Yam_Tech314's official build thread

@5twins, I'm not sure if you're following my hunt for the mystery washer, but I think I found it, and in studying the IPB's online, it looks like this picture has the flat bearing and thrust plates mixed up here... I could be wrong, but I'm mentioning it for some clarity on my hunt. I found two extra washers (they came with my new clutch basket which is why I believe I had a hard time finding where it belongs.)

I scanned my build thread to find your picture specifically, and cross referenced it with a parts fische. As @Jim stated, there WAS a washer on the OUTSIDE (clutch side) of the bearing on the input shaft. AKA the mystery washer. It matches the extra one I set aside for this reason...

Now the only question is: which is correct? Your picture? Or the parts fische?
 
OK, first that rubbing nut. From what I can see on a partially torn down motor I have sitting around, there is no washer used under that nut, and if there is one on there, it's very, very small and thin. If there, it's so small I can't even see it with the nut in place.

Now for your clutch assembly. You've left a washer out, that larger of the two leftovers you have. There should be two spacer washers between the inner and outer baskets, along with the flat radial bearing of course. Here's a good drawing .....

wfEBron.jpg


Forgot to add the quote. Oops.
 
Follow the pic above. Some of the parts diagrams are incorrect. They omit the washer marked in green above. You want/need two washers along with the radial bearing under the inner hub. The bearing needs to be sandwiched between two washers and you also need them to get the correct spacing. That "mystery" washer you're wondering about now is most likely the one marked in red above. Notice it goes on first. This is very important. It only makes contact with the case bearing's inner race. This spaces the whole clutch hub assembly away from the case so it doesn't rub.
 
Follow the pic above. Some of the parts diagrams are incorrect. They omit the washer marked in green above. You want/need two washers along with the radial bearing under the inner hub. The bearing needs to be sandwiched between two washers and you also need them to get the correct spacing. That "mystery" washer you're wondering about now is most likely the one marked in red above. Notice it goes on first. This is very important. It only makes contact with the case bearing's inner race. This spaces the whole clutch hub assembly away from the case so it doesn't rub.

Honestly (and this isn't to sound smarter than I am) I agree completely. From everything I tried today, your method pictured is the only way that works, and sandwiching the bearing between two washers is the ONLY way it can work, otherwise the bearing will be stressed and fail. Furthermore, the spacing only works correctly in the orientation you display. When done this way, I'm left with only one extra washer, and it is the red one you depict. That being said, I can confidently say I found the mystery washers home. As Jim stated, it belongs on the outside of the bearing, where it contacts only the inner race as you mentioned. Now I just need to assemble it in this orientation and I'll be all set! Thank you for your help way back when I did this the first time, and thanks for your help once again, reiterating something that obviously didn't stick the first time! :doh:
 
Good to know! The important thing is that I have enough washers in the clutch assembly to match 5twins picture above. Having that squared away made me feel a lot better about buttoning up the bottom end. I hope to get the can chain tensioners installed tonight, which requires cutting a link out of the chain. It may be a better idea to wait for the parts to cut the chain, but I just want to be able to button up the top end as soon as they come in, so I might do it sooner..

The boxes of parts are actually starting to be pretty empty. It's a good feeling. I've been careful to set everything out in front of me and make sure it's all there before starting, and even more careful to test functionality of each piece as I continue.

I'll be needing a torque wrench soon to button everything up properly. Just snugged the bottom end up by hand for now. Should be on a roll here this week though.
 
The boxes of parts are actually starting to be pretty empty. It's a good feeling. I've been careful to set everything out in front of me and make sure it's all there before starting, and even more careful to test functionality of each piece as I continue.

Maybe you do this already, but I found it very helpful when tackling an unfamiliar job, to take tons of photos both before and the during the disassembly process. I like to photograph the order of the pieces as they come off.
I have complete photo series of carburetors, clutch, ignition, engine and so on. I have well over a 1,000 photos stored in files on my computer that I still reference to this day. Just a thought. :thumbsup:
15DC80DA-334B-45ED-A33D-4267B3764D91.jpeg FE421C89-1D55-4ACB-A6A8-C3BA0452627B.jpeg
 
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The other way, bit late now, but as you dismantle things, put them together in order, put them on the shaft in the order they came off, or pass a bit of wire through a set components to keep them in order.

First time I dismantled an engine, I knew nuffin' but at least I knew I knew nuffin' so each set of components was then put in a freezer bag with a note of what it was & where it came from.

Don't recall ever dismantling anything after imbibing - joke, see #957.
 
First time I dismantled an engine, I knew nuffin' but at least I knew I knew nuffin' so each set of components was then put in a freezer bag with a note of what it was & where it came from.
You knew enough to use a systematic approach. Even us old hacks need a system...:sneaky:
The clutch outta my SG....

MVIMG_20180319_164416.jpg
 
I do indeed have everything labeled in their own bags, but I'll be doing my next build differently. @Mailman, I like your method much better! It makes it a breeze to pack up and take anywhere. This method would have been great for the machine shop, and great for the event that I'm moving before the bike is in one piece (which is likely with my girlfriends new job)

Either way, it's nice to see only a few boxes remain. They used to take up almost a whole wall of my garage. Now I'm down to seven boxes. Wow.

In other news, I got the cam chain carefully ground down, and pins successfully pressed out. New cam chain tensioner is installed, screws are tight (emphasis on the right part) and I'm ready for the rest of this build whenever the parts arrive. I'm wondering if it's a bad idea to pre install the pistons rings with assembly lube and insert them partially into the cylinder... I don't want to risk any rust rings, or weird joinery that could occur from them sitting around that way. I guess I just really want to be ready to slap it all together when the time comes. I need to be more patient.
 

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I'm wondering if it's a bad idea to pre install the pistons rings with assembly lube and insert them partially into the cylinder...
As long a everything has assembly lube on it and you bag it.... go for it.
 
Awesome.

I was reading up on some stuff in the manual, there were comments about which shim ring belongs top and bottom on the oil ring set... The manual mentions color coded rings, the replacement ring set I have doesn't have any color coding... Does it really matter that much?
 
Reread it carefully, they are probably talking about the top 2 rings on the piston. The ones above the oil rings.
Don't know about aftermarket pistons, but you can't swap 'em on OEM's. One's thicker than the other.
 
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Don't know about aftermarket pistons, but you can't swap 'em on OEM's. One's thicker than the other.

I noticed this the first time I was messing around with them.

Does anyone have any kind of truck they use to install the circlips, or do you all use the specialty circlip installer tool? I can't seem to find one I'm familiar with for a decent price. The ones I used in school must've been expensive...
 
Tinkering around with the new brake hardware I got in. Anxiously awaiting the rest of the parts for the motor...

I decided to think about where I wanted to put the rear brake reservoir... I found a spot that I think MIGHT work. It shares a home with the rear motor mount bolt (if it's allowed to stay)

I'm wondering if it's too close to the cylinder here... It's quite minimalistic if it works. The less brake lines I need to route, the cleaner it'll look.

What do we think? I'm thinking it's gonna be too close to the motor... Even if it fits, heat might be an issue. I may make a mounting plate that shares the through holes of that mount soni can mount it behind the frame tube. (I'd just need to be mindful that doing brake work to the reservoir would call for a torque wrench every time lol...)

Just brainstorming. Maybe (probably) you guys know something I don't. I'm open to suggestions.
 
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