XS650 Top End Buildup

SteveP

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Sorry about the quality of the picture. The pins are plain and the ends are too. As far as my old eyes can tell. I had expected a stepped pin to positively locate the plate.

I've removed the link from the chain but still can't get the pins into the holes šŸ˜ž.

Maybe I'll contact Heiden, who supplied it. They seem very well informed, and helpful

I was hoping to get the engine back in the frame this weekend.
 

5twins

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The chain breaker/riveter tool many of us use comes with press plates to press the master link plate on. You may need that .....

Cam Chain Rivet Tool2.jpg


If you don't have this tool, I highly recommend getting one. You can find them all over eBay for less than $20 ......

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334851509778?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20201210111314&meid=1476004c55a9474aa01faf3dbba07d4f&pid=101195&rk=1&rkt=12&sd=172816918287&itm=334851509778&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=4429486&algv=SimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAuto&brand=Unbranded&_trksid=p4429486.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum:3348515097781476004c55a9474aa01faf3dbba07d4f|enc:AQAIAAABcObhgc4Nk8%2BdtAwOww4FKLaj%2FQ5qqgDlQCuqZA43WcPFUWDERCUugbbOk7XQv0JXlBfqCg2xKF3WcPghxGMFw2oSlXvfExEaMYr7I7LmrHcP6czY1wIMt0ORyKiCWt95xldincyyBx3g%2BNDW%2B%2FhWUgTaBhK6xAm%2BJIbCOMehu%2BdwWyi%2FrcKpu1eqn1ocNftD3J71s%2BOWIXNo5bv7EeqvOQae6PmNEKLhQ5eyNoXCDoAryZVHrjoH5NE5MPSoDSOD4YxaCPbDjV6uadADL5P9t%2FK2%2FzM3f%2F%2FygT8XK7Sh7SLejuTKgvPZJtIBVNA%2Bwl8KajTd%2F6Q0TnWC%2BE0OS65r%2FbQnNDoKRsmgfotOYTCbZiwV2OHbkM2h82TCkuVgQEN%2F7rYe58vpnRIxmJ52kdG6u1Hc5IW9luuFwEn7yz2d6zYmM%2F%2BkYwTXAZe99sjy9LUxfDkNwYs7p%2F1SVlxTS42By4FJWdLRXvtO1lWIyNXfnz%2Bt|ampid:pL_CLK|clp:4429486

The quality of the breaking and riveting pins may not be the greatest but you can "upgrade" the tool by buying replacement pins from Motion Pro .....

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0062

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0061

But honestly, I rarely use this tool for breaking the chain, only riveting the master link. If you grind the heads off the pins on the chain, the side plate usually easily pries off, so no need for the breaker .....

Ground Link-Small.jpg


And yes, the ends of the master link pins usually are stepped .....

CamChainLink.jpg

This only allows the side plate to go on so far, so the link width isn't too tight.
 

Niels B

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You may also gain a little wiggle room if you tighten down the top a bit - I use to add a couple of sleeves on the four studs that are closest to the cam chain and span it down evenly by use of a torque wrench ( donā€™t tighten it too much as you do not want to compress the gasket fully until you are ready for the actual top cover.
 

SteveP

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Thanks again for all the great help. I'm in the UK, so I was in bed.
I've removed the link from the chain and I can't get either of the pins into either hole. So I don't think that the problem is due to misalignment.
Measured with my digital caliper. The holes are 2.55mm diameter and the pins are 2.60mm.
I did attempt to use a g clamp that looks very similar to the tool pictured to press the plate on. It felt like I was going to damage something.
Interestingly the chain is DID. But the master link doesn't look like the one pictured.
I've emailed Heiden tuning to see if they can help.
 

SteveP

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I've been doing some research on rivet pins.
Apparently there are two types; hollow head, which also have a step to locate the plate. And solid pin which don't have a step.
DID also make a heavy duty riveting tool. Which I assume is required for the solid pin. Maybe it's more suitable for use on the bench. Rather than whilst fiddling around on the cam sprocket.
Interestingly Heiden tuning seem to sell the hollow point and Yambits the solid one.
It's worth bearing in mind if you buy the Heiden kit. Maybe buy a spare rivet link as well.
I've found a hollow point that's suitable for the chain on eBay
 

nighthog

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Hi Steve, Yambits sell both. The DID link has solid pins and the Morse one hollow. They are out of stock of the Morse chain right now though. Can't speak for Heiden's stock but they are really good people and I've had lots of bit from them over the last few years.
I'll be doing a top end refresh probably next winter and I'm going to go for the Morse chain + link, not least in the hope that my chain tool is better suited to hollow-point links.

I have two chain tools - one for 530 chains (bought that when I replaced the chain on my Ducati) and the other for bicycle chains, I hope one will fit the bill!

Good luck -
Cliff
 

SteveP

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Hi Cliff. Thanks for that. Unfortunately I've already got the DID chain. I don't think you can use a morse link with a DID chain.
I've rebuilt the full engine using mainly Heiden, with some Yambits parts. I would recommend both companies.
I had intended to rivet the chain using a centre punch as detailed in the Hans Pahl book.
I've ordered a Ā£5 hollow point DID rivet link from eBay. So just waiting for it to arrive.
I don't think the twisted copper wire I'm currently using will last too long šŸ¤­
 

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