Won't shift when running

borjawil

XS650 Enthusiast
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78 xs650 clutch pack was seized up so replaced the cork discs. Now have a working clutch. Cleaned out and repacked the work gear ball bearing and rod.

Adjusted cold by loosening nut, turning screw in until felt a little resistance, backed out a 1/8-1/4 turn, tightened nut. Adjusted at lever for slack.

Start in neutral, shift down and can let off clutch and move forward. Cannot shift back up into neutral or 2nd.
 
the lever won't move it from gear to gear but it will when the motor's off?
Then prolly clutch drag is your enemy.
My first try would be snugging the adjuster screw a bit more.
To be clear, You should fully slack off the lever adjuster before setting the cover screw.
 
I notice Gary was on it also
Assuming you can shift it back with engine off.
I believe it is adjusted wrong
There are better methods perhaps but I put it on central stand .Pull in the clutch and put in 1 st gear
Wheel spins .Pull in the clutch put your foot against the tire try to stop it
Then you adjust so you are able to stop it with your foot and clutch in.
And getting a feel for what seems to be appropriate.
And then tries to shift it to neutral and 2 I do that on the stand also.
Then at the road trip I bring the two tools needed and adjust if needed out on the road
It can be more difficult when warm and need a slight re adjustment.
If no central stand I can be done out on the road without the foot involved..
 
Still having issues, got it to where I can use my hand and shift the bike, but it's too hard with my foot. Should the ball bearing inside the worm gear mechanism come out easily? I popped it out by removing the screw and hitting it out but it won't go back in by just pushing it.
 
The staking is intended to keep the ball captive, remove from the threaded end where the screw is inserted.
 
Everything is clean. Bearing has a small circular groove from push rod. Push rod has a simple on that end as well. The smaller diameter end of rod contacts the bearing right?

When I pull my clutch in the kickstart does not engage. Normal?

With bike running and screw at just hitting resistance, bike stalls when put in gear. Left but loose and tightened screw until bike jumps a little but doesn't stall. Can only shift with hand. Tightened 1/4,1/2, full turn and tested. At a full turn easier to shift but only with hand unless down shifting with foot but still hard. At this point the kick starter doesn't engage as if I'm pulling the lever in as previously mentioned.

Ideas? With the kickstarter not engaging with the screw over tightened, it seems that the clutch is engaging/disengaging, except for the light resistance felt normal setting and bike stalling. So something on the other end is an issue. What should I look at? I was able to shift through multiple gears by hand while running, and easily with foot when not running.
 
May want to take a look at the indexing of the worm gear mech. There is a write up on the forum about it. Also yes with the clutch level pulled the kick starter should not turn the crankshaft, aka move freely.
 
Are you doing this with the bike moving? Shifting with bike not rolling is always going to be hard. Oil between the clutch plates causes lots of drag. If bike isn't ready for the road try it with the rear wheel in the air so it's free to spin. That should make shifting easy.
A possibility is an incorrectly assembled clutch. See threads about hole and mark aligning on clutch basket.
getting down there in likelihood but not impossible is warped clutch plates.
Yes small end of push rod faces worm
 
Please explain how you shift by hand. And why there is a difference shifting with foot or hand

I was able to shift through multiple gears by hand while running, and easily with foot when not running.

I would expect the foot to be stronger
Do you have some kind of Jockey Shift ?? Picture ?
 
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