Yam_Tech314's official build thread

[5twins]

If original, which yours probably is, you will find the MC size stamped somewhere on the body, in your case most likely a "14". An aftermarket rebuild kit would set you back $20 to $30 (don't even ask about an O.E.M. one, lol), so as mentioned, a different smaller sized MC would make sense. It will give you better "feel" and modulation but there is a small trade-off - it will also give you more lever freeplay. I recently put an 11mm MC on my '78 and while it has improved the "feel', I'm not crazy about all that added lever freeplay. I have a 1/2" (12.7mm) MC to try on my other 650. This is about half way between the 11 and stock 14. I'm hoping this may be the ideal compromise, better "feel" than the stock 14 but not as much lever travel as the 11.

If you research handlebar options, you will no doubt find my recommendation for the Euro bars. They are the best handlebar bend out there in my opinion, lower than either stock type but not too low. Also, the way the ends droop down slightly turns your wrists to a very natural and comfortable angle, providing you've mounted them correctly (rise in line with the fork tube angle). The drooped ends also allow an angled Special MC to mount up (almost level) and work OK.

And for the Euro bars, a commonly available 90cm long 1 piece line works perfectly .....

They can be had for as little as $5 off eBay .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/45-120mm-M..._trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&autorefresh=true

 

[member28833]

If you research handlebar options, you will no doubt find my recommendation for the Euro bars. They are the best handlebar bend out there in my opinion

Agree ! Be careful however to find the "Bike Master" bars which 5twins has, correct ?
And dont walk out the door with the "Emgo" brand Euros like I did before. The Emgo bars are a smidge narrower and just may sway you to bar end mirrors because of that.
-RT

 

[G_YamTech_314]

My first real ride on the XS. Some of you maybe wanted to see my face... (I'm a stud, I know...)

But the bike is much better looking. And sounding.

My uncle told me that when I felt the pipe he thought I was running on one cylinder. "That header should be hot to the touch almost immediately" thoughts on that anyone???

I should add that I did in fact ride the bike before properly warming it up... I got excited... It's a lesson I'm still trying hard to learn. It's one of the only times you will all see this happen.

 

[Jim]

My uncle told me that when I felt the pipe he thought I was running on one cylinder. "That header should be hot to the touch almost immediately" thoughts on that anyone???

Double walled headers take a little longer to get hot. Not positive, but I think your year has 'em.
Bike sounds a little rough, but it sounded like it was running on both cylinders.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Double walled headers take a little longer to get hot. Not positive, but I think your year has 'em.
Bike sounds a little rough, but it sounded like it was running on both cylinders.

By "rough" what do you mean? I agree it sounded rough before I got it moving and idling properly, but once it actually started moving I feel like it really cleared up. Tune up is incomplete, as I still want two new plugs, and some carb fine tuning... Other than how it kept shutting off and misfiring at the beginning I feel like once it was on the road it sounded alright. What does a healthy one sound like???

 

[Mailman]

Congratulations buddy! I know how exciting that first ride is! Now you be riding and sorting out the details, if your persistent that can happen pretty rapidly. I know with my ‘77D it was really rough when I first got it running and rideable. But now the areas that need attention will be more noticeable, for instance I didn’t realize how badly I needed steering head bearings until the first time I rode it, and brakes! Lol!
Great work so far, keep it up!

 

[Jim]

Other than how it kept shutting off and misfiring at the beginning

Yeah, that's what I was referring to.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Yeah, that's what I was referring to.

Good to know .I think it's safe to say that the carbs are gonna need an idle circuit overhaul. More testing required. Gonna add new spark plugs to the parts list, and research the heci outta the carb threads on here. I'll report back to database when I retrieve more evidence.

 

[azman857]

Enjoy the moment. It gets better and better,

 

[gggGary]

Always great to see one come back to life! Congrats Yamtec.
Yeah, meaningful tuning is impossible without air filters of some sort. I'm a curmudgeon but seriously believe in stock air boxes for the CV carbs.

 

[5twins]

It doesn't sound too bad. Most of these do require the choke for a cold start, even in warm weather. You needn't leave it on for long in warm weather, but you will need it. After it starts, I feed mine a couple quick little throttle blips to bump the RPMs up a bit and then the choke takes over and holds them there. After a short time running on choke (30 seconds maybe on a colder day, only 10 or so in warmer weather), the engine speed will drop a bit and begin to falter or stumble. This is my cue to flip the choke off but I will still need to keep it running by feeding in a small amount of throttle. This is pretty normal on an old carb equipped bike. The idle speed will be very low, to the point of stalling, when the bike is cold. It will increase and settle into the proper speed (1200 RPM) once the bike warms up.

When you do set your idle speed, you'll have to do so when the bike is fully warmed up. If you set it cold, the bike will idle too high once warm.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Went down to visit the Old Iron Beauty today, really wishing it were closer to me but for now my 25 minute drive to her is gonna have to continue. Was going to ride it today after a valve adjustment, and some other small tasks, but once I pulled the alternator cover off, and saw a master link on my chain with no clip on it I developed a bit more self control. Wiggled it back and forth and the chain fell apart. Really glad that didn't happen on the day of my maiden voyage... really should've inspected that when I installed the new clutch cable... Which also reminds me... I need advice on proper clutch cable routing. Seems to really only fit without binding one way, but the carbs have cut into the sleeve of my BRAND NEW CABLE Im making too many mistakes this time around. I gotta slow it down.
Took a bunch of pics, I'll be sure to post them in the next comment, along with questions I have... In other good news. My horn now operates semi properly, my valves are now at PROPER adjustment rather than all four valve clearances being at roughly .005 And I've become a bit more familiar with the wiring. Progress is slow but evident.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Now for the details.

The picture of my clutch cable... Does this look irreparable? Or can I doctor it with some tape, and proper routing? Please help...

Next up is the clutch pushrod seal. Chewed up from what looks like a thrown chain somewhere down the line in the bikes life... Cleaned it up to inspect for oil leaks next time I'm down there. Looked like it may have had fresh oil coming from it. Is this a MUST to replace? How much goes into that? And will a new one get torn if I don't have someone doctor up the case??

Some more evidence of a thrown chain... Chewed up the motor pretty bad. Not happy about it but hey, shit happens...

Is this scoring/gashing going to be detrimental to the bikes life? I don't see how it would be, but I wanna know what to do before buying parts...

Lastly, just some general questions. I overfilled it with oil by mistake. Thinking that maybe it would cycle through and some oil would sit in passages that wouldn't drain to the sump. I guess I was wrong. What are some ways you guys have of getting oil outta the motor without fully draining it? Or is it gonna be alright to run that way? I don't wanna risk too high of an oil pressure.

I also need to figure out which type of alternator cover gasket to buy for this thing, as I've learned that there were two different dowel pin locations over the years. Here's a pic of my cover.

I have the tumblers and springs off of my ignition switch in a bottle just for reference, but is there a way to save this stock switch? I wouldn't mind needing a new key or tumblers just wanted to know if there's anything that can be done...

I've got the clutch pushrod itself as an item in question. Do the shiny spots look normal to everyone here? I'm guessing it spins slightly when the motor runs dues to vibrations? Just wondering if this should all be replaced with the seal.

FINALLY, (I think) I noticed there's a bolt missing here... Anyone know the length and thread pitch needed for a proper replacement?

 

[ThatXS650Guy]

Looks like a 6 x 1.0 x 25 or so. Pull the one above and see if it works in the vacant hole and go from there.

 

[Mailman]

Hi Greasy!
You’re doing great! Bringing these old bikes back to life is a marathon not a sprint, so just be patient and methodical and face your tasks one at a time.

If you’ve never read my 60th birthday thread, where I restored my 77D, here is a link. It’s a long one but there is an index page right at the beginning for quick reference. I have done many of the same jobs you are facing.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/

Here is a jump start to where I did the clutch seal replacement , post number 107

http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/page-6#post-482411

The nick on your cable is superficial, there is a coiled steel inner liner, just under the rubber cover, you didn’t hurt it.

All the little nicks on the case surface from the chain also look to be superficial, that case is pretty thick.

The missing bolt on your starter cover, mine was missing one also and looked just as oily as yours. The easiest thing to do is remove another bolt and take it to a hardware store and just match it up.

Keep swinging buddy, you’re making progress!

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Looks like a 6 x 1.0 x 25 or so. Pull the one above and see if it works in the vacant hole and go from there.

Good idea... Gotta use my head and think a bit more before just asking questions haha. I guess it's good that I'm not afraid to ask questions. I need more confidence! Lol

 

[Mailman]

Some more light reading

http://www.xs650.com/threads/replacing-engine-seals-part-one-the-shifter-seal.52589/

http://www.xs650.com/threads/replacing-engine-seals-part-2-clutch-push-rod-seal.52590/

http://www.xs650.com/threads/engine-seal-replacement-part-3-crankshaft-seal-driveshaft-seal.52591/

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Hi Greasy!
You’re doing great! Bringing these old bikes back to life is a marathon not a sprint, so just be patient and methodical and face your tasks one at a time.

If you’ve never read my 60th birthday thread, where I restored my 77D, here is a link. It’s a long one but there is an index page right at the beginning for quick reference. I have done many of the same jobs you are facing.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/

Here is a jump start to where I did the clutch seal replacement , post number 107

http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/page-6#post-482411

The nick on your cable is superficial, there is a coiled steel inner liner, just under the rubber cover, you didn’t hurt it.

All the little nicks on the case surface from the chain also look to be superficial, that case is pretty thick.

The missing bolt on your starter cover, mine was missing one also and looked just as oily as yours. The easiest thing to do is remove another bolt and take it to a hardware store and just match it up.

Keep swinging buddy, you’re making progress!

How did you go about actually pulling the seal out? Do you need to drain the oil? Am I to chamfer/cut a smooth entrance for the new seal? My main concern is this chunky spot.

 

[Mailman]

Check out the second link above. Yes that nick , where it mashed the edge will have to be cleaned up a little. There is some oil behind that seal, but it’s not gonna dump the contents of your crankcase out, most of your oil is well below that.

Here is a very good how to from Gary. I think it’s the one I learned from.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/clutch-push-rod-seal-and-worm-gear-install-w-pics.26414/#post-262341

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Check out the second link above. Yes that nick , where it mashed the edge will have to be cleaned up a little. There is some oil behind that seal, but it’s not gonna dump the contents of your crankcase out, most of your oil is well below that.

Here is a very good how to from Gary. I think it’s the one I learned from.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/clutch-push-rod-seal-and-worm-gear-install-w-pics.26414/#post-262341

After pre-emptively asking I took a look at the seal removal posts. You make it look easy! I'm hoping the gouging isn't very deep on it. I'd hate to have to remove too much material... I suppose that's my only option... I'll sleep on it. For a few weeks...