They have a very distinctive call. Unfortunately I didn't get it on my video, but you can hear it here:
https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Red-bellied_Woodpecker/sounds
I lived in a cedar house in North Georgia adjacent to the Chattahoochee National forest. We had an abundance of woodpeckers including those big pileated woodpeckers. We also had a serious problem with carpenter bees. The combination was pretty bad. A pileated woodpecker can decimate structural timbers in a heartbeat. It’s incredible, the chunks of wood they can throw.
My present house is brick on all sides. What isn’t brick is Hardie Board. The bees don’t like it. So, the woodpeckers keep to the dead trees.

I live in a log home and I have to watch constantly for carpenter bees. The bore 3/8" holes and lay their eggs in those holes, and the Pileated Woodpeckers love the larvae, Yes they have shredded my fascia boards in the past. I have found that CRC brake cleaner is a deadly and inexpensive way to deal with carpenter bees, plus I feel like a gunner on a B-17 when I shoot them down.I lived in a cedar house in North Georgia adjacent to the Chattahoochee National forest. We had an abundance of woodpeckers including those big pileated woodpeckers. We also had a serious problem with carpenter bees. The combination was pretty bad. A pileated woodpecker can decimate structural timbers in a heartbeat. It’s incredible, the chunks of wood they can throw.
My present house is brick on all sides. What isn’t brick is Hardie Board. The bees don’t like it. So, the woodpeckers keep to the dead trees.
Badminton racket works great on the bees if you can afford to stay vigilant. Turn your back and they drill a hole.I live in a log home and I have to watch constantly for carpenter bees. The bore 3/8" holes and lay their eggs in those holes, and the Pileated Woodpeckers love the larvae, Yes they have shredded my fascia boards in the past. I have found that CRC brake cleaner is a deadly and inexpensive way to deal with carpenter bees, plus I feel like a gunner on a B-17 when I shoot them down.
Most of my damage looked like the birds have x-ray vision. The bees drill in, then turn 90 degrees. The birds seem to know this. That’s how the damage looks.View attachment 330892
https://tpwd.texas.gov/publications/pwdpubs/media/pwd_bk_w7000_0616.pdf
Did your damage look like this damage to a CEDAR house,? Did a Google, and this was the first hit. The pamphlet says the most common reason for woodpecker damage is nest-building, and the solution is to provide nest/roost boxes right where the damage occurs. Foraging, as was your case, is also given as a reason.
Really interesting. I'd never heard of or thought about woodpecker-caused structure damage.
The dead limb that my woodpeckers are nesting in is quite rotten, and I doubt it will survive this winter, but I'm going to make sure and will cut it down. In it's place I will hang a nest/roost box, plans for which are given in the linked PDF pamphlet.
I was losing my battle with carpenter bees around my garage. I used to knock them out of the air with a flyswatter! I tried traps, sprays etc but they always got back into the wood. My permanent solution was to clad everything in aluminum. They must sniff the remnants of their old homes because they still buzz around the areas where the holes used to be.Had a bad carpenter (bore) bee problem here ages ago. Did some research. Found out the females have a stinger, the males do not...
Females are docile... they'll avoid you like the plague. Males are agressive... they'll attack you, 'cept they don't have a stinger. They're all bark and no bite.
Once I learned that I took great delight in swatting the bastards outta the sky with my bare hand. Swat the buggers as far as I could, then walk over and step on 'em. The females got whatever sprayable, flammable liquid the was at arms reach at the time.

Just to be clear, I wouldn’t want to harm a woodpecker. They just want to eat. I have a lot of them here, as well as carpenter bees. The brick house is the cure. Or, otherwise get rid of the insects. Bricks are expensive!View attachment 330922
https://www.amazon.com/Sunnyside-corporation-76904M-Advanced-Insecticide/dp/B01FWIP112
I never would have thought woodpeckers and insects could be so destructive.
I had a roach problem in my kitchen. I sealed and patched every hole, opening, crack, and crevice, and then I painted the insides of my cabinets with paint that I added this to. It worked for me.
I'll bet it would work on carpenter bees.
In North Georgia there is a large cottage industry making those. I could buy them even at my local Ace Hardware. I hung them all around my house. They catch plenty. Not a cure. The shame is that they are pollinators. I have a son-in-law who puts out attractive carpenter bee habitats. They’re easier than working on the porch railings. He claims they help a lot, and don’t kill his pollinators.Carpenter Bees?
Our house has a lot of Virginia Juniper in trim and siding and it seems anything with a width of a half inch or more is subject to attack.
Using wood paddle bits in 1/2" and 1", I took some small "cedar" log ends and empty containers to make traps.
Bore a central hole of one inch in the middle, upwards on the log but not entirely through. Use the 1/2" bit and intersect with the main one inch bore, coming in on a 45 degree angle upwards. Drill a few of these entrances. Clean the passageways of all swarf.
Drill a 1" hole through the lid of the container and secure it with a couple screws. Plastic containers are easiest over glass and metal lids. Bees see the holes, enter, climb up and then drop down into the container.
The badminton rackets are retired now for the most part.
I leave the carcasses in thinking pheromones may attract more. They work a charm.View attachment 330930
I tried making home made traps before and never caught one bee all summer. Should they return I may try again.Carpenter Bees?
Our house has a lot of Virginia Juniper in trim and siding and it seems anything with a width of a half inch or more is subject to attack.
Using wood paddle bits in 1/2" and 1", I took some small "cedar" log ends and empty containers to make traps.
Bore a central hole of one inch in the middle, upwards on the log but not entirely through. Use the 1/2" bit and intersect with the main one inch bore, coming in on a 45 degree angle upwards. Drill a few of these entrances. Clean the passageways of all swarf.
Drill a 1" hole through the lid of the container and secure it with a couple screws. Plastic containers are easiest over glass and metal lids. Bees see the holes, enter, climb up and then drop down into the container.
The badminton rackets are retired now for the most part.
I leave the carcasses in thinking pheromones may attract more. They work a charm.View attachment 330930
I read to make the entrance holes 3/8", I built one at 3/8", didn't catch a one. 1/2" is the magic number.I tried making home made traps before and never caught one bee all summer. Should they return I may try again.
There is also a product called NBS 30. I used it in the paint/stain on the fascia boards I replaced. seems to have worked on them. Time to re-stain the remaining fascia boards.View attachment 330922
https://www.amazon.com/Sunnyside-corporation-76904M-Advanced-Insecticide/dp/B01FWIP112
I never would have thought woodpeckers and insects could be so destructive.
I had a roach problem in my kitchen. I sealed and patched every hole, opening, crack, and crevice, and then I painted the insides of my cabinets with paint that I added this to. It worked for me.
I'll bet it would work on carpenter bees.