Focusinprogress
XS650 Addict
Hello folks, I've been kind of a lurker here for a while and have silently been working on this 1979 xs650 I bought a while back for $500. It was half disassembled but the previous owner was a good neighbor of a close friend of mine and by friend told me the bike was only apart about a year and was regularly ridden prior to that, so I scooped it up.
here she is after I re-assembled her to see how she ran/rode
I bought a universal hard-tail kit on ebay that was basically a couple pre-bent tubes and some axle plates (I later regret this due to the modifications required for the XS, should have done a TCbros)
started tearing the bike back down to a roller besides the motor being in there
used the motorcycle jack to play with ride height with the triple trees loose and no rear shocks until I figured out roughly where I wanted the rear axle to sit.
Then I eyeballed the right side tube and tacked the plate up, and I liked the look of it so I made a matching left side.....
Then I picked where I wanted to cut and went at the beast with a grinder and sawzall
Then I bolted the wheel into the axle plates and sleeved the tubes so they would sit in the right spot with the remaining part of the stock frame's lower tubes, and then set the top tubes in place to mock it up
Decided it's perfect enough so I marked the location of the top tubes and welded the two sides of the hardtail all up and then called it a night.
Next I sleeved and pinned the tubes running from the axle plates into the stock frame's downtube and put a couple tack welds on them to put them in place, sleeved (haven't pinned yet but will) the lower tubes to the stock frame and put two stitch welds there, then mocked up front fender on the rear (it's too narrow though) to set a brace/crosstube that will triple as lateral support, a mount for the fender, and a mount for springs to a solo seat ( I tacked this tube in place as well).
Now, before I throw up the next pic I'll explain.....
at this point I'm heavily conssidering re-using the stock tank for this project for a few reasons.
I've spent some time over the last several days looking at XS bobbers using sporster peanut tanks and noticed a few things I really hate that are basically apparent across ANY XS bobber....
-The tank's bottom doesn't sit level
-The deepest tunnel version (closest to level they can get) is a stock 2.1gal tank, which is fucking useless. i'd rather not refuel every 80 miles.
-there is ony one petcock, and its dead in the middle on the right side. This is a problem because the tank is not level, so not only is in in a really shitty place thanks to the top engine mounts and the head placement, but this also means you'll "run out" of fuel sooner with gas left in the bottom you'll never get to use. (shrinks the mileage per tank even more on the 2.1gal version)
So basically, that means if I want the sportster shape tank, I have to buy an unfinished shell of one and make my own tunnel to attempt to get it level, then weld the tunnel in and weld bungs in for petcocks. This would easily run me something in the $300 neck of the woods. F**K THAT.
A replica 3.1 gal sportster tank is about $150-175 after purchase, shipping, gas cap, and petcock(which still needs to be split for two carbs and hope it flows enough for both)
This tank is free, sits level, and has the petcocks where I need them. only issues are that the petcocks leak ($40 a piece) and the rear mount on it now will sit where my nutsack should be so I'll have to address that somehow (not worried about this)
I could probably come up with a cheaper solution to replacing with OEM petcocks and be able to use this tank for about $50 or less.
the only other tank I like is the "wassell", but that's also only 2gal again....I can't find an "oversized" wassell.....
as you can see this tank actually sits level, and it happens to have dual petcocks at the rear of the tank so it would be the perfect setup.....if I could find one around 3 gal I'd be IN.
ordered some pieces to keep moving forward.
Bar-End turn signals....hopefully these are viewable enough from behind while I'm on the bike so that I don't have to run rear signals
Solo seat with springs:
Might re-upholster the seat in a brown or tan leather instead though...
cut the remainder of the original subframe off
tank back on for mockup
My buddy Checko called me up and convinced me that I should let him lend a hand...
made up plates to tie in the lower crossbar that "tee's" off the bottom of the backbone tube
then chopped the part of the rear tank mounting tab, and made a new mount that uses a rubber isolater and a wing nut
ordered another $100 worth of parts lol
-6" wide plain-jane basic fender for rear wheel (been using a spare front fender for the mockup but it's way too narrow and widening it would be a PITA)
-(2) 45* silicone couplers, and (2) Cone mini-filters to attach to the carbs while still being able to clear the new frame tubes
-set of drag bars
So far, this thing has been really fun to build.....the cost-fun ratio I'm getting on this build far exceeds that of my Honda CB550 cafe build (mostly because of how much money I've spent collectively on that one)
$500 for the bike, $115 for the universal hardtail kit, $35 for the sidemount tail light, $20 for the bar-end signals, $60 for the seat with springs and pivot mount, $50 for the fender, $30 for the bars, $20 for filters and couplers...... Thanks to re-using the stock tank I'll be under $1000 in parts/investment into this build unless I decide to buy whitewall tires (which I consider a maintenance item anyways and will most likely do next season anyhow)
Customizing bikes is SOOOOO much nicer than customizing cars. (my other hobby)
Got lots done today.....
broke the bike down to a bare frame to finish up all the welding
Made a brake-stay for the rear caliper, and welded on the axle adjuster plates
(wow, these pics didn't look nearly at terrible in quality on my phone......I appologize)
fender and drag bars came in, so checko and our other buddy slaw decided to come by and lend a hand.
I kinda forgot to take pictures when I started working on it, so these are after I already trimmed the fender short and decided how I was going to mount it.....
I mocked up some riser extensions to get the bars to clear the forks now that they're pushed through the top trees
here she is after I re-assembled her to see how she ran/rode
I bought a universal hard-tail kit on ebay that was basically a couple pre-bent tubes and some axle plates (I later regret this due to the modifications required for the XS, should have done a TCbros)
started tearing the bike back down to a roller besides the motor being in there
used the motorcycle jack to play with ride height with the triple trees loose and no rear shocks until I figured out roughly where I wanted the rear axle to sit.
Then I eyeballed the right side tube and tacked the plate up, and I liked the look of it so I made a matching left side.....
Then I picked where I wanted to cut and went at the beast with a grinder and sawzall
Then I bolted the wheel into the axle plates and sleeved the tubes so they would sit in the right spot with the remaining part of the stock frame's lower tubes, and then set the top tubes in place to mock it up
Decided it's perfect enough so I marked the location of the top tubes and welded the two sides of the hardtail all up and then called it a night.
Next I sleeved and pinned the tubes running from the axle plates into the stock frame's downtube and put a couple tack welds on them to put them in place, sleeved (haven't pinned yet but will) the lower tubes to the stock frame and put two stitch welds there, then mocked up front fender on the rear (it's too narrow though) to set a brace/crosstube that will triple as lateral support, a mount for the fender, and a mount for springs to a solo seat ( I tacked this tube in place as well).
Now, before I throw up the next pic I'll explain.....
at this point I'm heavily conssidering re-using the stock tank for this project for a few reasons.
I've spent some time over the last several days looking at XS bobbers using sporster peanut tanks and noticed a few things I really hate that are basically apparent across ANY XS bobber....
-The tank's bottom doesn't sit level
-The deepest tunnel version (closest to level they can get) is a stock 2.1gal tank, which is fucking useless. i'd rather not refuel every 80 miles.
-there is ony one petcock, and its dead in the middle on the right side. This is a problem because the tank is not level, so not only is in in a really shitty place thanks to the top engine mounts and the head placement, but this also means you'll "run out" of fuel sooner with gas left in the bottom you'll never get to use. (shrinks the mileage per tank even more on the 2.1gal version)
So basically, that means if I want the sportster shape tank, I have to buy an unfinished shell of one and make my own tunnel to attempt to get it level, then weld the tunnel in and weld bungs in for petcocks. This would easily run me something in the $300 neck of the woods. F**K THAT.
A replica 3.1 gal sportster tank is about $150-175 after purchase, shipping, gas cap, and petcock(which still needs to be split for two carbs and hope it flows enough for both)
This tank is free, sits level, and has the petcocks where I need them. only issues are that the petcocks leak ($40 a piece) and the rear mount on it now will sit where my nutsack should be so I'll have to address that somehow (not worried about this)
I could probably come up with a cheaper solution to replacing with OEM petcocks and be able to use this tank for about $50 or less.
the only other tank I like is the "wassell", but that's also only 2gal again....I can't find an "oversized" wassell.....
as you can see this tank actually sits level, and it happens to have dual petcocks at the rear of the tank so it would be the perfect setup.....if I could find one around 3 gal I'd be IN.
ordered some pieces to keep moving forward.
Bar-End turn signals....hopefully these are viewable enough from behind while I'm on the bike so that I don't have to run rear signals
Solo seat with springs:
Might re-upholster the seat in a brown or tan leather instead though...
cut the remainder of the original subframe off
tank back on for mockup
My buddy Checko called me up and convinced me that I should let him lend a hand...
made up plates to tie in the lower crossbar that "tee's" off the bottom of the backbone tube
then chopped the part of the rear tank mounting tab, and made a new mount that uses a rubber isolater and a wing nut
ordered another $100 worth of parts lol
-6" wide plain-jane basic fender for rear wheel (been using a spare front fender for the mockup but it's way too narrow and widening it would be a PITA)
-(2) 45* silicone couplers, and (2) Cone mini-filters to attach to the carbs while still being able to clear the new frame tubes
-set of drag bars
So far, this thing has been really fun to build.....the cost-fun ratio I'm getting on this build far exceeds that of my Honda CB550 cafe build (mostly because of how much money I've spent collectively on that one)
$500 for the bike, $115 for the universal hardtail kit, $35 for the sidemount tail light, $20 for the bar-end signals, $60 for the seat with springs and pivot mount, $50 for the fender, $30 for the bars, $20 for filters and couplers...... Thanks to re-using the stock tank I'll be under $1000 in parts/investment into this build unless I decide to buy whitewall tires (which I consider a maintenance item anyways and will most likely do next season anyhow)
Customizing bikes is SOOOOO much nicer than customizing cars. (my other hobby)
Got lots done today.....
broke the bike down to a bare frame to finish up all the welding
Made a brake-stay for the rear caliper, and welded on the axle adjuster plates
(wow, these pics didn't look nearly at terrible in quality on my phone......I appologize)
fender and drag bars came in, so checko and our other buddy slaw decided to come by and lend a hand.
I kinda forgot to take pictures when I started working on it, so these are after I already trimmed the fender short and decided how I was going to mount it.....
I mocked up some riser extensions to get the bars to clear the forks now that they're pushed through the top trees