Wiring problems after installed PMA

I presume the spark plugs are wet with fuel after you've tried several times to start it. If so, then maybe it's time to start checking the sparks are happening at the right time on both cylinders.
Yeah, I've read somewhere that many people don't need to do a timing after installing the pma and that they fire right up. I'll check that out now.

Edit: i checked the sparkplugs and they are dry. I know the mixture screw is almost a full turn due to unoriginal airfilters (and I didn't get it running om 3/4 turn).
 
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OK
the charging circuit should be straightforward and hooked up
And the bike is on points
Provided all loose wires are capped so they don't ground Are Not touching the metal
I can spot a battery there on the floor in the video
I would consider have it charged and installed instead of the capacitor
First via hand or some tool holding the positive wire to the + battery post so not voltage hits yourself
Pay attention so it is not happening any sound or smoke
And if it checks out how does the neutral light look
If nothing strange ---try will it start
If it starts measure charging Voltage across battery

Do service on the ground wire so it is solid grounded at lover left in picture below
You can pull a temporary extra if you like. keep both Perhaps starter jumper cable from minus to Cylinder fins


View attachment 330197
The battery you saw, used to be on the bike. I got this PMA kit which is pretty expensive getting though Toll and shipping from the states. So by installing the battery again would make the whole purchase a waste. The bike ran fine with the original altenator etc. I just want to simplify the wiring, battery delete and get a more reliable bike for trips etc, but a old classic:)
 
The battery you saw, used to be on the bike. I got this PMA kit which is pretty expensive getting though Toll and shipping from the states. So by installing the battery again would make the whole purchase a waste. The bike ran fine with the original altenator etc. I just want to simplify the wiring, battery delete and get a more reliable bike for trips etc, but a old classic:)
For testing only now ...getting it to start and run and charge .. then go back to capacitor.
 
Yeah, I've read somewhere that many people don't need to do a timing after installing the pma and that they fire right up. I'll check that out now.

Edit: i checked the sparkplugs and they are dry. I know the mixture screw is almost a full turn due to unoriginal airfilters (and I didn't get it running om 3/4 turn).
Even if it's timed correctly, it could be timed on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. Just something to check out so you know it's 100% correct.

Dry spark plugs is a bit odd if you've tried several times to start with choke. Removing them after several failed starts, the plugs should be damp and smell strongly of fuel.
 
Even if it's timed correctly, it could be timed on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. Just something to check out so you know it's 100% correct.

Dry spark plugs is a bit odd if you've tried several times to start with choke. Removing them after several failed starts, the plugs should be damp and smell strongly of fuel.
Made a 30 sec video, because is easier to show it than to write it.

The right side spark actually was a bit wet. But the left plug was dry.
 
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The valves .. can be right
But with points it can
fire at the right firing point but with open exhaust valve not firing any mixture
I don't remember which point goes where or how it is wired further

Which wont happen on a waste spark system .. It fires both plugs but on the open exhaust valve side
it is of no use " Wasted " but on the other side correct and firing that cylinder

Exhaust valve at front
 

Ok. Turned out that I have ignored or forgot that the taillight is always on when turning the key. So I just disconnected the wires to the taillight and it fired up after a few kicks (3). Next is adding a on/off switch for the taillight.
 
Hi again, it starts easily. First kick this morning, cold engine. But it slowly runs weak and dies. Is it a carburetor problem? In this video I tried to give it a little throttle to keep it running but it dies anyway.

 
2nd video it fires up on 2 cylinder then cuts to 1. Check the temperature of the exhausts to find which one isn't firing.
I finally got some time off to check back on it. I started it up today. It seems like it's running on both now. Even though I haven't done any thing. But I could be wrong. It seems both exhaus is the same temperature with the same amount of air coming out. Both are hot. I'll post a video and maybe you can listen and see.

My conclusion is that the carbs need some adjustments and maybe I need to clean the jet again (I can't remember if I did the jet or not when I clean them). I feel it runs not 100% smooth, but not sure. Plus when I take the choke off, it dies. Not getting enough air?

 
buongiorno, ho seguito attentamente la conversazione, anche io sto realizzando una xs2 e vorrei modificare alcune cose... sono ancora in fase riflessiva.

Una domanda: questa configurazione con PMA e condensatore è davvero molto affidabile?
Vedo molte motociclette sul web che usano questa configurazione, ma non è possibile sapere per quanti chilometri o anni.
Grazie e spero di poter contribuire anch'io un giorno.
 
good morning, I followed the conversation carefully, I'm also making an xs2 and I would like to modify some things... I'm still in a reflective phase.

a question, is this configuration with pma and capacitor really very reliable?
I see many motorcycles on the web that use this configuration but it is not possible to know for how many kilometers or years.
thank you and I hope to contribute one day too
 
good morning, I followed the conversation carefully, I'm also making an xs2 and I would like to modify some things... I'm still in a reflective phase.

a question, is this configuration with pma and capacitor really very reliable?
I see many motorcycles on the web that use this configuration but it is not possible to know for how many kilometers or years.
thank you and I hope to contribute one day too
Not an expert but I can try
There are various quality on the PMA s especially the regulator --- i believe the best are Shindengen what i have heard
But they are expensive so they are pirated and pirated regulators have worse reputation and can fry the installation.

The capacitor is an electronic component that is aging with time typically --dont know how problematic it is for MC s

The Yamaha alternator is all in all working but with age the rotor will fail and a rewind or replacement is needed
a rewind ca $ 100 ..or nearer $ 200 can be more
rectifiers and regulators are taken from the auto industry cost " Nothing " --- To speak off

The stock is probably the winner Once it is setup ..it can work for some years
PMA gets bad press and have more problems .With capacitor starting problems are here on the forum now and then

But my view is that it is not as bad as its reputation there are cheap solutions out there that can be justified in fex an evaluation period
and are more likely to fail.

But to sum it up
Provided the alternator rotor that fail and stater that seldom fail are OK ..
Happy days should be there
 
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