XS project

Highpower

XS650 Enthusiast
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I am currently two weeks into this build/restoration. I got this '79 Special on May 1st (today is the 15th) and this is where I am at so far. The previous owner, who was in his middle sixties, was going to make it into a rat rod chopper, but fortunately lost interest and it sat for 12 years in the back corner of his garage. It came with a box of parts with receipts showing just under $1000 for the various bits. Basically too much to list but there was everything from a new engine gasket set to new tires (bought last year,) stainless brake lines and a new front master cylinder. I paid a grand for it with a clean title. It even had a newly recovered seat. It did run on ether, so I was pretty sure the motor was okay.

What it looked like when I got it right after washing twelve years of dust and grime off.
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Original mileage. It has great compression and looking in the cylinders with a bore scope shows typical wear for a 12K mile motor.
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There was some surface rust in the gas tank which I removed with muriatic acid. I painted the body Dark Blue Metallic over a silver base with a new set of silver emblems vs the beat up gold that was on it. The paint that came on it was fugly, a color I call tomato soup and was generally a terrible rattle can job. It had been painted without removing the tank from the bike and it showed it. I rebuilt the carbs with the kits included in the box-o-parts and installed a set of trumpet mufflers that I had originally purchased for my '68 Bonneville. A bit of elbow grease has the cases looking less corroded.
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I bought a center stand, front fender and battery and thought I was ready to go, but then I discovered the fuse box assembly was missing. WTF? Why would someone take out the fuse box? I tested all the wires and even hooked up some temp fuses to check the circuits and there is nothing wrong with the wiring. The only things that don't work with the power hooked up are the headlight and turn signals. I do have brake and tail lights.

I tracked the problem down to the dual relay unit that mounts to the right side of the battery box.
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Power goes in and nothing comes out. when I bypass the box the headlight comes on. when I bypass the other side the turn signals will light up. I found an OEM unit on Ebay that supposedly works, so I'll know if my diagnoses is correct next week when it gets here. A new OEM style fuse box should also be here next week. Other than the missing fuse box the wiring is unmolested.

I still need to change the oil (new filters were included with the extra parts) before I start it and, of course, I need to tune and sync the carbs. All-in-all I think I did okay on this one. All-in I should have about $1700 in it including title transfer, license and registration. I happended to have a 1979 Tennessee license plate so I did a YOM plate.

It is never going to be a show bike. I got it specifically to bomb around the local area and while it will gradually get nicer as time goes by, I fully intend to use it as it was intended to be used.
 
If they have no holes or tears, just clean them and put them back.

I'll do that on the next go-round. On a positive note, It is registered, insured and, after a bit a carb tuning, it runs excellent. All lights and systems work properly and I took it for a brief foray down to the Shiloh Battlefield Park and a little ride along the Tennessee River. I would have made it a longer ride, but the rain was starting up again so I boogied on home. 38+ miles with zero issues.

The only complaint I have is it is very short geared. I have ordered a 18 tooth countershaft sprocket to see if that helps. Currently it is running 17/34 gearing and a 18T sprocket will bring the ratio up to 1.88888888 to one instead of the current 2:1. If that doesn't make enough of a difference, I'll explore getting a smaller rear. As it is, it is very comfortable at 3300-3400 rpm with little vibration. I would like to be able to run along at 65-70 if possible at no more than 3800, but I'm not holding my breath that one tooth higher alone will do the trick.
 
I'll do that on the next go-round. On a positive note, It is registered, insured and, after a bit a carb tuning, it runs excellent. All lights and systems work properly and I took it for a brief foray down to the Shiloh Battlefield Park and a little ride along the Tennessee River. I would have made it a longer ride, but the rain was starting up again so I boogied on home. 38+ miles with zero issues.

The only complaint I have is it is very short geared. I have ordered a 18 tooth countershaft sprocket to see if that helps. Currently it is running 17/34 gearing and a 18T sprocket will bring the ratio up to 1.88888888 to one instead of the current 2:1. If that doesn't make enough of a difference, I'll explore getting a smaller rear. As it is, it is very comfortable at 3300-3400 rpm with little vibration. I would like to be able to run along at 65-70 if possible at no more than 3800, but I'm not holding my

You are close enough to me. Maybe a couple hours. Coldwater, MS is Memphis area.

18T sprocket is tight fit. Guard has to come off. I’m riding this bike over 40 years. 17/34 or 17/33 is best. Just tune the vibration out. It’s not that bad.
 
Yes, an 18T front sprocket is not recommended, too little clearance around it, and if you want to run an o-ring chain, it won't fit. Change the rear instead, but only slightly. You have to keep in mind that we're only dealing with about a 50 HP machine here. Gear it too high and it won't pull to redline in 5th, but more importantly, you'll kill the bike's "fun factor" - it's wonderful midrange "lunge" when you grab a big handful of throttle, and the take-off power in the lower gears. For a 16" rear wheel, I feel a 32T sprocket is ideal, for an 18" I prefer a 33T.

https://xs650direct.com/products/sprocket-rear-32t-x-530
 
You are close enough to me. Maybe a couple hours. Coldwater, MS is Memphis area.

18T sprocket is tight fit. Guard has to come off. I’m riding this bike over 40 years. 17/34 or 17/33 is best. Just tune the vibration out. It’s not that bad.
17/33 is pretty much the same as 17/34. 1.94:1 vs 2:1. I would get closer with 17/32 which would be 1.89:1 (18/34 is 1.88:1) and with the added bonus of knowing the chain will definitely be long enough.

ETA: It currently has a 16” rear tire, which was brand new on the bike when I bought it. I fully intend to get my money’s worth out of it, so whatever gear I ultimately go with, it is going to be on there for a while. I am going to try a 32 and see what I think. If I don’t like it I am not going to be out all that much.
 
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Your math is a little off. 17/32 is closer to 1.88:1, 18/34 is nearly 1.89:1. This chart reflects that, showing that 17/32 is a touch higher gearing than 18/34 is ......

SpeedGear.jpg

Like I said, I find 17/32 to be ideal for a 16" rear wheel. It will knock a few hundred RPMs off at cruising speeds but doesn't kill the take-off power in the lower gears. I tried the 32T on an 18" rear wheel and the take-off power took a significant hit, so I switched to the 33T. Now, you wouldn't think just one tooth would make much of a difference but on the 18" wheel, it's perfect. In fact, that's what Yamaha put on the European models.
 
If you want to try a 32 on the rear try it. I run a 32 on 1 of my 650s and like it just fine. It's a 18 inch tire. Others have used the 32 and have not had a problem.
 
Took a ride down to Mississippi yesterday and I am going to order a 32 for the rear first thing on Monday. IMO it’s just too busy at anything over 60mph. I also need to ditch the Special seat in favor of one from a standard. My knees are bent at an angle that turns into torture after 15 minutes to say nothing about how it seems to irritate my recently replaced hip.

Stopped by the Shiloh Battlefield on the way home to rest my knees.
IMG_1762-XL.jpg
 
Took a ride down to Mississippi yesterday and I am going to order a 32 for the rear first thing on Monday. IMO it’s just too busy at anything over 60mph. I also need to ditch the Special seat in favor of one from a standard. My knees are bent at an angle that turns into torture after 15 minutes to say nothing about how it seems to irritate my recently replaced hip.

Stopped by the Shiloh Battlefield on the way home to rest my knees.
View attachment 351302
I have this seat. It’s made for early Special. It’s lower than stock but has room to move.
https://texavina.com/1978-1979-yama...profile-cafe-racer-motorcycle-seat-sku-l7063/

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I need to sit higher than the stock special seat allows. I swear the seating position was designed for someone 5'8" or under. I have had several knee operations on both knees and I desperately need to unkink them when I ride. As it is, 15 minutes is about all I can take before the pain becomes so intense I have to stop and stretch.

I have a question. On my bike the left foot peg is nearly and inch higher than the right and it is not bent. Were there different footrest mounts over the production run of these bikes?
 
That seat looks to have been modified. Looks to have had some foam removed where the rider sits.or been used by a big guy.

Buy a 77 Standard or later. (76 or earlier are a no no,), They are a bit more padded. Add a sheepskin + an airhawk, a gell pad, or get the seat rebuilt. There was an aftermarket seat that had 2 bucket seats for long distance, ( don't have a pic), may have been a corbain. Look a big fugly buy who cares as long as your comfortable.

76 Standard.
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77 Standard
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78 Standard
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In 79 Yamaha did make a touring sear as an option. B hard to find now but never know. Only negative they restrict and movement back and forth
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If the difference is merely where the hinges and/or latch is mounted, I can work around that. I have a rivet nut set with all the appropriate metric sizes. I found a seat for $150 with a very nice cover and, if nothing else, I'm going to use the seat pan and will have the foam altered as necessary. I absolutely despise the look and seating position of every aftermarket "touring" seat I have ever sat on. After 30 years as a motorcycle mechanic, I feel I have sat in more than my share. Oddly enough for me the factory Harley seats are about the most comfortable followed by the BMW GS seat. Both of which I have put many thousands of miles on.

The seat on this XS isn't by itself uncomfortable, it's the position my knees are forced into that makes it unusable.
 
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I’m picking up what you’re laying down. This photo was taken in 2010 on a trip that covered the length of the Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive in both directions. I fold pretty tight on most bikes. It’s not good. My knees have healed a good bit since then but you have a sympathetic ear.
 
I'v done thousands ov KLM on my 83 Special. I found I had to stretch my legs. Never had to stop every 15 min to do it. That is the nature of an XS.

Raising the seat height is going to alleviate the problem, may never eliminate it. I have given you options on the seats that do raise the seat height. The year of the model that does that. Adding a sheepskin n + an air hawk or jell pad will raise it another " or more.

I have a 32" inseam. Rebuild the seat so it is thicker. You will still find your legs get tired in that position that the XS650 is designed. It will b how you alleviate the problem to work as a min to make travel comfortable. Will never eliminate.

The footpegs from 74 - 83 are all the same profile to my knowledge. If one is higher than the other then it has been damaged or maybe it is from a 70 - 73. I don't know if the 70 - 73 pegs will fit a 74-83 frame. Just a thought

I also had highway pegs on my bike that did make the long distance travel more comfortable that bought into effect the feeling of less controll in an emergency situation due to the feet being away from the controls.bi used to regularly practice how fast, or how long, I would take me to readjust position for the foot brake and gear lever for a mussle memory emergency situation.
 
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Another option is to add an " to the rear shocks. It all helps.

I have a DL650 and it has almost the exact same riding positionen although slightly more distance between pegs and seat. Still find I have to move around on the seat or stretch the legs while riding to alleviate the knee stiffness.
 
The footrest bracket doesn't look bent, the peg sits level to the ground, but that doesn't mean that it isn't. Something to deal with after I get the seat and start setting up the riding position.

The trouble is that I have had multiple operations on each knee and they don't bend very well anymore. My left knee is at full fold when sitting on the XS. It's kind of funny as my last BMW, a 2012 R1200 GSA provided few options for moving my legs, yet it never bothered me as much as this bike does. I sold that bike ten years ago and I am now in my mid seventies, so age is no doubt a factor.

However, I like to think of myself as a problem solver and I will come up with a solution. I have zero intention of taking this bike on any sort of a long trip. My intention was to have a smaller bike to cruise around on back roads with a hundred mile day max.

Back around 2009 I rode this '96 GS on a 5000 mile two week vacation without anywhere near the pain I was in after riding down to Corinth, MS (50 miles) the other day. Of course, the older I get, the better I was.
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Nowadays I take my long trips in my GMC van I built a few years ago.
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