I didn't you did! I just followed through. Plus I'm going to keep it and ride it, I hope.!
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XS2 Survivor resurection.
- Thread starter GLJ
- Start date
Hey! How’d I miss seeing this thread before! I just ran across it. What a great score Greg, the bike looks great and such good compression! Good sleuthing on that advance rod, that would’ve had me scratching my head for a while. You sure you don’t want that big comfy butt bucket for long trips? 
We may have to change your user name to TwomanyXS2’s.
We may have to change your user name to TwomanyXS2’s.
If I was 5-7 or less it would be great. It puts me too close to the tank.
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Got the shop cleaned up and benches cleared off. Needed room to set parts when they come off it.
Started working on it today. Wanted to get the exhaust off. Have run into a snag. The muffler "nuts" don't want to move. Also have a broken clamp.
What is the best way to get the nuts off. I do not have the correct wrench to fit them. Don't think it would matter as I've tapped them with a punch and hammer and they are froze. Time, patience and rust penetrate? Add heat? O bit the bullet an slit them?
If I have to cut them not a big deal. In the last load of parts (junk) I brought home was 2 nut plus a clamp. They look to clean up just fine for a survivor.
Started working on it today. Wanted to get the exhaust off. Have run into a snag. The muffler "nuts" don't want to move. Also have a broken clamp.
What is the best way to get the nuts off. I do not have the correct wrench to fit them. Don't think it would matter as I've tapped them with a punch and hammer and they are froze. Time, patience and rust penetrate? Add heat? O bit the bullet an slit them?
If I have to cut them not a big deal. In the last load of parts (junk) I brought home was 2 nut plus a clamp. They look to clean up just fine for a survivor.
If I have extras I would split them.
(gasp) Ruin a perfectly good part. Blasphemy I say!!I'll spend a day or so on patience. Then the cutting will commence.
Wanted to hear what others have done.
No great pass along from Gary.
Finding good bikes at the right price is hard. Spending money on them is easy.
I have to admit I blew my bike budget for awhile.
Wax on, wax off.
Use the punch and hammer. Tap loose, tap tight... tap loose, tap tight. Best way I know to break up the rust.
Use the punch and hammer. Tap loose, tap tight... tap loose, tap tight. Best way I know to break up the rust.
I'll give it time since (I hope) time is on my side. I've beat around on the nut and tried to knock it both directions several times. In a day or so I'll probably try a propane torch plus more beatings.
Just like at a place I used to work at " The beatings will continue until things improve".
Right, that advance governor isn't OEM, it's a Chiwanese repop from Mike's XS. Weights and rust are the tells, they sure didn't spend more than they had to on material. Congrats on a great find--that scoot is in the right hands.
I know. But I have 2 I already paid for that would have the correct patina on them.
I'm also on a diet. Would rather burn up some fat (parts) than buy more.
Not even Mikes sell pre-patinaed parts.
I'll give them 3 or 4 days of progressively harder taps, plus some heat. Then I'll go nuclear on them.
I can start on other things.
If I was in a hurry they would have been off by now.
I can start on other things.
If I was in a hurry they would have been off by now.
I'm not an engineer, but from what I've read, it is the vibration of the interfacing metal surfaces and rust particles that is the effective part of a whack, rather than the amount of exerted force in the direction of removal. And this vibration allows for increasing amounts of the penetrant to flow inwards.
I think an air chisel with a blunt/flat hammer bit set at a very high rpm (a "humming" vibration) would be most effective.
I think an air chisel with a blunt/flat hammer bit set at a very high rpm (a "humming" vibration) would be most effective.
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