win some, lose some -- 1971 XS1B

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Well as luck would have it, I read that article Bob references above (or one like it) years ago and gave it a shot.
Best I could come up with was a 28% solution from Ace hardware.
Didn't work. After about 8hrs it was definitely starting to eat the chrome, but I'd guess the timeline would be days or weeks. 30 to 40% might stand a better chance.
I've also put aluminum in it. Not good. It'll start to eat the aluminum within about 15-30 minutes.
You might have better luck than me, but I recommend extreme caution.
 
they reverse the electrolysis in the acid bath.
Usually dedicated tank just for the this process. dunno about what that does to aluminum.
Good point. The current literally pulls the chrome off. It's not entirely dependent on the acid.
Just recalled... @Kevin Werner sent me the fenders off his red bike for paint last year. He had sent 'em out to the chromers and had 'em de-chromed. The surface of the steel was rough... very rough. You could tell the acid they used ate away some of it. It took extra coats of epoxy filler to get a paintable finish. My thought is if it'll do that to steel, aluminum likely don't stand a chance.

Don't know if that's representative of all chrome shops, but they did it to those. :shrug:
 
I thought I remembered something about acid removing chrome. I do not advocate anything, merely passing along what I read. The article talks about various methods.
Taken from this article,

https://www.china-machining.com/blog/how-to-remove-chrome-plating/#:~:text=Also known as muriatic acid,be enough to remove chrome.

View attachment 333780
Thanks for that.
I looked into acid quite a bit. The problem is there are two steel posts on the back side of the brake plate, and the axle hole is steel lined. So you'd have acid eroding chrome, steel, and aluminum, all at different rates. Seems too chaotic and uncontrollable to me.

71nKkdoFzaL._AC_SL1500_.jpg81z9OTu400L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/Polly-Plasti...a778cb&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_ca_hp_atf_d
I'm leaning towards this. Mixed with grease, and used on a sisal wheel. Three grades of SiC, one pound each of coarse and medium, and 1/2 pound of fine. Would allow experimentation with the different grades to see what works. Either completely remove the chrome, or polish it.

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Take the left-over 1/2 pound of fine aluminum oxide powder, mix it with oil and/or wax, and make my own White Diamond aluminum polish.
 
they reverse the electrolysis in the acid bath.
Usually dedicated tank just for the this process. dunno about what that does to aluminum.
I've had some very nice aluminum parts that had been plated. :unsure::eek::sick:
Good point. The current literally pulls the chrome off. It's not entirely dependent on the acid.
Just recalled... @Kevin Werner sent me the fenders off his red bike for paint last year. He had sent 'em out to the chromers and had 'em de-chromed. The surface of the steel was rough... very rough. You could tell the acid they used ate away some of it. It took extra coats of epoxy filler to get a paintable finish. My thought is if it'll do that to steel, aluminum likely don't stand a chance.

Don't know if that's representative of all chrome shops, but they did it to those. :shrug:
It has to be something I can do myself. And not overly complicated/dangerous/poisonous. The plate does not have to be perfect, I just have to at least get rid of the rough, blasted-looking finish.
 
Years ago when my uncles business started removing rust from bathtubs they used muriatic acid and a HUGE problem was even the fumes would strip the chrome off the bathroom hardware (even stuff not in the tub). Now this wasn’t super nice triple plated car show chrome, but chrome nonetheless.

It may be worth a shot.
 
Years ago when my uncles business started removing rust from bathtubs they used muriatic acid and a HUGE problem was even the fumes would strip the chrome off the bathroom hardware (even stuff not in the tub). Now this wasn’t super nice triple plated car show chrome, but chrome nonetheless.

It may be worth a shot.
Muriatic acid and hydrochloric acid are one in the same for all practical purposes.
 
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