XS6502F / XS650SK mash up?

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Would it be better welded to the coil plate?
Decisions, decisions.
 
Looks nice but how about theft protection ?
The pins looks open at the back of the lock ( Second Picture from top ) and the " Bad People " in this world
Perhaps can hot wire it there faster than use the Key
Apologize if it is something I have missed
This all depends upon how smart the thief is. Just unscrew the brass bezel and it’s in your hand. If I plan on leaving it unattended, I’ll have to have secondary protection. Maybe a hidden interlock switch, but certainly a brake disc lock or a cable.
 
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The second position under the tank has the risk for petrol flowing down on it.
With in worst case fire Hazard
The side position is nicer in my view ...I like the brass Aesthetically The Golden Look
I would consider some simple shielding of the pins .at the back a pipe or so
 
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Do any of you have experience that says this is a mistake? Alternative below .View attachment 202971
I've seen several instances over the years of side-mounted keys going missing on the road. Vibration is not a friend of such arrangements and components.
Better to have it where nearly every maker puts it - vertically mounted, so it stays put even when worn.
Or... always have a retaining lanyard on the key and make sure to clip it in place every run.
 
The surest way to neutralize the bike is to take out the Main fuse. ............Before i got my 83 a PO must have used a screwdriver to break the tumblers. I didn't have to use a key, anything that fitted in to he ignition slot could turn it on..............I just took out the main fuse when i parked in public.

Why not put a main fuse where it is easy to get at, (so the seat doesn't have to be raised), but still out of the way, if as a security thing
 
The surest way to neutralize the bike is to take out the Main fuse. ............Before i got my 83 a PO must have used a screwdriver to break the tumblers. I didn't have to use a key, anything that fitted in to he ignition slot could turn it on..............I just took out the main fuse when i parked in public.

Why not put a main fuse where it is easy to get at, (so the seat doesn't have to be raised), but still out of the way, if as a security thing

My wife had a Ford RS1600 Escort; quite desirable back in the day (even more so now). It was stolen almost every weekend (Shit Ford locks). I deleted the door locks and installed a switch in the glove box to isolate the HT supply when parked up; worked a treat. But the skally-wags still broke in, couldn't start it and tried to push and jump start it for half a mile before the Police stopped them in a sweaty heap down the road. Bastards were taken to court, given a slap on the wrist; and tried to nick it again shortly after to the same result....Idiots!
 
Those escorts were great cars.

I had a 1970 MK1 escort that had a 1600GT Cortina running gear installed in it. Loved that car but alcohol and fast cars don't mix well with me.

Had extractors and a twin choke webber carb. Sedate driving around on the first choke but drive on the second and it would lay rubber and out drive most cars in twisties.
Copright m1,,, Auto levels Cleaned up 1 crop 2.jpg
 
I had a 1970 MK1 escort that had a 1600GT Cortina running gear installed in it. Loved that car but alcohol and fast cars don't mix well with me.
I had a Cortina GT when I was stationed in England. Lovely little hot rod. Lost it for the same reason. :rolleyes:
 
I had ideas about accomplishing a lot in the garage yesterday. I started with removing the swingarm. That's also where I ended. That took a lot of hours with a five pound sledge hammer. It wore me out. I tried to remove the nylon swingarm bushings with a blind hole slide hammer puller. They won't budge! :mad: I guess this means I have the tedious job of using a hack saw blade.

My other bike has worn out the bronze bushings. I may just turn those over to a professional rather than have another lengthy ordeal. I really don't have a proper shop.
 
I tried to remove the nylon swingarm bushings with a blind hole slide hammer puller. They won't budge! :mad:
Play a propane torch across the tube holding the bushings as you use the slide hammer? I know from welding on a swingarm the nylon is the very high temp variety, so it's doubtful they'll melt. I've welded within an inch of 'em without any apparent affect.
 
I've always just been able to drive them out with a length of pipe inserted from the other end bearing against the inner lip of the bushing and a BFH. But, I'm good with a hammer, lol. Don't laugh, effectively using a hammer and getting the most effect out of it is a real skill that many don't have. I routinely drive new bushings and bearing in using a hammer as well, no problem.
 
Don't laugh, effectively using a hammer and getting the most effect out of it is a real skill that many don't have.
Yes, and thank you. This is something I understand completely. I've seen many who have no clue how to use a hammer. What I'm lacking is the proper drift. I also don't live very convenient to things or like minded people. I'll get the plastic bushings out. The bronze in the other bike, I may farm out because it's much more expedient. I have to weigh the money vs. time equation.
 
Short comment on the hammer usage
When I worked with sheet metal at building sites I had the same hammer in the hand for many hours for many years + 3 years
One got good at using it .. Sometimes for the fun of it while walking I used to juggle with it throwing it up the handle spinning .
And with sheet metal it can be important that the hammer head surface hit exactly flat on the surface if not there will be marks
om the edgers where it touched harder.
Still 40 years later I am much better with that hammer than any other even if I don't use it much nowadays.
The juggling works and the flat hitting works fairly good but not as good as then
We used strips of thin metal from a roll to hang up ventilation ducts.
When hanging it on wooden beams ..In those days if you had a nail and hitted the nail exactly at the right angle you could use the nail for the hole
Otherwise you needed to drill the hole.
In those days 10 % of the cases the nail got bent and another was used . Mostly standing on a ladder doing it.
Today it is more like 90 % failure standing on the ground
So I drill
There was the issue of what handle .Some refused anything else than wood. I had steel shaft ( Hollow ) others have Fiberglass nowadays
Some hammers are better . It may sound strange. But is so And it is a skill that can be mastered better or worse.
With sheet metal fingers are used more ..than for ex Carpenter nails that benefits from a longer handle heavier.Hammer

When I had problems with the bushings I used force and many hours . So it can be a good idea to outsource it
to a proper shop.
 
Marty, you can pull those bushings with the blind hole puller even if the slide hammer won't move them. Remove the end piece from the shaft, stack up spacers, and draw the bushing by screwing down the end piece and drawing the bushing into a hollow spacer. For spacers I use a piece of galvanized pipe, 1/2" drive sockets, and washers.
 
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