XS2 Rustoration Build

Now for a carb question:

Why is there a second crossover pipe between the two carbs at the bottom? The two plastic / right angled connections on the inside of the carb near the bottom.

I understand the short connection in the middle of the carbs but I do not know why the second is needed. Can they be capped off?
 
There are 2 crossovers. Larger one for chocks, smaller one for fuel. At the very bottom of the float bowl is a very small 90, it's a overflow drain, they do not tie together. Post a pic to make sure we're talking about the correct things.
 
Fittings circled in red are fuel. Some have the plastic 90 others have a strait brass fitting for the crossover.
Black circle is a vent to atmosphere, no crossover.
Blue circle is chock crossover.
Yellow is float bowl overflow, no crossover.
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Fittings circled in red are fuel. Some have the plastic 90 others have a strait brass fitting for the crossover.
Black circle is a vent to atmosphere, no crossover.
Blue circle is chock crossover.
Yellow is float bowl overflow, no crossover.
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I am talking about the ones circled in red. I know the Blue is the crossover... but why does the plastic 90 have to connect to the other carb in a crossover fashion?
 
My guess is because there is no crossover in the fuel tank. Do you have to have it, probably not. My 83 BMW has a similar setup. So it's something manufactures must think had value back then.
 
OH... I looked at several other diagrams and I think that I got it now. The one in the blue circle is the Choke crossover and the 90 degree plastic one in the red is for the fuel crossover. Does the fuel crossover have to be at a 90 degree... or can I just use a straight piece of tubing?
 
Does the fuel crossover have to be at a 90 degree... or can I just use a straight piece of tubing?

Fittings circled in red are fuel. Some have the plastic 90 others have a strait brass fitting for the crossover.
I do not know if the plastic fitting comes off. The 90s do make it slightly easier to install the carbs.
Straight piece of tubing should work as long as it doesn't leak.
The straight fittings I've seen have a bulge/flair at the ends.
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Just a couple of pics showing some slight progress while I wait for the new chain and tires to arrive. I am tired of listening to the bike without mufflers so I installed a couple of Emgo Cone Mufflers I had laying around. I kind of like the look so I just might keep them.

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I fabricated a couple of brackets giving them a very tight fit.

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Looking for some warmer weather so I can pressure wash this thing!
 
Also... I had the primary cover off and cleaned the area as well as greased the clutch mechanism. The clutch lever is still very hard so I guess my next step is to pull the clutch. After setting for over 15 years I assume that the clutch will need some love... if not replaced. Shame on me for not doing that when I changed the oil!
 
Question:

One of the studs on the rocker cover that has the pressure release mechanism is stripped. Is this stud just screwed in like most studs? Does anyone know the size or where to get one? Thanks in advance!
 
Yeah, my local Ace carries metric too. Don't remember the size, but got one that was an exact fit for my bike. Exhaust stud iirc.
 
Many hardware store bolts have thread the entire length so you can just cut a bolt to the length needed to make your stud.
 
Many hardware store bolts are fully threaded, so you can just cut a bolt to length to make a stud.
 
Yes, lever actuates decompression and starter.
I have two mufflers off an XS2. One is very good (see pic of left muffler) and the other one is bad. I don't have a pic of the right one, but it does have a small hole in it and the baffle rattles.
 

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