Winter project: upgrading time! (R6 forks and more...)

In the past I have seen the mention about some timing lights only working on one lead of a dual spark coil. It was not on this forum but in some online timing light manual. I think It was to do with whether or not the timing light electronics can handle +ve and -ve pulses.
 
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Somebody left a mark, I'm assuming this was rewound in 2015.

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Turned the world upside down
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64 grams is the max it could hold. Pretty cool to see that this is very similar to your findings Jim!
 
O one last thing, here are some close up shots of the stator. About 5 years ago my bike wouldn't charge either. Back then i traced it to a faulty stator. Went to heiden tuning and he said it's basically never fails. He sold me a second hand part. Looking at it, it's pretty nasty. I see some cracks in unknown material. Note how everything is epoxied in there. This is why I don't feel good taking those wires out... I would need to pull that fragile core in order to access the leads....

I wonder if this could be rewound or they only sell Chinese reproductions.
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In the past I have seen the mention about some timing lights only working on one lead of a dual spark coil. It was not on this forum but in some online timing light manual. I think It was to do with whether or not the timing light electronics can handle +ve and -ve pulses.
The inductive clamp normally has an Arrow pointing towards the plug. So maybe it works on the other side if the clamp is mounted in the opposite direction?
 
So now what? I'm out of options
Well, it seems that either the TCI sensor or your ignition controller (charmo?) is playing up when the alternator is charging.
What about powering the coils and ignition controller from an external battery? Then run without charging, then with charging. If the problem then appears when alternator is charging, it may indicate a TCI sensor issue, or alternator issue.
 
Well, it seems that either the TCI sensor or your ignition controller (charmo?) is playing up when the alternator is charging.
What about powering the coils and ignition controller from an external battery? Then run without charging, then with charging. If the problem then appears when alternator is charging, it may indicate a TCI sensor issue, or alternator issue.
I can do that. I have a dedicated circuit on the bike for just the coil and the ignition. One question: I can easily ground the ignition (TCI) to the separate battery. Powering the coil is no problem either. But what about the return (ground ) of the coil?
Do I need to hook up a ground wire on the engine case connect to the separate battery negative?
 
Bjorn I would cut the outer sheath off that bundle so I could check the individual wires. visual and flex inspection should be enough to confirm the wires are good. then tape it back up.
 
I can do that. I have a dedicated circuit on the bike for just the coil and the ignition. One question: I can easily ground the ignition (TCI) to the separate battery. Powering the coil is no problem either. But what about the return (ground ) of the coil?
Do I need to hook up a ground wire on the engine case connect to the separate battery negative?
Yes, you Will need a common ground
 
Yes, you Will need a common ground
Actually, I don't think you do need a common ground for the primary and secondary. If you think about it, an isolation transformer is nothing more than a pair of coils (pri and sec) that are electrically isolated from each other. Since we're try to find out if it's interference in the ground plane, the further isolated the better. It's worth a try anyway. :shrug:
 
So additional ground for the stand alone battery to the engine case or does it ground thru the orange (-) wire of the TCI?

I just don't want to fry anything.
 
So additional ground for the stand alone battery to the engine case or does it ground thru the orange (-) wire of the TCI?

I just don't want to fry anything.
On the one hand you want to isolate as much as possible to see if you can isolate the source of the interference... otoh, you don't want to burn anything up. I think I'd ad the extra gnd for the stand alone battery.
 
Just had a thought. I've read multiple times where it was claimed a "weak magnet" was causing poor running like we're seeing here. In most cases the purported "fix" was to glue another magnet on top of the existing magnet. What if it's not a weak magnet, but one that's too far away from the pickup?

I think we all agree that the environment the magnet runs in is electrically dirty.... mainly because of the magnetic field of the rotor. The further away the magnet, the weaker the signal it needs to see amongst all the noise. Gimmie a few here, I'll get some measurements from the SG.
 
Just had a thought. I've read multiple times where it was claimed a "weak magnet" was causing poor running like we're seeing here. In most cases the purported "fix" was to glue another magnet on top of the existing magnet. What if it's not a weak magnet, but one that's too far away from the pickup?

I think we all agree that the environment the magnet runs in is electrically dirty.... mainly because of the magnetic field of the rotor. The further away the magnet, the weaker the signal it needs to see amongst all the noise. Gimmie a few here, I'll get some measurements from the SG.
Yeah I've red it too, however the guy on the tread I linked to this morning stated the following:

No, I dug the magnet out and moved it so it coincided with the magnet on the original rotor, then drilled a shallow hole and JB welded a Radio Shack rare earth magnet in the correct position. Now the bike starts and gets up to about 2500 RPM where it sputters and coughs like mad. Unhookiing the regulator lets the bike run fine. I'm out of ideas, As an aside, the timing mark on the new rotor is not in the same place as the mark on the old rotor. It's about 4 or 5 degrees different. Removed the LH spark plug and TDC of that piston agrees with the old rotor timing mark. I placed the magnet on the new rotor to coincide with where it is on the old rotor.
I'm glad I still have the original ,non charging, rotor. At least the bike starts and runs fine with it installed. Just won't charge.:banghead:

Still interested in your findings!
 
OK, for starters, the stator has a lip or shoulder with the inner half of it being raised about 1.29mm higher than the outer half. All measurement were taken here in the raised inner half.

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The mount tabs on the pickup are offset to accommodate this shoulder. It was also measured on the raised inner tab.

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So, from the stator to the face of the rotor is 10.17mm (.401")

z stator mm.jpg z stator inch.jpg

From the face of the pickup to right next to the hole in the inner (raised) tab is 7.89mm (.310")

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So, the difference is 2.28mm (.091"). That's our gap.
I measured stator to rotor face directly off the SG which is a known good runner using the stock TCI and Gonzo box. Not wanting to take the pickup off, I measured off a spare and not the SG pickup. I suspect they'll all be close to the same.
 
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