I too was quite surprised they provided warranty and didn’t want the seals back. I agree there was probably some history of this happening before. It wasn’t a lot of money but paid for 3/4 of one of the new seals. lol.
Colour me puzzled.. I went for another ride tonight, about the same km as last night, looked at the forks when I got back and no black goo. But, I had the dust boots tucked up high under the lower triple clamp. I’m going to reinstall the boots to see if the black stuff comes back. Note I have ridden several times before, with the dust boots off and still had the black sticky mess. Perhaps the surface prep of the tubes with the Scotch Brite has helped?
. I went for another ride tonight, about the same km as last night, looked at the forks when I got back and no black goo. But, I had the dust boots tucked up high under the lower triple clamp. I’m going to reinstall the boots to see if the black stuff comes back. Note I have ridden several times before, with the dust boots off and still had the black sticky mess. Perhaps the surface prep of the tubes with the Scotch Brite has helped?
Slap some DS2 on those tubes!
PS I'm telling no balls you lied!
PS I'm telling no balls you lied!
Just slather it on dry?
Epic thread title! We should have an award for them
