XS650 Mikuni VM34 Carb Kit - Which one to buy?

[peterg]

Thanks Grizld. I will get a spare plug and make the fuel level gauge. I have a bag full of hose barbs I got when to add barbs to my manifolds for syncing with a manometer.

I couldn't find a dimensioned cross section of the float bowl to calculate where the fuel level in the tube should be compared to the exterior of the bowl. Is there a determined range or is this level gauge just to see if the level is completely out of whack or not?

Yes, my meter is cheap!

 

[grizld1]

Fuel level should be at the edge of the carb body flange +/- 1 mm. with carb sitting level.

 

[Gator xs2]

I bought a stock set of beautiful rebuilt carbs for my 72 a while back from Spiderworks. Anybody done any business with them?

 

[650Skull]

Plenty of information in manuals that shows this procedure.............make sure the tube size is correct

https://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/tag/manual/

 

[grizld1]

To clarify, VM34 float level is not adjusted by bending the tang. It is adjusted by bending the arms of the actuator.

 

[650Skull]

Correction...........didn't read the thread heading properly........VM's not CV's........

 

[peterg]

Thanks Skull and Grizld.

 

[grizld1]

Tubing size signifies only because a very small tube will give a false reading due to fluid being drawn too high by capillaric action. Anything big enough to fit your synch barbs will work fine, Peter.

 

[peterg]

It's taken me a while to take fuel height measurements. Bought an extra float bowl plug and tubing and made the fuel level gauge. Since my bike doesn't have a centre stand I "had to" buy a wheel chock. Fuel level is 10 -11 mm below the carb body lip. Is this correct for VM 34 carbs? I could only find cross section without measurmen

 

[grizld1]

No, you're about 9 mm. below the minimum setting. One more time, fuel level shouldn't be more than 1 mm. below the edge of the carb body. Note the curvature of the fuel surface: this is the meniscus. Read the level as the bottom of the meniscus. Now one more time: when you adjust the fuel level in your VM34s, bend the blades, not the tang!

 

[peterg]

Thanks. I saw your note about being +/- 1 mm at the carb body. I was hoping that was for bs34s. Off to reset the blades.

 

[peterg]

I can't remember if I had adjusted the float arms before but if I did I probably adjusted the tang. If I had I will reset it. Should the tang be level with the surrounding crossbar (like in the picture below) or at an angle to it? Seems to me that it should be at an angle. Otherwise why bother with the tang?

I take it that the arms should be bent at the cross bar to obtain the 22 - 24 mm distance from the carb body?

 

[grizld1]

You can't tell anything about the angle of the tang from that picture; the end should point up toward the float needle. With the upper (needle contact) surface facing up, the end of the tang should be .025" higher than the flat surface of the actuator. Use a feeler gauge, and measure at the very end of the tang. When you measure the arms for float height, take your measurements at the point where the horizontal pin on the floats makes contact. To adjust, just move the arm at the end.

 

[peterg]

Grizld. Thanks for all your help. I’ve reset the tang to flat surface of actuator and arms to cab body dimensions. None were too far off - fractions of a millimetre at worst. Played with the needle settings. The e rings are at position 2 with washers (position 2 1/2?). Mains are at 180. Just s bit of tweaking with the mains should set things right. Also cleaned the air filters which made a big difference. Should be close to perfection in time to store the bike for the winter.

 

[grizld1]

You'll save time and avoid frustration if you set up a remote fuel source, inspect fuel level on the bench, and correct as needed before installation. Hope you get some good riding in, there's still time even in Canada unless you're way north!