XS1 Motor Disassembly Help

You could re-approach the idea of using JB Weld.
I had almost identical damage to one of my XS650 cases. After much cleaning and scuffing, I applied layers of the epoxy to the inside, all over the crack joint area. On top, I shaped a rather thick aluminum cover plate to cover the crack and provide stabilization. I used the epoxy to attach it.
This repair has now lasted for about 4 years of use.
Do you have some photos? Again the biggest issue is the chunk that broke off is deformed so I’m not sure how to get it to fit right
 
If we skip the welding ..What about fabricating a Sheet metal lid ( Stainless perhaps ) on top of the casing and
epoxy glue it there
Like a lid on a pan
I don't really like the idea of taking a 8500 miles Vintage bike a part

This motor only has 8500 miles on it and started and idled absolutely perfect.

Something always goes wrong ( For me Anyways ) and if that part that breaks is No longer available as can happen on other older bikes it is game over
Or very high prices for rare parts. Take it or leave it deals.
Entering the
" No bike Zone " and / or the " No money left Zone " and / or " The long waiting periods for delivery from BongoBongo Land for substandard S*hit parts"

AS for the question
The small round black thing with an arrow on it can be pulled out and there is a pin to be saved.
Loosening I used probably wrong method but a flat screwdriver in the slots the one with 8 slots
And a hammer gently tapping it around



 
retrodyne - Gary specializes in making pipes and building motors but can do some fantastic repairs.

you may be on a wait list, and it may cost you, but it’ll be good.

he may also know of a faster option.

just a thought on somewhere to look that has a lot of experience welding old bikes

or possibly Chris as Schumann motor works

or if your on Instagram there is a guy that goes by “now the welder” really into old bikes and is a certified welder and instructor, convince him it would be a cool project for class! When I was in trade school as a manual machinist we did all sorts of whacked out outside projects people brought in.
 
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That advance nut can be removed using a flat head screw driver and a hammer. Do it gently. That's how I removed mine. Reinstall opposite iof removal.
 
Do you have some photos? Again the biggest issue is the chunk that broke off is deformed so I’m not sure how to get it to fit right
It is definitely bent some, I could try bending it back and gluing it again? How could I bend it?
 

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It is definitely bent some, I could try bending it back and gluing it again? How could I bend it?
Heat it up in a oven slowly 375-400℉ and use a press or vise to gently reshape it don't be afraid to re-heat. Once flattened heat again and let cool slowly. Aluminum work hardens like a bastard and is prone to cracking, cast aluminum is even more prone to cracking.
 
Heat it up in a oven slowly 375-400℉ and use a press or vise to gently reshape it don't be afraid to re-heat. Once flattened heat again and let cool slowly. Aluminum work hardens like a bastard and is prone to cracking, cast aluminum is even more prone to cracking.
Not a bad idea, might give it a go today. I’m a college student without a proper vice but I have a workbench and C clamps.
 
Update: I was bending and filing the broken chunk with plenty of success. I had it dead on but it still didn’t fit quite right. It was then I noticed another crack in the shifter pin hole. That was the final mail in the coffin, I could glue the piece back but after however many heat cycles and the vibration of a 360 degree crank it’ll just break again and might screw something else up. I’m replacing the cases entirely now as I bought a pair from another user here on the form. Won’t be matching numbers but I don’t care that much. I could always braze the old numbers over and stamp the originals in.
 
I could always braze the old numbers over and stamp the originals in.

I think the new case is a good way to go, as for doctoring up the numbers, I think that could potentially be problematic. If I were a future buyer of your bike, seeing that would send up red flags to me. It would also make it difficult if it ever had to pass some sort of government inspection. I knew a guy that was trying to sell a bike that had its numbers messed with and he could not sell what was otherwise a very nice bike.
Keep your damaged case, and if you ever want to sell your bike, tell them what happened and offer them the damaged case as well, if they want to try and fix it, that’s up to them.
My :twocents:
 
I wouldn't worry too much about the numbers matching. These are 40+ year old bikes, there are bikes all over the place with issues like that. Unless your state requires frame and case to match it shouldn't be a problem. Besides heating the case hot enough to braze it will probably burn up seals and possibly warp things.
 
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