Will a 83 motor work in my 72, and is this a good deal?

[CalsXS2]

So I have a chance to get this abandoned project for $600. The guys says it was a running bike with 12k on it when he tore into it 15 years ago to build a street tracker.

He says it ran good back then or he wouldn't be using the motor, or have painted it. He says there's 2 nos Sudco Mukini race carbs.

I would just be wanting it to drop the motor into my 72.

I don't know anything about electronic ignition. Is that a standard oem ignition set up, or is it a pamco or the like.

I figured hopefully I could sell the frame and other parts I didn't want to try and recoup some costs. Do you guys think I should get this for $600?

Seems like I would be money and time ahead instead of rebuilding my motor. A drop in would be nice right about now. I could maybe ride it this year,,,lol.

 

[Jim]

That's a Boyer Bransden ignition. It's written on the blue box.
'83 motor had oil sight glass on the right cover and a single outlet breather.... neither of which that motor has. Doesn't mean it's not an '83 motor but it does raise flags. Not sure why someone would replace the right cover and breather with (less desirable) earlier parts though.

 

[WideAWAKE]

Well if you can get some numbers off the block you could know for sure.

Granted the ignition is good, between that and the carbs your about 600 deep right there.

if it had a title the frame would be well worth $600 (at least where I’m located).

 

[CalsXS2]

Is the Boyer ignition desirable?

He said the motor is from a donor 78-79. Will send pic of vin. The chopped up frame that matches the title is a 83.

So I'm guessing the motor will work in my 72. Just do I want to risk it being any good,,,,lol.

 

[WideAWAKE]

Boyer makes a great ignition with a long track record.

you can get em new for about $230 so probably a quick sell at $175

 

[CalsXS2]

So I take it you guys are saying it's a good deal and I should get it, and hope the motor is good?

 

[WideAWAKE]

If my 72 looked as nice as yours I would want to keep the original motor in it.

take a week or 2 and rebuild your original motor.

you may be money ahead if the potential drop in motor runs but you would be way set back in terms of the bikes value goes...

but I would also buy that other bike if it was for sale locally by me, either build it or resell the parts.

 

[gggGary]

I'm with Jim you want to know what year the motor is, so get the number you can print off the chart in skulls ID thread to compare, and thinking like him it's older than 81,
metal oil cap is getting back there, mid seventies - guess.
title makes a big diff in price in many states.
Valve cover off in a dusty shop not encouraging.

 

[CalsXS2]

So here's the story on my bike.

It didn't look like that when I got it. It was kinda a junker. Didn't run, smashed up tank off something else and spray painted. No side covers. I had no idea it was a XS2 or what it was supposed to look like. I bought it for $500 to build a bobber.

Brought it home and cleaned the points and it ran. It was leaking oil all over. Turns out it was cracked almost all the way around the rear motor mount. I had someone try to weld it but it looked like crap. So I tore into it to see what it looked like. The rods are junk. Smokes, knocks. Needs a complete rebuild. That's what I was going to do until I found out how much it cost. Still not knowing what a xs2 looked like I proceeded to build me a bobber. Cut off the coil brackets and anything I didn't need for a bobber.

I did sandblast and paint the frame, nos rims and ss spokes, new tires.

Then went and bought a spare motor and left over parts from someones bobber build. Got the original tank, side covers, and headlight cover. I had no idea that's what it was supposed to look like. So I had my welder weld all the stuff back on. Good thing I made nice clean cuts with a sawzall,,,lol.

Put the new motor in and it smoked. Rode it for a couple of weeks and it wouldn't clear up. This all was 5 years ago.

Just a few days ago I decided to tear into this motor. Turns out the rods are very questionable. The little ends are worn. I was just about to say screw it and throw some rings on it and run it. I'd like to get this thing running and ride it before I die,,,lol.

Now this deal has come along.

So after all the cutting and welding that has been done I'd say any "Original" value is gone. Wouldn't you guys agree?

Serial number on the motor on the way.

Here's my original.

 

[CalsXS2]

The new motor is a 77. The vin on the bike matches the title.

 

[gggGary]

titled 77 is a good thing.
Hopefully it is just wood dust from the shop.
why not just build up the 77?

 

[Jan_P]

Short comments
That welded block I would avoid use .. I don't know about aluminum welding but for steel there is a big chance for cracking again.
The aeroplane boys can have better info.
The second engine has play in the small end conrods .Repair means crankshaft must be split
And then the parts only may cost close to $ 600 or thereabouts. + work and time
$ 600 dollars does not sound so bad if one can trust it to be a running engine without faults 12 k miles.
It would be quicker to throw it in. And perhaps run this summer. But there is always a risk with 40 + years Motorcycle engines
But that would most likely be the way I would try to do it.
My rebuild had also Questionable small ends .. With the crank out I took it to a more experienced shop.
And the mech gave it a go. saying it is not new but it is a pass
It could help to measure the piston pins They can also have a little wear so replacing then can get it better.
If so then a top end job. Can suffice Is simpler and since the engine is out. Quicker

 

[CalsXS2]

titled 77 is a good thing.
Hopefully it is just wood dust from the shop.
why not just build up the 77?

The title is for the 83 HACKED gframe. Did you see the frame Gary,,,,lol.

 

[nj1639]

Buy and build the tracker, keep an eye out for a replacement engine for the '72......something will come up.

 

[CalsXS2]

Short comments
That welded block I would avoid use .. I don't know about aluminum welding but for steel there is a big chance for cracking again.
The aeroplane boys can have better info.
The second engine has play in the small end conrods .Repair means crankshaft must be split
And then the parts only may cost close to $ 600 or thereabouts. + work and time
$ 600 dollars does not sound so bad if one can trust it to be a running engine without faults 12 k miles.
It would be quicker to throw it in. And perhaps run this summer. But there is always a risk with 40 + years Motorcycle engines
But that would most likely be the way I would try to do it.
My rebuild had also Questionable small ends .. With the crank out I took it to a more experienced shop.
And the mech gave it a go. saying it is not new but it is a pass
It could help to measure the piston pins They can also have a little wear so replacing then can get it better.
If so then a top end job. Can suffice Is simpler and since the engine is out. Quicker

Here's what my rods look like now. I guess my choices on this one are a full rebuild $$$$, or throw rings,wrist pins, and valve seals on it and go.

 

[Jan_P]

Yes that might be a bit to much ..I am no expert but the first impression is that it is time.
I don't think I would use that one either
Did it rattle when running and can one feel play with the pin inserted.?
Anything known of the mileage ?? 40 000 ?
Makes it more tempting to go for the replacement motor Perhaps

 

[CalsXS2]

Yes that might be a bit to much ..I am no expert but the first impression is that it is time.
I don't think I would use that one either
Did it rattle when running and can one feel play with the pin inserted.?
Anything known of the mileage ?? 40 000 ?
Makes it more tempting to go for the replacement motor Perhaps

It was well over 5 years ago when I rode it. I don't remember if it rattled or not. But it sure did smoke. Before I just tore it apart I was trying to kick it on the stand I have it on. I only got 60psi compression on each cylinder. But I was having a hard time holding it still and kicking at the same time. So I don't know if I got a good reading before my leg gave out.

If I put the end of the wrist pin in the rod there is less play. I can see and feel wear in the middle of the pin. I was just going to put in new pins and call it good. Let it rattle if it wants. Not going anywhere on it except around town. I have a Goldwing for the road trips.

Unknown milage.

I'm going to look at the tracker tomorrow. I'll try to get it for less.

Anybody want to buy a tracker frame,,,lol.

 

[CalsXS2]

Maybe it was hard to kick because I had it upside down,,,,lol. Just kidding.

 

[cra-z1]

Yes it looks like the rods are toast.

 

[GLJ]

So here's the story on my bike.

It didn't look like that when I got it. It was kinda a junker. Didn't run, smashed up tank off something else and spray painted. No side covers. I had no idea it was a XS2 or what it was supposed to look like. I bought it for $500 to build a bobber.

Brought it home and cleaned the points and it ran. It was leaking oil all over. Turns out it was cracked almost all the way around the rear motor mount. I had someone try to weld it but it looked like crap. So I tore into it to see what it looked like. The rods are junk. Smokes, knocks. Needs a complete rebuild. That's what I was going to do until I found out how much it cost. Still not knowing what a xs2 looked like I proceeded to build me a bobber. Cut off the coil brackets and anything I didn't need for a bobber.

I did sandblast and paint the frame, nos rims and ss spokes, new tires.

Then went and bought a spare motor and left over parts from someones bobber build. Got the original tank, side covers, and headlight cover. I had no idea that's what it was supposed to look like. So I had my welder weld all the stuff back on. Good thing I made nice clean cuts with a sawzall,,,lol.

Put the new motor in and it smoked. Rode it for a couple of weeks and it wouldn't clear up. This all was 5 years ago.

Just a few days ago I decided to tear into this motor. Turns out the rods are very questionable. The little ends are worn. I was just about to say screw it and throw some rings on it and run it. I'd like to get this thing running and ride it before I die,,,lol.

Now this deal has come along.

So after all the cutting and welding that has been done I'd say any "Original" value is gone. Wouldn't you guys agree?

Serial number on the motor on the way.

Here's my original.

View attachment 191829 View attachment 191830

Don't give up on your original cases. My 72 cases were cracked very similar to yours. A good welder can fix them and have them looking OK.
You should look your frame over for cracks and breaks. I found 2 breaks and several cracks in my frame.
My ongoing trials and tribulations with my 72.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/its-past-time-to-start-xs2-resurrection.53396/