Wiring problems after installed PMA

[nordic moto garage]

Hi,
I have some questions after I installed the pma kit from mikesxs. I've made a video to make it easier to understand my questions.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Lou_TX]

Lots going on with your wiring in the video.
Would you mind putting your questions here and numbering them? It would be easier to discuss each if we had a reference.
I actually have a few questions to start:
A) Are you cutting out any of those parts that you showed? Like safety relays etc?
B) Was the bike running and charging before?
C) Were your lights working?
I ask because we should know the original condition before the wiring changes happened. Any particular reason why you pulled all those wires and parts off?

 

[nordic moto garage]

Lots going on with your wiring in the video.
Would you mind putting your questions here and numbering them? It would be easier to discuss each if we had a reference.
I actually have a few questions to start:
A) Are you cutting out any of those parts that you showed? Like safety relays etc?
B) Was the bike running and charging before?
C) Were your lights working?
I ask because we should know the original condition before the wiring changes happened. Any particular reason why you pulled all those wires and parts off?

Thanks for the reply!

I will do it as soon as I can

A) Everything you saw on the floor (ome stator, voltage regulator, the relay, starter and battery). I want to keep the wiring as minimal as possible.
B) it was running. I didn't check the charging much, but I don't think there was any major problem with it. Reason I changed to pma is mainly to get rid of a battery and get rid of old electronics.
C) All the lights was working. Had some problems with the blinkers. Haven't look too much into that yet.

As I showed in the video; the blue/white cable went from the front brake light. The front brake light does not work, I bought a new switch but it looks like the new "switch" is the problem.

 

[Lou_TX]

Thank you for the answers.
D) So to confirm, you are removing the battery, starter solenoid and starter and it will be kick-start only?
E) What year is this again? 1972 or 1973? (sorry if I missed it in the video)
F) Front brake light? First time I am hearing about that. Please clarify.

The blue/white is ONLY for starter function. It travels from the starter decompression lever/switch to the starter relay to ground it. You do not need it because you won't be using electric start anyway.
The tail light uses a plain blue wire which also supplies power to anything that needs to be backlit at night, such as speedometer and tachometer bulbs.
The rear brake light is powered by a yellow wire from the front brake switch and rear brake switch.
Check your wiring to make sure some wires aren't crossed in a strange way. The blue/white should have never been connected to the tail lamp.

 

[Lou_TX]

Here is a diagram for a 1972 XS2 model, in color (hard to find).
I hope you find it useful.

 

[Lou_TX]

Here's another one, slightly spaced out which might be a little clearer.

 

[nordic moto garage]

Thank you for the answers.
D) So to confirm, you are removing the battery, starter solenoid and starter and it will be kick-start only?
E) What year is this again? 1972 or 1973? (sorry if I missed it in the video)
F) Front brake light? First time I am hearing about that. Please clarify.

The blue/white is ONLY for starter function. It travels from the starter decompression lever/switch to the starter relay to ground it. You do not need it because you won't be using electric start anyway.
The tail light uses a plain blue wire which also supplies power to anything that needs to be backlit at night, such as speedometer and tachometer bulbs.
The rear brake light is powered by a yellow wire from the front brake switch and rear brake switch.
Check your wiring to make sure some wires aren't crossed in a strange way. The blue/white should have never been connected to the tail lamp.

D) That is correct.
E) 1972
F) The switch on the lever seems like it has to be turned almost 360° to "activate" or let electricity through. The wiring is correct (I think). So if I press the lever the switch doesn't let electricity through, because it doesn't connect when it should. I've tested with a multimeter.

Thank you for the reply! I'll look into it when I'm back home.

G) The brown cable from the ignition coils leads to nowhere right now. Not sure if it's a double ground. Need to double check that. It used to be connected to the old relay. Which is now taken out.
H) The voltage regulator have one black and green cable that also have no place to go. I've read that I can take it out if I have a light switch. Then I need to turn of the light before starting. It's job was to cut light during start up to use less power from the battery when the starter works. Not sure if that's right?

 

[650Skull]

XS2 being the first year for electric start, Yamaha Jerry rigged the earlier looms to incorporate the safety relay. Brown wire from the coils feeds power through the relay, (cuts the power) to the solenoid when it starts. Brown wire is live.

Not sure what your on about with the regulator and light. XS2 never had the light on all the time, (that came in 78/79), only operated by the on/ off switch.

On the regulator, are you referencing the XS2 one or the PMA one

 

[Lou_TX]

F) I don't have enough knowledge on the start lever, you will need to wait for some smarter people to answer
G) The brown wire is NOT ground, as Skull mentioned, it is an ignition power wire, it has 12V on it with engine start/stop switch on. If you don't need it, insulate it properly and tuck it away somewhere. Or cut it off at the coils. Your choice.
H) The original regulator black wire is the ground. In general, black wires anywhere on the XS should be grounds. The green wire used to feed the old stator coil which you removed. I do not believe you need it but please reference the PMA conversion instructions because I am not familiar with those. (or post a link and I'll take a look) Be careful, the green headlight wire is separate. (I guess Yamaha didn't have enough colors back then to they used the same color on different circuits)

 

[Lou_TX]

H) I googled the PMA kit and it comes with its own regulator. When you removed the old regulator and old harness from the alternator, you should not have any green wire left because that one ran only between the regulator and alternator (it's the field coil excitation wire). I don't really want to watch the whole video again unless absolutely necessary. Do you still have a green wire leftover somewhere? Feel free to point me to a specific timestamp in your video.

 

[nordic moto garage]

H) I googled the PMA kit and it comes with its own regulator. When you removed the old regulator and old harness from the alternator, you should not have any green wire left because that one ran only between the regulator and alternator (it's the field coil excitation wire). I don't really want to watch the whole video again unless absolutely necessary. Do you still have a green wire leftover somewhere? Feel free to point me to a specific timestamp in your video.

H) The PMA kit regulator/rectifier connections is good. I have that figured out. But my old OME voltage regulator have 1 black

It's In the video: 2:07. I say relay in the video but book say it's a voltage regulator, there is also a brown cable that is connected to tail brake light + blinker relay.

The green and red cable from the regulator/rectifier from the PMA kit

XS2 being the first year for electric start, Yamaha Jerry rigged the earlier looms to incorporate the safety relay. Brown wire from the coils feeds power through the relay, (cuts the power) to the solenoid when it starts. Brown wire is live.

Not sure what your on about with the regulator and light. XS2 never had the light on all the time, (that came in 78/79), only operated by the on/ off switch.

On the regulator, are you referencing the XS2 one or the PMA one

Ah ok thanks! I forgot to ask if that was on later models.

It's the XS2 regulator I'm talking about, with a black, green and brown cable coming out of it. The brown goes to the foot brake and blinker relay. The black and green was connected to the alternator. If I look at the XS2 alternator it has 1 black, 1 green and 3 white(or yellow. Probably faded through the years). It's the black and green from the regulator I'm unsure off.

 

[nordic moto garage]

The green and red cable from the regulator/rectifier from the PMA kit

...is connected to the the capacitor.

J) On the XS2 there was 1 relay and 1 voltage regulator (that looks almost identical as the relay, just with a green thing on it) and a regulator. Tcbros.com have a video where they say you can get rid of the relay and regulator. I'm curious, can I remove the relay and the voltage regulator, or have I removed the wrong part since I'm left with a green and black cable that did go to the old XS2 alternator?

I'm at work right now, and don't have the bike in front of me. But I'll look into it more when I am

 

[650Skull]

The first wiring diagram was extensively researchedusing eBay, in conjunction with several XS2 and 73TX owners, and others. This is correct, except one of the yellow wires to the brake switch is green/yellow instead of yellow


This was the build thread for the diagram. A bit of 2 and frow but lots of pics that may help.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/72xs2-73tx-wiring-diagram.53244/

 

[nordic moto garage]

 

[nordic moto garage]

The first wiring diagram was extensively researchedusing eBay, in conjunction with several XS2 and 73TX owners, and others. This is correct, except one of the yellow wires to the brake switch is green/yellow instead of yellow


This was the build thread for the diagram. A bit of 2 and frow but lots of pics that may help.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/72xs2-73tx-wiring-diagram.53244/

I have studied the diagram you sent 650Skull and it's so much easier to understand.

K) There us two wires that did come from the xs2 alternator. From the alternator one green and one black (+ 3 white but now removed). These go to the regulator. And a brown goes out from the regulator to flasher relay, stop switch++
Is it possible to take out the xs2 regulator and put a fuse on the brown and connect it to the (PMA) capacitor?

Because right now I can't see that the brown "main light" cable is getting any power.

 

[650Skull]

I'm not the electrical guru. Although I put the diagram together my understanding is average at best.

I think working from the battery into the loom is best. Red is main power. All power on Blue and Brown is switched power.

The brown circuit from the switch to the regulator is switched power.

I'm sure and think the capacitor is the power source instead of, (can be in conjuction with) a battery before the switch. So no, I don't think it works on the brown wire

 

[650Skull]

Here is a simplified diagram with a capacitor PMA.

 

[nordic moto garage]

I'm not the electrical guru. Although I put the diagram together my understanding is average at best.

I think working from the battery into the loom is best. Red is main power. All power on Blue and Brown is switched power.

The brown circuit from the switch to the regulator is switched power.

I'm sure and think the capacitor is the power source instead of, (can be in conjuction with) a battery before the switch. So no, I don't think it works on the brown wire

Well, you put a really nice diagram together, so it's kinda guru-ish.

Thank you!

 

[Its been a long time]

If I might be a little critical of that circuit diagram? No offence intended.

The item labelled "key" presently is not fused. I would move the 20amp fuse to under the key in that diagram. Then everything downstream of the fuse has some protection.

It might not be obvious, but there's going to be an ignition trigger associated with the igniter and it's also going to need power.

Hope that helps a little.

 

[650Skull]

If I might be a little critical of that circuit diagram? No offence intended.

The item labelled "key" presently is not fused. I would move the 20amp fuse to under the key in that diagram. Then everything downstream of the fuse has some protection.

It might not be obvious, but there's going to be an ignition trigger associated with the igniter and it's also going to need power.

Hope that helps a little.

Which diagram are you referencing Long time?