XS charge ignition problems.

[650Skull]

Imagine I take the petcock off and blow it out and that solves the problem… wouldn’t that be something… Also, this petcocks have reserve and I’ve heard certain ones can cause vacuum somehow??

This is

They need vacuum to operate..............are yours still vacuum type or manual................the tell is Vacuum petcocks have a prime position instead of off.

Couldn't be bothered to reread the thread to see if the info has already been posted..........

The Conversation i was having

You made the right choice to not to read all the bullshit above ohhh right, i remember now with the prime position thing, they dont have that. Not sure if these are vacuum or not? I though vm34s were NOT vacuum ? as opposed to a CV carb... i need to figure out how to upload a vid

As JP points out, the tank is from a Kwaka so maybe not..............And its not the carbs that that Vacuum is related to.

Lots of cross talk makes for confusion

 

[kwhy3000]

This is

The Conversation i was having


As JP points out, the tank is from a Kwaka so maybe not..............And its not the carbs that that Vacuum is related to.

Lots of cross talk makes for confusion

I reread and see what you were saying now. Lots o cross talk

 

[kwhy3000]

Not sure why I can’t upload a video, could just show you what I’m talking about. Tried once, seemed to work then didn’t. Kinda like my bike.

 

[jpdevol]

Video has to be uploaded to Youtube, then link that URL here

 

[kwhy3000]

 

[jpdevol]

That's likely normal; once the bowl is full and the float valve shuts, it'll leave air in the line. When you tap the carb - and jiggle the float - it lets a little fuel in.

Can't see cap style in previous pic - plastic cap still there - worth a look?

 

[kwhy3000]

That's likely normal; once the bowl is full and the float valve shuts, it'll leave air in the line. When you tap the carb - and jiggle the float - it lets a little fuel in.

Can't see cap style in previous pic - plastic cap still there - worth a look?

Cam style, also, this vid the cap was off for good measure. Exhausting all options as you can tell…

 

[Dirty Minnie]

Hey did you ever get this resolved I'm having the exact problems to a T

 

[jpdevol]

There are multiple problems discussed in this thread, some not pertaining to the title, some resolved, some unknown; what problem are you having?

 

[ApparatusMC]

let me join the multitude that are having issues with the latest Charge2 auto advance ignition.
I let one of my customers bring his bike in to do the mechanical part of the installation so we could do the electrical and timing part.
Issues so far:
the timing is AFTER TDC at idle with the unit at full advance position
Instructions suck..illustrations show installing the trigger rotor 2 different ways. step side inward as well as step side out. Obviously this has a huge effect on trigger point. With the step side IN the magnets are right on the outer edge of the blue stator. This does not seem right.
The pins in the cross shaft are about the same length as the diameter of the shaft, and a loose fit so it is possible to assemble the rotor without locating on the pins.
All this being said I caught all of these nuances of design failure during assembly. I have installed Lucas Rita, Boyer, Pazon, Tri-Spark, and Vape on a variety of bikes with no issues. This one has me puzzled. It seems like the notch that engages the pin on the RH side is milled in the wrong spot.
The bike starts and idles but that is about it, The timing is about 10-15 deg ATDC
This is a stock points model with no mods and a good charging system
HAS ANYONE HAD GOOD RESULTS WITH THIS UNIT?

 

[kwhy3000]

let me join the multitude that are having issues with the latest Charge2 auto advance ignition.
I let one of my customers bring his bike in to do the mechanical part of the installation so we could do the electrical and timing part.
Issues so far:
the timing is AFTER TDC at idle with the unit at full advance position
Instructions suck..illustrations show installing the trigger rotor 2 different ways. step side inward as well as step side out. Obviously this has a huge effect on trigger point. With the step side IN the magnets are right on the outer edge of the blue stator. This does not seem right.
The pins in the cross shaft are about the same length as the diameter of the shaft, and a loose fit so it is possible to assemble the rotor without locating on the pins.
All this being said I caught all of these nuances of design failure during assembly. I have installed Lucas Rita, Boyer, Pazon, Tri-Spark, and Vape on a variety of bikes with no issues. This one has me puzzled. It seems like the notch that engages the pin on the RH side is milled in the wrong spot.
The bike starts and idles but that is about it, The timing is about 10-15 deg ATDC
This is a stock points model with no mods and a good charging system
HAS ANYONE HAD GOOD RESULTS WITH THIS UNIT?

You’re rocking the blue version of the xcharge? If so that’s the full auto electronic advance aka no mechanical advance on right side cover, springs bob weights, etc which brings more questions of are the springs correct/ do the hash marks line up/etc. you won’t have to worry about that but I have also been dealing with the trigger rotor debacle. Magnets are running way further out than they should. Mine wouldn’t fire when mounted opposite direction. If yours is running at idle at 10-15 atdc can’t your loosen the trigger unit to retard the timing? Or are you maxed out? Personally I think these units are garbage or we got a bad batch or something. I spent countless hours trying to figure this out and all signs point to the XCharge. What a waste

 

[Universal J moto]

My XS charge story….. the red one. That uses the stock advancer…. Upon installation the bike started and I was in the process of setting the timing, when strange things began happened intermittently. The timing light would show intermittent spark and obviously the bike would misfire. If I sat on the bike, all seemed fine?! Back on the sidestand, it became intermittent again. Turns out… the rotor machining placed the magnets barely able to trigger the pickups, and when the advance rod shifted to the left ever so slightly, it would loose trigger and cut out. I could physically touch the advance rod to keep it to the right, and it would run. So, I removed the rotor and machined it to sit the magnets in the correct position and all was well.
Until two months later when the Hall effect trigger pick up plate failed and left me stranded with no ignition. . And that’s my story.

 

[ApparatusMC]

I am maxed out on adjustment and still way retarded. since timing is off the scale it is hard to tell, but it appears that there is no advance when the rpm’s increase. The unit is definitely bad.

 

[ApparatusMC]

You’re rocking the blue version of the xcharge? If so that’s the full auto electronic advance aka no mechanical advance on right side cover, springs bob weights, etc which brings more questions of are the springs correct/ do the hash marks line up/etc. you won’t have to worry about that but I have also been dealing with the trigger rotor debacle. Magnets are running way further out than they should. Mine wouldn’t fire when mounted opposite direction. If yours is running at idle at 10-15 atdc can’t your loosen the trigger unit to retard the timing? Or are you maxed out? Personally I think these units are garbage or we got a bad batch or something. I spent countless hours trying to figure this out and all signs point to the XCharge. What a waste

maxed out on adjustment
It is the blue unit with no mechanical advance.
I was thinking about pulling the pin and moving the rotor to a spot where the timing is right but the bottom line is we shouldn’t have to mess around with something that was supposedly “bolt on”. If I wanted to do R&D I would adapt one of the Pazons or Boyers I have in stock for Brit bikes.

 

[kwhy3000]

maxed out on adjustment
It is the blue unit with no mechanical advance.
I was thinking about pulling the pin and moving the rotor to a spot where the timing is right but the bottom line is we shouldn’t have to mess around with something that was supposedly “bolt on”. If I wanted to do R&D I would adapt one of the Pazons or Boyers I have in stock for Brit bikes.

May as well mess with it to see if you can get the timing right and grind down the other side so the magnets are picked up. I dunno. I must say I explained all these things to MikesXS and they did send me new units but they all fizzled out, three units, even after grinding down left side. TRASH.

 

[kwhy3000]

My XS charge story….. the red one. That uses the stock advancer…. Upon installation the bike started and I was in the process of setting the timing, when strange things began happened intermittently. The timing light would show intermittent spark and obviously the bike would misfire. If I sat on the bike, all seemed fine?! Back on the sidestand, it became intermittent again. Turns out… the rotor machining placed the magnets barely able to trigger the pickups, and when the advance rod shifted to the left ever so slightly, it would loose trigger and cut out. I could physically touch the advance rod to keep it to the right, and it would run. So, I removed the rotor and machined it to sit the magnets in the correct position and all was well.
Until two months later when the Hall effect trigger pick up plate failed and left me stranded with no ignition. . And that’s my story.

Sounds familiar. Bastards. Did you switch back to points or a different brand of electronic ignition?

 

[Dirty Minnie]

Sounds like this thing is fucking bunk and get a boyer and call it a day!

 

[ApparatusMC]

My customer will call XS tomorrow….I am sure they have heard it all by now. I recommended sending the unit back. I did some testing by removing the index pin in the cam and made an educated guess about where to lock the drive shaft down, and got pretty close, but I am not confident about the overall function of the unit. What started this off is the mechanical advance is shot. I will put the points back in and source a new or good used mechanical advance assembly. At least points don’t leave you stranded. I have over 20 bikes and 5 or 6 have electronic ignition. SR500, Late XS650, a couple of BMW’s All stock and trouble free.

 

[Universal J moto]

Sounds familiar. Bastards. Did you switch back to points or a different brand of electronic ignition?

The bike was put back to points to get it running again. I have three (!) to sell this spring, so didn’t want to invest in another electronic ignition unless the buyer wants one. My current build for myself is a 750 rephase, and I’m using the Pandemonium ignition system. We will see how that goes.

 

[kwhy3000]

The bike was put back to points to get it running again. I have three (!) to sell this spring, so didn’t want to invest in another electronic ignition unless the buyer wants one. My current build for myself is a 750 rephase, and I’m using the Pandemonium ignition system. We will see how that goes.

Right on. I'd be curious to see how it works out. I'm building up a 750 right now too, stock 360 crank though and am thinking of going with HHB crank ignition .