Xs performance ideas and experiences

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Outsider53

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Hey, I'm new to the forum. I hate to beat a dead horse because there's countless "performance" threads I've read. Given my research I've comprised a list of upgades I'd like to add to the build moving forward. Looking for wisdom from those who have been there & done it to offer ideas & opinions.

Build so far:
Tapered neck bearings
Forks lowered 1.5" w/ racetech springs & emulators
Custom weight hagon shocks
Brass swingarm bushing
Lighter weight front disk
Shinko front & rear
520 sprocket conversion

List to do:
Hi flow filters
Lectron 36mm carbs
Ported head
shell 1 cam
Possible Bigger valves??
750 bore/ increase compression
Balance/weld crank??
Electronic ignition
Heiden 8 plate clutch kit
1.25" commando exhaust

These are ideas, nothing set in stone.

I know for the price, I could spend less on a clapped out R1 but that's not what I'm after. This bike means a lot to me so I'd like the build it as kick ass as possible. Thank you for looking.
Screenshot_20250410_113214_Gallery.jpg
 
I don't plan to race this bike. Just rip around. The short answer is weight saving. I know there isnt a lot to save there, but wanting it to be as light and nimble as possible, while keeping a fairly original appearance. That and I like to be different.
 
My feedback in line

Outsider53 said:
Hey, I'm new to the forum. I hate to beat a dead horse because there's countless "performance" threads I've read. Given my research I've comprised a list of upgades I'd like to add to the build moving forward. Looking for wisdom from those who have been there & done it to offer ideas & opinions.

Build so far:
Tapered neck bearings: yes
Forks lowered 1.5" w/ racetech springs & emulators: 0.5" is enough or you run a risk of bottoming out
Custom weight hagon shocks ok. consider longer shocks. not sure what work on the special, but the standard takes 13.25"
Brass swingarm bushing yes
Lighter weight front disk ok, not critical, but smaller diameter master (11mm works great) if using stock single caliper
Shinko front & rear
520 sprocket conversion: not necessary

List to do:
Hi flow filters: UNIPods work great
Lectron 36mm carbs: i heard lectrons are not optimal, idle speed, etc. go with mikuni vm
Ported head yes
shell 1 cam yes
Possible Bigger valves?? $$$$
750 bore/ increase compression yes, 9.5:1 is plenty
Balance/weld crank?? does not hurt, especially for big power
Electronic ignition yes
Heiden 8 plate clutch kit get it from gggGary
1.25" commando exhaust 1.5" for the bored motor. 1.75" is too big for around town

These are ideas, nothing set in stone.

I know for the price, I could spend less on a clapped out R1 but that's not what I'm after. This bike means a lot to me so I'd like the build it as kick ass as possible. Thank you for looking.
View attachment 347803
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Outsider53 said:
I don't plan to race this bike. Just rip around. The short answer is weight saving. I know there isnt a lot to save there, but wanting it to be as light and nimble as possible, while keeping a fairly original appearance. That and I like to be different.
Click to expand...
Do you want it to look more or less like a stock Special, with the rather laidback riding position that goes with it? On my 77 D model, I have an LSL alloy handlebar with only 2" rise, and moderate rearsets. These mods both lose weight and improve the riding position and weight distribution with a rider onboard. A LiPoFe battery also easily saves 4 lbs.....
 
Last edited:
arcticXS said:
Do you want it to look more or less like a stock Special, with the rather laidback riding position that goes with it? On my 77 D model, I have an LSL alloy handlebar with only 2" rise, and rearsets. These mods both lose weight and improve the riding position and weight distribution with a rider onboard. A LiPoFe battery also easily saves 4 lbs.....
Click to expand...
There was a thread about how to convert a special to a standard. Wonder how many people did that
 
jetmechmarty said:
Why the chain conversion? Are you going to race?

I’ll stop there and ask you what do you want to do with this bike?
Click to expand...
I would argue that a modern, good quality #520 chain is more than strong enough for any XS650. Bikes with 100 hp or more can use #520. Weight savings are just a bonus, and if chains and sprockets need replacing anyway, the cost of this weight savings is in fact zero.
I would rather ask: Why use a #530 chain on a 40-65 hp motorcycle?
(The only argument for a heavier chain MIGHT be the unusually small rear sprockets on the XS, giving a slightly higher load on the chain than more common 37-43 t sprockets)
 
https://www.hughshandbuilt.com/product/xs650-sr500-solid-riser-bushings/

I put a set of these on and have zero regrets.

I was running drag bars and rearsets. Also have a PMA kit. Bronze swingarm bushings too.

All the stuff I ever bolted on sounds fancy, and if it made any actual difference, there's a solid chance it's because I wanted it to and so therefore perceived it to.

However! The 2 things I remember making an actual legitimate difference were replacing the tired stock rear shocks and getting a new rear tire.
 
Outsider53 said:
Thank you for your input! I forgot to mention the master cylinder on my list. Your recommendation is exactly what I have! Along with a Speigler braided line
Click to expand...
For less unsprung weight on the front, replace the heavy steel front fender with a fiberglass or aluminum one plus a fork brace. This will save at at least one pound, maybe more. The stock headlight and stock speedo/ tacho are also rather heavy, but they do contribute a lot to the great looks of the XS. Aftermarket options can save several pounds, if you the looks appeal to you. Bar end mirrors can also help save some weight.
Aftermarket reproductions of the earlier XS2 type indicator lights are also significantly lighter than the later type.
Making the bike lighter will have minimal input on reliability, and improve acceleration, handling and braking, even with a stock engine, suspension and brakes.
 
Outsider53 said:
List to do:
Hi flow filters
Lectron 36mm carbs
Ported head
shell 1 cam
Possible Bigger valves??
750 bore/ increase compression
Balance/weld crank??
Electronic ignition
Heiden 8 plate clutch kit
1.25" commando exhaust
Click to expand...
I totally understand your thinking with regard to the R1 it is exactly how I think.
This is my opinion on your to do list:
Bare in mind that I know nothing about you or your abilities. I have added a couple of others that you may not have thought of.

Lectron 36mm carbs, nice carbs but 34 is better for the road. You may struggle to find help with jetting. There is more info on Mikuni VM series carbs. Another high end suggestion is Mikuni RS carbs. Mid range GPZ 500 carbs, these are CV carbs but a good option but not bolt on.
https://mikunioz.com/product-category/mikuni-motorcycle-kits/yamaha-carb-kits/?v=c97b334ffd41
There are 3 carb options on this website.

Ported Head: Yes after a big bore this is the best money you can spend. Just get someone who knows how to port XS’s to do.

Shell No1 cam. Yes but don’t forget to budget for and fit better valve springs. A more race orientated cam the Megacycle 250-30 will idle nicely and gives a good midrange with a boost at the top. But is harder on the valve gear so if planning big millage use the Shell 100 or Web 59a which is practically the same.

Bigger Valves: yes if your existing valves are toast but otherwise not entirely essential , this can get expensive.

750 Big bore/ higher compression. Yes number 1 best bang for buck power gain. Bump compression? why not but anything above 10:1 on the road detracts from the experience. Also Higher comp can make the carbs more fussy to set up. Also if ditching the E start it will make kick starting more difficult.

Balance/ weld crank. Does your crank need rebuilding? Balancing is expensive and not money well spent. Spend the time and get the crank running as true as you can. Welding for road bikes only if it takes less than (from memory) 7 tons to press apart.
Electronic Ignition: Yes, Yes Yes. It will enhance your riding experience. Consider a combo CDI and Alternator package like Vape or Electrex world.
8 Plate clutch. Yes again but buy from forum member GGG Gary.

Exhaust. Consider fitting anti reversion inserts in the head even with porting they help.

High flow oil pump: No if your existing oil pump is ok, yes if it needs replacing.

Rephasing . Gets expensive , no huge benefit apart from novelty. ( all my motors are rephased )

Weight loss: Never a bad thing.

I think your rear shocks are going to let the front end upgrades down. Hagons are ok if your on a budget but there are much better options out there.
See how you feel about them after a few fast sweepers.
 
Signal said:
I totally understand your thinking with regard to the R1 it is exactly how I think.
This is my opinion on your to do list:
Bare in mind that I know nothing about you or your abilities. I have added a couple of others that you may not have thought of.

Lectron 36mm carbs, nice carbs but 34 is better for the road. You may struggle to find help with jetting. There is more info on Mikuni VM series carbs. Another high end suggestion is Mikuni RS carbs. Mid range GPZ 500 carbs, these are CV carbs but a good option but not bolt on.
https://mikunioz.com/product-category/mikuni-motorcycle-kits/yamaha-carb-kits/?v=c97b334ffd41
There are 3 carb options on this website.

Ported Head: Yes after a big bore this is the best money you can spend. Just get someone who knows how to port XS’s to do.

Shell No1 cam. Yes but don’t forget to budget for and fit better valve springs. A more race orientated cam the Megacycle 250-30 will idle nicely and gives a good midrange with a boost at the top. But is harder on the valve gear so if planning big millage use the Shell 100 or Web 59a which is practically the same.

Bigger Valves: yes if your existing valves are toast but otherwise not entirely essential , this can get expensive.

750 Big bore/ higher compression. Yes number 1 best bang for buck power gain. Bump compression? why not but anything above 10:1 on the road detracts from the experience. Also Higher comp can make the carbs more fussy to set up. Also if ditching the E start it will make kick starting more difficult.

Balance/ weld crank. Does your crank need rebuilding? Balancing is expensive and not money well spent. Spend the time and get the crank running as true as you can. Welding for road bikes only if it takes less than (from memory) 7 tons to press apart.
Electronic Ignition: Yes, Yes Yes. It will enhance your riding experience. Consider a combo CDI and Alternator package like Vape or Electrex world.
8 Plate clutch. Yes again but buy from forum member GGG Gary.

Exhaust. Consider fitting anti reversion inserts in the head even with porting they help.

High flow oil pump: No if your existing oil pump is ok, yes if it needs replacing.

Rephasing . Gets expensive , no huge benefit apart from novelty. ( all my motors are rephased )

Weight loss: Never a bad thing.

I think your rear shocks are going to let the front end upgrades down. Hagons are ok if your on a budget but there are much better options out there.
See how you feel about them after a few fast sweepers.
Click to expand...
I really appreciate your input! And thank you for your reasoning associated. I appreciate the first hand knowledge. The only reason I was considering the welded crank is because I think I read somewhere that it was recommended by someone so I included it as a precaution.
 
grouchie83 said:
https://www.hughshandbuilt.com/product/xs650-sr500-solid-riser-bushings/

I put a set of these on and have zero regrets.

I was running drag bars and rearsets. Also have a PMA kit. Bronze swingarm bushings too.

All the stuff I ever bolted on sounds fancy, and if it made any actual difference, there's a solid chance it's because I wanted it to and so therefore perceived it to.

However! The 2 things I remember making an actual legitimate difference were replacing the tired stock rear shocks and getting a new rear tire.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your response! I had forgot to mention that I had installed the solid riser bushings on my list
 
halfmile said:
520 chain also gives more shock clearance. Those stock shocks and that 16" rear tire and wheel weighs a ton.:yikes: Just sayin. Where are you at in Kansas?
Click to expand...
I'm in Marysville. Not sure if you're familiar with the state, but North of Manhattan about and hour
 
arcticXS said:
I would argue that a modern, good quality #520 chain is more than strong enough for any XS650. Bikes with 100 hp or more can use #520. Weight savings are just a bonus, and if chains and sprockets need replacing anyway, the cost of this weight savings is in fact zero.
I would rather ask: Why use a #530 chain on a 40-65 hp motorcycle?
(The only argument for a heavier chain MIGHT be the unusually small rear sprockets on the XS, giving a slightly higher load on the chain than more common 37-43 t sprockets)
Click to expand...
The sprockets were toast so I was going to be buying some anyway and we retire the chain on my dragbike every season so we always have an abundance of 520s laying around. I figured if 520 can hold up to that bike it won't be an issue for this one.
 

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