XS850 project bike?

[Biker18]

Hi everyone new to this forum, I need help allot of help I just bought this xs850 triple for very cheap. towed it home, and got a battery for it the next day, it was missing a fuse as well the main one I think, I drained the fuel and put new fuel in, and new sparkplugs, the bike was running great till it wasn't, the bike was running, I was driving it and kind of missed the gear didn't downshift on time on a hill and it died on me, I then tried to start the bike up but got nothing, even the first time I tried when i got the battery I still had to jump it with a car to get it to start. when the bike died on me i kept trying to start it with the electric start but it just wouldn't spin fast enough, and the battery died, I had my friend come with his car to jump it and still nothing its spinning a bit faster but not fast enough. he then used the kickstart first time and got it running, the first time I had it running it was good, its straight piped from the pervious owner so it does shoot flames at certain times. anyways couple days later I was driving it and was at my friends house, i parked the bike, and when i go back to start it it doesn't work, lights work horn is loud, but when I tried to crank it the lights get dimmer, i try the horn again, and its barely working battery drained, i was so mad like was already my 5th time, then trying to jump it it still wont work, then i saw the main fuse was blown so i change that and put new one, and leave the battery to charge up, I then take apart the carbs thinking they might be stuck, they were fine, left the battery over night to charge next day, I try it and keep it trying still nothing, the battery drained again, but this time the main fuse i just installed was sooo hot like if i were to charge it and try again for couple cranks it would blow, I then changed it out the fuse for a bolt, and kept trying, my friends brother came home and he uses the kick start, didn't work for the first 4 times, after like a 10mins break, try again and it fires up its running but the idle is not good at all its jumpy when I put it gear and go slow the bike is about to die I have to like speed it and keep the rpms high for it not to die on me why back even on red lights, in gear just revving it, if the idle fell it would start to die. anyways i took it home right when it started, and left it in my driveway not coverd, after bring everything back from my friends house and all i was gonna start it again and it died wont start the bolt is still there its not hot like the fuse, its just not starting it spins but not as fast as it should. I gave up threw everything in my garage and left the bike out side in the rain for like a month

I met someone that was working on bikes, and they told me first off check the sparkplugs and if the pistons are seized or not for being the rain so much, I went home took out the sparkplugs they were black, but thats just because it backfires, spits flame, I think, once they were out I jumped my car to the bike and tried to crank it. it was spinning so much faster as if it would start if there was spark. I still have the bolt as the fuse. I tried to call the other person up I cant get a hold of him anymore like cant find him and his number is just not going through which is odd because I talked to him a while back to ask what he had told me to try. anyways I was just playing around seeing what could be wrong, and I install the sparkplugs back, I try to crank it and its the same thing, i read the voltage with the car hooked up to the bike with no battery, it shows 14V right as I crank it using the electric start, the battery drops to 8V, now I get how my bike battery kept dying so fast when I start it. since the person got me to check things out on the bike I am looking to now get it running, I was just gonna let it sit and scrap it but now since I am testing things might as well make it work like new.

Also the person I got the bike from he has already gotten the work done, like chain timing oil, all the internal engine work done so nothings wrong with that i dont think since it was working fine for couple days

 

[Biker18]

hey guys any ideas on what I can test for to see what the issue is?

 

[Signal]

The fuse blowing and a flat battery sounds like your charging system could be the problem.

Take the bolt out of the fuse holder before your bike catches fire and burns the shed down, this has happened in my town.

Get hold of a workshop manual (they are on line) and start checking through the charging circuit. There are 2 wires that go to the alternator field that run along the bottom tube of the bike, these are vulnerable to damage an do break.

Please break up your posts into smaller paragraphs, very few people are will persevere reading thoroughly through your first post, I didn't.

 

[Biker18]

The fuse blowing and a flat battery sounds like your charging system could be the problem.

Take the bolt out of the fuse holder before your bike catches fire and burns the shed down, this has happened in my town.

Get hold of a workshop manual (they are on line) and start checking through the charging circuit. There are 2 wires that go to the alternator field that run along the bottom tube of the bike, these are vulnerable to damage an do break.

Please break up your posts into smaller paragraphs, very few people are will persevere reading thoroughly through your first post, I didn't.

okay, for sure thanks
update I was looking near the battery area and the starter relay or whatever had a split like wire wasn't connected like it should be, so I just fixed that up
and now with the battery installed the voltage shows 12V and when cranking it shows ~11-10V which ig is normal I do now know why the bike is draining the battery its because when I have the key out and its off the back break lights are still on.

 

[Biker18]

oh yeah also, I was testing for spark and there doesn't seem to be any from the coils the plugs are new, the issue i think is the ngk cap for the wire is very loose likes its basically broken, I have tried to screw it back into the wire but it doesn't work, planning to get a new one or is there another way?

 

[Signal]

Cut about 10mm off the plug end of the HT lead, you should be in fresh material for the screw to cut into.
Test the lead for continuity.
The bike is 40 plus years old you will have your hands full getting it reliable without some new components, but don't just go buying parts, test the old parts replace if needed.

All the wiring connectors are probably dodgey,switches flogged out, loose fuse holders, rough wiring fix ups by previous owners. This is the reality of old bikes.

 

[Biker18]

Cut about 10mm off the plug end of the HT lead, you should be in fresh material for the screw to cut into.
Test the lead for continuity.
The bike is 40 plus years old you will have your hands full getting it reliable without some new components, but don't just go buying parts, test the old parts replace if needed.

All the wiring connectors are probably dodgey,switches flogged out, loose fuse holders, rough wiring fix ups by previous owners. This is the reality of old bikes.

okay for sure I will try that out, lol surprisingly, its not in too bad of a condition, yeah some issues with wiring but its still in decent shape. anyways I will try that out for the sparkplugs, also would you know how to adjust the carbs on it because when it is running its not running smooth like the idle of it, we can get back to that later after it starts working, I am getting ahead of myself lol

 

[Signal]

I have no experience with the carbs. I think your first job should be to find the battery drain, and the reason for the blowing fuse.
Post a photo people on here like photos.

 

[Biker18]

I have no experience with the carbs. I think your first job should be to find the battery drain, and the reason for the blowing fuse.
Post a photo people on here like photos.

ok for sure, I will post photos and videos tomorrow, I am right now trying to find why the back brake light stays on with the ignition off, and only turns off when there is no fuse the main fuse. maybe you could be me track down the things I should be checking this is the diagram I am following
https://www.xs650.com/attachments/1684105172195-png.242871/

 

[Signal]

Right lets give this a go then:
Are you sure it is the brake light that is on and not the tail light (that is used as a park light) . The park/tail light burns when the main switch is in the park position, the motor is off and the key can be removed.
The key switch has 3 positions off, run and park. It could be as simple as the switch being in Park.

The brake light should not have power on it with the key switch in the OFF and Park positions
Try disconnecting the Blue wires at the tail light. If the lamp still burns it is a Brake light circuit problem ( Yellow wires)

To help with reading wiring diagrams I get an A2 size print of the schematic, and sometimes colour in the lines with pencils.

Have go and report back.

 

[Biker18]

Right lets give this a go then:
Are you sure it is the brake light that is on and not the tail light (that is used as a park light) . The park/tail light burns when the main switch is in the park position, the motor is off and the key can be removed.
The key switch has 3 positions off, run and park. It could be as simple as the switch being in Park.

The brake light should not have power on it with the key switch in the OFF and Park positions
Try disconnecting the Blue wires at the tail light. If the lamp still burns it is a Brake light circuit problem ( Yellow wires)

To help with reading wiring diagrams I get an A2 size print of the schematic, and sometimes colour in the lines with pencils.

Have go and report back.

okay I did do something to get it to turn off let me send you a video right now

 

[Biker18]

Right lets give this a go then:
Are you sure it is the brake light that is on and not the tail light (that is used as a park light) . The park/tail light burns when the main switch is in the park position, the motor is off and the key can be removed.
The key switch has 3 positions off, run and park. It could be as simple as the switch being in Park.

The brake light should not have power on it with the key switch in the OFF and Park positions
Try disconnecting the Blue wires at the tail light. If the lamp still burns it is a Brake light circuit problem ( Yellow wires)

To help with reading wiring diagrams I get an A2 size print of the schematic, and sometimes colour in the lines with pencils.

Have go and report back.

Update, so making the video I saw there was a loose connection like you said to the wirings not sure but now it's fine key off light turns off but issue that still happens is that when I apply the front brakes the back light don't light up, but when I use the rear breaks then the light shines more telling drivers I am about to stop

 

[Biker18]

Right lets give this a go then:
Are you sure it is the brake light that is on and not the tail light (that is used as a park light) . The park/tail light burns when the main switch is in the park position, the motor is off and the key can be removed.
The key switch has 3 positions off, run and park. It could be as simple as the switch being in Park.

The brake light should not have power on it with the key switch in the OFF and Park positions
Try disconnecting the Blue wires at the tail light. If the lamp still burns it is a Brake light circuit problem ( Yellow wires)

To help with reading wiring diagrams I get an A2 size print of the schematic, and sometimes colour in the lines with pencils.

Have go and report back.

So i made a video with the issues I am having it's abit long but it covers basically everything, I didn't edit the video or anything it's raw sorry for messing up so much lol I don't really make videos like these

 

[Signal]

Havent watched your video yet. Will do later. You are ahead of me wouldnt know how to make and post a video.
From your test the front brake switch part of the circuit is not complete.

Bridge the wires that go to the front brake switch, they are in the headlight shell and are Brown and Green/Yellow. Separate the bullet connectors and bridge the switch out. If the Brake light burns the problem is either the front brake switch or the wiring to it.

 

[Signal]

Watched the video,your carbs need work. Stripping and cleaning would be the minimum. Probably new seals if they are leaking. Your fuel tap could also be leaking a known fault with the vacuum taps.
They are CV carbs not like 2 stroke carbs.
Look in the Tech section here for carb info. I have nothing more to offer on the carbs
It is sparking at the plugs, the fault you describe is probably dirty plugs. Your weak spark is due to low voltage, either low battery or dirty terminals or both.
Yamaha coils are not the greatest.
I think the best way for you to lower bike is take foam out of the seat.

 

[Biker18]

Watched the video,your carbs need work. Stripping and cleaning would be the minimum. Probably new seals if they are leaking. Your fuel tap could also be leaking a known fault with the vacuum taps.
They are CV carbs not like 2 stroke carbs.
Look in the Tech section here for carb info. I have nothing more to offer on the carbs
It is sparking at the plugs, the fault you describe is probably dirty plugs. Your weak spark is due to low voltage, either low battery or dirty terminals or both.
Yamaha coils are not the greatest.
I think the best way for you to lower bike is take foam out of the seat.

Okay thanks for the help really appreciate, also the owner before made this into non vacuum fuel line, and for the carbs these are 300 used why the heck are they so expensive damm