Yam_Tech314's official build thread

[G_YamTech_314]

I've considered it. If I hadn't already had the stock headlight bucket painted to match the frame, and hadn't already purchased replacement stock grommets and signal mounting hardware I would. I found a good enough chrome pair sitting around to slap on once I order the rubbers and stuff for it. It's sat in pieces many times before. What's a few more weeks...

 

[jetmechmarty]

Do you have OE ball bearings or tapered roller bearings on the steering stem? If they’re tapered rollers, you’ll have extra space to take up with washers or o’rings or…

 

[member43148]

If they’re tapered rollers, you’ll have extra space to take up with washers or o’rings or…

Apparently it depends on the tapered bearings sourced. The 79 front end pic I provided requires nothing extra as the spacing is surprisingly very good as shown.
I wasn’t expecting that after reading other threads regarding tapered roller bearing replacement.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I guess I got lucky too. I messed with some paint stripper and got the black paint off without fudging the chrome entirely.

Not sure where I thought I was going with black. Chrome looks way better.

The spacing is tight and the hardware ain't right but no one is ever going to notice that except me. At this point, as much as it fought me, I'm good with it til I need to do something about it in the future.

 

[Jim]

Do you have OE ball bearings or tapered roller bearings on the steering stem? If they’re tapered rollers, you’ll have extra space to take up with washers or o’rings or…

Was expecting that when I put the '80SG front end back together. All Balls tapered rollers. Everyone said you'd need to shim the fork ears. Didn't need to. Everything fit about perfect.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Aside from that debauchery I did manage to install another brand new front M/C. It works way better than the previous one I took off of it to use on the GL500 I sold.

The front end needs signals, a headlight, gauges, and wired up completely and I can move on from it for (hopefully) a very long time.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I'm taking my time and studying the wiring diagrams while trying to bring one piece to working order at a time. I'm STARTING with my STARTER. Lol.

I can jump the solenoid to engage the starter, but no matter what I do my start button doesn't activate the starter. If I can bridge the solenoid and it does the thing... It's probably not the problem... Right?

By the looks of the diagram, theoretically I can put either lead on either post. Because all it's doing is moving 12v from battery side to the starter side. Correct me if I'm wrong on that.

The button being pressed is not powered, but rather supplying ground for the coil in the solenoid to close the gap and power the starter..?

When I continuity tested the blue/white wire to ground it beeps.

The red/white wire is plugged in, and is used for the Killswitch. It ALSO makes my meter beep at me when I test continuity to ground... Shouldn't that only beep when the switch is in the off position?

I'm really having a hard time with it because of the wiring harness being an aftermarket one. There are certain plugs that a 78 would have that a 76 doesn't. But most of it is easily cross referenced. I have diagrams for both models. I'm just having a hard time diagnosing why my starter won't turn when I press the button.

Starter is ground by being mounted to the engine yes?

Solenoid is ground by being mounted to the battery box...?

I'm probably doing something wrong. As usual. But here we are.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

I am suspect of the safety relay being bad. But I'm not sure how to test it. After writing it all down and double checking I'm certain the starter is ground by mounting to motor.

I'm also certain that the blue/white wire grounds out the safety relay to close the switch and provide the same service for the solenoid... If I can jump the solenoid but the switch does nothing then I'm forced to suspect the safety relay. Might remove it and see what it's got goin on. I can see corrosion on it so I'm thinking I'm on the right track.

 

[Jim]

I can jump the solenoid to engage the starter, but no matter what I do my start button doesn't activate the starter. If I can bridge the solenoid and it does the thing... It's probably not the problem... Right?

Correct... "probably" not.

When I continuity tested the blue/white wire to ground it beeps.

It should only go to ground when you press the start button.

The red/white wire is plugged in, and is used for the Killswitch. It ALSO makes my meter beep at me when I test continuity to ground... Shouldn't that only beep when the switch is in the off position?

Depends. There's other stuff in that power line that's active.

Starter is ground by being mounted to the engine yes?

Yes

Solenoid is ground by being mounted to the battery box...?

Nope. solenoid "floats Neither the leads to activate it, or the battery to starter leads go to ground.

 

[Jim]

4 leads to the solenoid:

Batt in: From the battery , obviously.
Batt out: Goes to starter.
Power in: (small connector) Yes, this power comes from the safety relay I think that's either red or red/white. (Sorry, don't have a schematic open at the moment. I will shortly.)
Power out/Ground side: This is the blue or blue/white wire that goes to the start button. The start button provides the ground.

 

[Jim]

Before I get confused (easily done), what year is your bike?
Is the harness for the same year?

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Heres the safety relay. Looking might chuddy.

The battery box should be where this guy grounds to right? I'm gonna scrape a better portion of the paint away to give it a better ground but I'm thinking the thing is due for replacement either way.

If I'm only supposed to hear a beep when the starter button is pressed, then I may wanna dig deeper into that...

 

[Jim]

My bad, you're likely getting the beep because the other end feeds all the way back to power. Turn the beeper off!!
From here on out I'll, or someone else that jumps in will ask you what the resistance is or the voltage is. Those are more helpful than beeps.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Before I get confused (easily done), what year is your bike?
Is the harness for the same year?

The bike is a 76. It's been awhile so I'm not certain on the harness but I think the harness is for a 78. The bike has a 78 or newer front end and iggy switch. It's kind of a hodge podge mess but I was working with what I had

 

[Jim]

That pic is the rectifier, not the safety relay. Yes, you need to replace it... but later, it's got nothing to do with the starter.

 

[Jim]

The bike is a 76. It's been awhile so I'm not certain on the harness but I think the harness is for a 78. The bike has a 78 or newer front end and iggy switch. It's kind of a hodge podge mess but I was working with what I had

You're not makin' this easy are you....

 

[G_YamTech_314]

When I go from battery ground strap to blue/white solder joint directly on the solenoid I get 10.2ohms. this is with the solenoid blue/white wire DISCONNECTED from the harness and no leads connected.

 

[G_YamTech_314]

That pic is the rectifier, not the safety relay. Yes, you need to replace it... but later, it's got nothing to do with the starter.

Gosh... It actually works then. Because it does just fine charging my battery. I know that for a fact. Already tested that...

 

[Jim]

When I go from battery ground strap to blue/white solder joint directly on the solenoid I get 10.2ohms. this is with the solenoid blue/white wire DISCONNECTED from the harness and no leads connected.

You sure it's not 10.2k ohms?
Your fingers off the leads?
Can your girlfriend snap a pic of you testing it? (that's a joke, but not really... being able to see what you're doing would really help)

 

[G_YamTech_314]

Black lead directly to frame ground

Red lead directly touching the blue/white wire at the block of the solenoid.

Meter set to Ω. I get a direct reading of 7.5Ω