Yam_Tech314's official build thread

[Jim]

If you can see metal flakes in the oil, it's most likely aluminum. If it were steel (or iron) it'd be stuck to the magnets, not suspended in the oil.
You'll likely still see 'em after you change the oil. What you want to see is less of 'em... and at every oil change until they're gone.

 

[jpdevol]

Some fine metallic particles may be normal, depending on what all was done. I'd be interested to know if it would stick to a magnet. Here's hoping....

After only 5 minutes of run-time, your plugs will normally be sooty: choke time and then not enough temperature to get them running clean, not up to operating temp. yet - so don't rejet just yet. Though it's a good idea to have a selection of jets on hand.

Starter ground cable ?, pulling starter motor to access terminal - ya lost me I also can't imagine the kill switch wiring melting a brake line: it normally would be the R/W wire on its own 10amp fuse, the switch wired in series between fuse block and coils.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Some fine metallic particles may be normal, depending on what all was done. I'd be interested to know if it would stick to a magnet. Here's hoping....

After only 5 minutes of run-time, your plugs will normally be sooty: choke time and then not enough temperature to get them running clean, not up to operating temp. yet - so don't rejet just yet. Though it's a good idea to have a selection of jets on hand.

Starter ground cable ?, pulling starter motor to access terminal - ya lost me I also can't imagine the kill switch wiring melting a brake line: it normally would be the R/W wire on its own 10amp fuse, the switch wired in series between fuse block and coils.

I'll show ya what I mean!

Pulled the four mounting bolts to try and just wiggle it enough to get the nut out from between the post and the frame, but ended up just pulling the starter... That's how I discovered fine metal particles in the oil.

It needed replaced because the one I built was temporary...

 

[jpdevol]

Thanks! So (terminology being important) that is the not the "starter ground lead" it is the positive cable from the solenoid. The starter motor is grounded via its case, engine, etc. It normally can be removed/replaced with the motor in-place

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Thanks! So (terminology being important) that is the not the "starter ground lead" it is the positive cable from the solenoid. The starter motor is grounded via its case, engine, etc. It normally can be removed/replaced with the motor in-place

Ah jeez... Ya got me there. I ran black cables... Should've looked harder for a red cable cover. I'll have to fix that so I save myself some confusion in the future

 

[jpdevol]

Red cables would be preferable IMO, but I think some red shrink-wrap at each end would be proper too. Carries up to 100A, I think should be 6ga, but 8ga on a short run is ok

I think the OEM boots, at least early ones were black

 

[G_YamTech_314]

So I ordered a new MotionPro throttle tube, throttle cable, and clutch perch and lever. Im also going to try and get my rear brake system finished. all it really needs is fluid, bled, and the most important part: the hose leading from reservoir to rear brake M/C. I did a search on the forum to see what I could find, and I came up short. I measure an outer diameter of .383" at the reservoir and .402" at the master cylinder... In metric terms, thats 9.6ish MM ID. the rest of the rear brake system is totally built and brand new. pads, rotors, calipers, lines, you name it. this is the final piece to the puzzle and its in hiding.

 

[Wingedwheel]

I’ve had a couple XS’s that had that same problem getting the starter cable off because the stud on the starter was out too far. I just clipped the terminal where it would slide over the bolt once the thread was loosened. I also never checked to see if that stud could be adjusted. Anybody ever do that?

 

[Kevin Werner]

Good idea. If I find metal flakes I'll cry. This is a FRESH build... Here's to hoping.

I think maybe on a fresh build you will expect those tiny particles. Skirts and rings break in etc. I don't know if it is a bad idea, on YOUR fresh build to dump the cheap oil every time you start it up as you work through your jetting. When you get your pilots close you will rid 5 or 10 mile seeing what you got and open the carbs up for a change. Dump the oil. I hope for your sake that every time you dump the oil there is less and less and finally almost no tiny glitter there. Cheers

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I think maybe on a fresh build you will expect those tiny particles. I don't know if it is a bad idea, on YOUR fresh build to dump the cheap oil every time you start it up as you work through your jetting. When you get your pilots close you will rid 5 or 10 mile seeing what you got and open the carbs up for a change. Dump the oil. I hope for your sake that every time you dump the oil there is less and less and finally almost no tiny glitter there. Cheers

I've got high hopes and a lot of confidence in the whole build aside from MAYBE the rings being in upside down lol. But I think it's fine. I'm thinking the smoke is from a rich condition. Otherwise I'd smell oil in the exhaust and I do not. They look like regular break in particles. No chunks so as long as it's microscopic particles I'm happy.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

For anyone still following, or wondering... I got EPDM brake reservoir hose that measures .313" I.D. which should be PERFECT for the reservoir to M/C. I bought 5ft of it and it cost $20 after shipping.

Found it on SUMMIT Racing's website.

Here's the link if anyone else is in need of interested in stocking up for future replacement hose.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/TIL-74-214

 

[G_YamTech_314]

As I stated earlier this week on another thread, I felt guilty pulling parts off the XS650 Build for the Silverwing. To make myself feel better I purchased new switches for the handlebars from MiksXS. They look and feel really nice, so I'm hoping they will work for a long long time. I'm not sure how anyone would be able to tell the difference between one of these and a true factory switch to be honest...

Now the hard/fun part... Finding the manual and diagrams for '76 and '78 since I have a newer front end on mine. I'll have to probably build a few of my own connectors, but as long as it works as intended I will hopefully have a bike with a working horn, headlight, and starter with the buttons that properly control them all by late Saturday night! That'll make me feel a lot better about having the poor xs in the corner for so long!

Speaking of the XS being in the corner... I still took a step backwards despite trying to keep my progress going in a forward direction... Today when I went to pull her out of the corner the weight shifted away from me faster than I expected it to, and it fell away from me (gently) resting against the corner of a slop sink on my back porch... It out a small crease in the side of the tank and I am pretty sad about it... There were already dents in the tank when I originally purchased it, but I had my uncle do the body work on it and get them filled/removed. Now there's another one that needs work... I'm just glad it hasn't seen paint yet.

Two steps forward, one step back. Progress is slow. But it's here now...

 

[Jim]

Two steps forward, one step back. Progress is slow. But it's here now...

You'll get there.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Im trying to write up two separate switch circuit diagrams for differing years (76, and 78)

Im not YET sure on how many changes were made to the wiring of the switches from year to year, but I am CERTAIN that the 76 only had 7 wires coming from the left hand switch.
pink (horn) the body of the switch grounds to the bars which acts as ground for the circuit(?)
Dark Green (right flashers)
Br/W (flasher relay wire)
"Ch" (left flashers)
Yellow (High Beam)
Light Blue -- Dimmer Switch (main constant power?)
Green (Low Beam)

the switch I purchased from Mikes has 11 different wires...
Dark Green (Right Flashers)
Ch (Left Flashers)
Yellow (High Beam)
Black (Ground?)
Light green (reserve lighting connector for SOMETHING?) according to 78 diagram the reserve lighting is part of the 6 pin connector.
the 6 remaining wires are in a 6 pin plug
L/Y
L/G
Y/B
Pink (Horn maybe?)
Br/W
Y/R

my plan is to retrofit the switch to my new remanufactured wiring harness (designed for a 76 I do believe... ill have to look back at stuff and see what year I put on the bike... what a nightmare that might become.

I guess my hope is that Ill be able to snip and cap the unnecessary wiring (if I can) if not, maybe it belongs somewhere, or maybe its just not at all compatible like I thought it would be... Surely Ill figure that out before cutting into it... otherwise Ill be returning it and trying for a NOS switch for the left hand side...

 

[Jim]

Look at it this way... you have 4 more wires than you need on the new switch. That's much preferable to not having enough wires.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Look at it this way... you have 4 more wires than you need on the new switch. That's much preferable to not having enough wires.

very good point. the only annoying part about that is if there were any color changes between the years, so far things seem to match up, but I've learned a thing or two about electrical since I've worked at the dealer... made a few stupid mistakes, and a few bigger mistakes. I havent fried any ECU's but ive come damn close. I tread carefully these days. Ill be able to set it all up pretty quick once ive taken the time to study the diagrams thoroughly. not sure theres any wires in these harnesses that carry less than 12 volts, or any loads that use less than 12 for that matter... but Id rather not find that out the hard way haha

 

[Jim]

not sure theres any wires in these harnesses that carry less than 12 volts, or any loads that use less than 12 for that matter... but Id rather not find that out the hard way haha

Fwiw... it's just switches in there, no snake's. Worst case you'll blow a fuse and say oops...
Don't see any way really that you could fry anything the switch feeds.

 

[MaxPete]

Im trying to write up two separate switch circuit diagrams for differing years (76, and 78)

Im not YET sure on how many changes were made to the wiring of the switches from year to year, but I am CERTAIN that the 76 only had 7 wires coming from the left hand switch.
pink (horn) the body of the switch grounds to the bars which acts as ground for the circuit(?)
Dark Green (right flashers)
Br/W (flasher relay wire)
"Ch" (left flashers)
Yellow (High Beam)
Light Blue -- Dimmer Switch (main constant power?)
Green (Low Beam)

the switch I purchased from Mikes has 11 different wires...
Dark Green (Right Flashers)
Ch (Left Flashers)
Yellow (High Beam)
Black (Ground?)
Light green (reserve lighting connector for SOMETHING?) according to 78 diagram the reserve lighting is part of the 6 pin connector.
the 6 remaining wires are in a 6 pin plug
L/Y
L/G
Y/B
Pink (Horn maybe?)
Br/W
Y/R

my plan is to retrofit the switch to my new remanufactured wiring harness (designed for a 76 I do believe... ill have to look back at stuff and see what year I put on the bike... what a nightmare that might become.

I guess my hope is that Ill be able to snip and cap the unnecessary wiring (if I can) if not, maybe it belongs somewhere, or maybe its just not at all compatible like I thought it would be... Surely Ill figure that out before cutting into it... otherwise Ill be returning it and trying for a NOS switch for the left hand side...

Hi YamTech:

I also bought those switches (both sides) and a new wiring harness from MikesXS and found them to be absolutely excellent on my 1976 XS650C. All of the original electrics on the bike were totally roached - the switches were full of mud and the metal parts were corroded or absent.

Anyhow, I also had the same dilemma about the wiring and so I simply sat at the kitchen table with a BEvERage and a voltmeter and tested each lead and made notes about what each one did - in relation to the wiring on the bike. So, just sit down with a cheap voltmeter set on "ohms" (the horseshoe-looking symbol) and just start moving the switches around while you touch the various wires. You cannot hurt anything doing this.

I am sorry that I cannot find my notes, but it all worked out well and I have had zero problems with my controls wiring for about 5 years.

Pete

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Hi YamTech:

I also bought those switches (both sides) and a new wiring harness from MikesXS and found them to be absolutely excellent on my 1976 XS650C. All of the original electrics on the bike were totally roached - the switches were full of mud and the metal parts were corroded or absent.

Anyhow, I also had the same dilemma about the wiring and so I simply sat at the kitchen table with a BEvERage and a voltmeter and tested each lead and made notes about what each one did - in relation to the wiring on the bike. So, just sit down with a cheap voltmeter set on "ohms" (the horseshoe-looking symbol) and just start moving the switches around while you touch the various wires. You cannot hurt anything doing this.

I am sorry that I cannot find my notes, but it all worked out well and I have had zero problems with my controls wiring for about 5 years.

Pete

This is a really good idea.
I shouldve thought to bring my voltmeter home from work, but I'm pretty confident with the research that I did lastnight. I also found in the boxes laying around, the old switch that actually worked on the bike when I was doing my heat cycles. I got the throttle cable already mounted, and the throttle and right hand switch ready to rock and roll. now I just need to plug in what needs plugged in, and do some testing.
should be fun.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Did some fiddling around and got the switches mounted. I also got the throttle cable mounted and routed in a way that I believe will work as a final set up. I'll need to change the grip out and get a matching set of some that make it look a little more modern but that's the least of my concerns at the moment.

Usually in the past I'd hear a relay click on when turning the main switch to on. This would also give me power to the coils and I could run the engine for my heat cycles. I knew it was a temporary set up so I just ran what I needed to and went with it. Now that I've got all that I need I can't seem to get anything to go my way. I have power to my main fuse and I know that for a fact because the red light comes on... Come to think of it... I wonder if that light only comes on when the main fuse is blown... ANYWAYS.

Assuming that's NOT the case... I have the battery on a tender overnight, and I'm going to bring my meter home from work tomorrow to see if I can get some things dialed in.

I'm also gonna bring a few fuses back with me... Ya know... Just in case.